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  1. Today
  2. Have 50 lbs of Halibut? Yards. www.car-part.com Left or right side or both? Pic would be nice. I could pull them for you. Larry
  3. It should be doable - if it uses the speedo cable that’ll sort a major hurdle. If it requires a speed sensor it will need more wiring added to make this work. The rest should be repinning as needed. Don’t worry about the height sensor indicators. You could probably look up what resistance will show low and high, then pick what ride height you want to see all the time and wire that in. It’s a super cool looking instrument cluster! We didn’t get anything like that over here - not even in the Vortex range. Maybe us Aussies weren’t 80’s enough to handle a digital cluster of that era (we got the MY touring wagons with digital clusters so go figure…), I doubt it though.
  4. Not having a charcoal canister with the purge control still in use makes sense. From what I understand of this setup is the charcoal canister collects vapour from the fuel tank vent system which is then burnt off in the cylinders when the ECU determines the right conditions are present - usually a cruise and light load revs. No charcoal canister means no vapours which is effectively just sucking air and leaning out the fuel mixture. Add in a faulty valve that could be open all the time and you get your stumbling revs/misfire like running symptoms.
  5. My 83 and 84 both came with canisters... didn't know they ever had non-historic ones without them. For my ej22 swap, I hooked the diaphragm on the canister valve to constant vacuum, so it's always open (the stock setup had it going to venturi vacuum on the carb, where it controls the amount of purge), then hooked the purge solenoid to the purge line from the valve, so it works like a stock ej22 setup using the stock ea81 canister.
  6. O'reilly's rebuilt CVs are a crapshoot. I've gotten 1,000 to 50,000 miles out of them. Certainly never 200,000. Also, last I asked, they were NLA. What someone told me is that the rebuild shops regrind them, but not re-case-harden them, and their life expectancy has a lot to do with how much hardening is left. The first time they get rebuilt, you get 50,000 miles. The second time.... I repack my wheel bearings every time I do CVs, which is every couple years on average... and I've had them go out on two cars now. Front right of my daily driver started growling about two months ago... got the bearings, but no time to change them.
  7. It’s plumbed to the vapor line. I just picked up the brat and drove it home, running good, not a hiccup. My guess now is that the lack of charcoal canister anywhere in the loop caused the purge to be too laden with rich vapor. I’ll be searching for the 2000 Impreza 2.2 in-tank fuel loop parts to learn more about what the engine design originally wanted to be delivered by the purge valve, but for now, I’m happy to have the better behavior. Has anyone added a charcoal canister to this ‘85 swap with the late model 2.2? That seems like an option to learn from. Or I could hunt the u-pull for another purge valve, that engine isn’t too common around New Mexico. Plus, I don’t think the current valve is bad. It might be pulsing too much? I’ll do the resistance test on it as Benny suggests.
  8. Yesterday
  9. The socket for the front turn signal is defective, won't make consistent contact with the bulb. The socket unplugs from the harness, but I can't find a replacement. Does anyone have a source for that? It takes an 1156 single filament bulb on one end, and has two prongs to plug into the wiring harness connector on the other.
  10. From my research, Germany and Holland are the countries with highest numbers fo Suabrus on the roads in Europe. Does anyone know who is well stocked with Subaru spares in DE or NL? I am in EU (Italy), so no problem shipping from there Had collision damage recently, the other driver's insurance is covering but they insist on using new parts (rear bumper and tailights) which i have trouble finding in Italy your help is welcome!
  11. And it still makes 200psi? Wow. I'm impressed. I'm pretty stumped by this. All 4 cylinders? I was thinking stuck injector, but it would be strange to be all 4. I know you know this, but I'm brainstorming. The injectors are pretty simple. One wire is constant power from the ignition relay. I can't think of a likely failure mode on either side of that that would cause more fueling. But also would require some seriously bunk input information for the ECU to actually command that much fuel. And even then, I would think it would throw a DTC and override to open loop "limp mode". I guess you could unplug the MAF, then you would know it's open loop, and see what that does. But it seems far more likely that it's something mechanical. A leaky or stuck injector, a hose connected incorrectly.
  12. With pcv disconeted still burns oil i let it run for several minutes incase of residual the cylinder walls were honed when when the rings were put in and the rings were gapped but it seemed like it only worked for 300 miles before starting to smoke bad I think Ill either tear it down and do rings again and measure everything to make sure its in speck or grab a junkyard short block to through in thanks you all for your ideas
  13. Any chance we can get a fresh link to download Accesstuner or your maps? I have a 2016 WRX. EGR/TGV delete too 😫 Thanks!
  14. I did some more digging and it's apparently just an indication of what transmission and emissions system the ECU is set up for. It's a non-trouble code. :]
  15. The only “code” you should have is the one that states what market it was sold in. Eg here in Australia we have seven short flashes from memory. In my experience without starting the engine you shouldn’t have any codes to begin with.
  16. Apologies, I thought all bajas were turbo for some reason. I’ve only ever seen one in person when I was in the states in 2009, even then that was in traffic on the Las Vegas strip so not an up close for a good look over it. I’m out of ideas. If the re-ring was done properly I can’t see where it would be potentially sucking oil in to be smokey and consume oil. We’re all rings replaced and were they gapped correctly?
  17. The cylinder head compression tell you whether you need new velpro gaskets. Less than 140 psi and you should replace. Wheel bearings can be stuffed to the max with synthetic grease every time you replace a cv joint and you will go forever on them. The water pump has a special height to the pulley so pay attention to that. You have periodically make sure the timing belts are tight by loosening the two bolts for each and allowing the springs to tighten up the belt. Do it every 5000 miles. The water pump has a hole in the top and a hole in the bottom. Plug the top hole up with a gasket maker otherwise dirt will get to the bearings and you will be back to replacing it every 15,000 to 25,000 miles, instead of 40,000 or more. Rebuilt CV axles last 200,000 miles from O'Reillys. Don't waste your rebooting them because they are going to start clicking soon thereafter. Nowadays, the only suppliers for cables is the aftermarket parts from your favorite parts store. Subaru stopped making them. U-pull-it has lots of parts, when you can find the cars there. But Facebook is your best place to find a car that you can get parts off of.
  18. Can I get a link to where you got it? I looked up PEC Australia and can't find the struts part. Please I'm desperate for these font struts.
  19. Another bit of info. We used custom made headgaskets from Cometic. Cant remember the exact thickness, but they were made thicker for future NA/T application.
  20. I have a Subaru order in for a rad cap and some other cooling components. The water pump is on back order, potentially on it's way to being discontinued instead of restocked. I'm going to check back in with the dealership tomorrow and see what's backordered and what isn't. I occasionally do drive out that direction, actually had a friend move out there last year. Goal is to get the cooling system resolved and install the weber carb kit I have on the shelf. Then if I can get the brakes working I'll take it for a lap around the block.
  21. Engine's in, most of the small bits and bobs are done. Not out of the woods yet. Tonight I was using the test connector trick to run my fuel pump. I wanted to prime the system and check my fuel lines for leaks before I add a hot running engine to the equation. When I was priming the system, I noticed the injector was firing. Is this normal? I knew when you have all 3 test connectors (SPFI engine) connected, it ran the fuel pump. However I don't know if the injector firing at the same time is normal or not. Additionally I pulled the codes while I was at it and I only got code 5. I believe I remember reading somewhere that this is one of those codes that means nothing and goes away when the engine fires up. It's not mentioned in the FSM. Any ideas on what specifically this code means? Is it just an indication of what "mode" the ECU is in? Like it's saying "this is an SPFI engine with a manual transmission". Thanks :]
  22. Last week
  23. For testing, unplug the pcv hose to the intake and block off the port. That way you can rule out pcv related oil consumption. Did you have pictures of the cylinder walls before replacing the rings? If it was smooth and lost the crosshatching, chances are the new rings won't break in properly.
  24. Sold my '89 parts wagon roughly three plus years ago. Via a Denver craigslist ad, yep it took forever. Young man from Ruidoso came down and bought both the Wagon, and the spare 49K mile EA-82 engine assembly in two separate trips. Don't recall his name, possibly "Wyatt" but he's Subaru Kid to me. I could see if I have his contact information in one of my older phones. Am guessing he's on Social Media, am not on those platforms yet.
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