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Camber adjustment, improved Ackermann angle (if you use EJ front knuckles), 100s of front strut/spring options (rear shocks don't change with the 5-lug, but are a pretty simple design so there are options there). dozens of brake options, front and rear. Wheel/tire options. Might not seem like much, but makes a huge difference. Of course, a better torque curve (EJ engine) and real AWD help a LOT, too.

does seem like torque bind. Try tight circles without, then with fuse in place. Let us know results. tell us about your tires, they must be identical - not just same size, same brand/model as well. Also, is the car new to you? could it have had a trans or rear diff replaced?

Nice score dude. I have an 85, but I have updated her all the way around. If she is running good, drive her as long as you can and start saving and acquiring Ej stuff to swap over. More parts and more power, better driving, in my opinion. I have a whole front clip, "legacy struts and engine mount" with a 4" lift on my Brat. I have the 2.2T in mine. Close to firing her off. I took the original brat motor and transferred her into my 88 Rx. I have always like how reliable the ea-81 is, bummer you can't get engine parts for her anymore. No more oil pumps. So drive her until she quits, or change to the ea-82, or better an Ej engine. They only lack power and ground clearance.

I haven't tested those specifically, but I would guess they are probably quite a bit better. The impetus for switching was the obvious cost savings in using a domestically produced (Canada IIRC) filter over huge numbers of shipping containers full of bulky, lightweight oil filters being shipped here constantly from Japan at high cost plus shipping. What's really telling about this situation is that Subaru of Japan has not certified the "blue" filters for use on the FA's yet. The dealers are required to use the fat Tokyo Roki filters for those models. I imagine eventually they will get some blue garbage for them instead so the dealers can make fat profits off the cheap blue Fram. GD

Check the oil pressure switch for a leak - that's on top of the engine? Diagnose: 1. clean it 2. watch where leaks emanate from. You're looking at decades of previous spills, leaks, work, grime, dirt, spills...guessing isn't generally advisable here. =valve covers never leak "up" on top of the engine.

I did my EJ conversion while at uni. I searched for parts on my holidays, did my research of wiring etc between assignments then put it all together in my final year over the mid year holidays If you retain the factory gearbox you'll need an adaptor plate and get used to spinning the front wheels off the line if you're not careful! Or swap in the EJ AWD box, but lose the dual range in your case due to USDM AWD EJ boxes only being single range. Really though, getting the wiring cut down and working correctly is the biggest hurdle in this conversion in my opinion. Cheers Bennie

So I'm guessing auto as you haven't definitively said so. If this is the case ignore my post as this only applies to manuals from the L series - I thought yours may have had a gearbox conversion done. Best of luck getting your ride sorted! Cheers Bennie

Thanks to everyone. Need to get her in good running order before the end of september. Heres a pic if you guys are interested. Shes a little rough but only 92k miles.

I would take care of the switch first. Everything may be working normally - you just didn't have it in 4WD long enough to tell. If you hold the button, or tape / tie it down, you could verify if the 4WD engages.

seems to me that there is a need to look elsewhere. Although losing power steering fluid from the pump would possible distribute it mainly across the right side of the engine especially at high speeds I believe that the loss of 1 quart of oil every 600 miles would have me looking somewhere else before I attempted to purchase a now PS pump. Personally I've never seen a valve cover distribute leaked oil in the manner described. I should also add that I've never seen the seal at the block halfs leak either . That doesn't mean it doesn't happen but I have never seen it I'm sure there are others with more Subaru experience than me though. wish I had more to offer

3AT is the number for 3 speed automatic transmission. If the button is like those on my newer ones, 86 and up- they are supposed to be alternate action switches. Press and stay down. Press again, stay up. 4WD active when down.

Problem solved and I can hardly believe what was the problem... I get to the dealership and my friend takes the car for a test drive and he can hear nothing. So I get in the car with him and eventually he can hear the ping sound but very faintly yet can't distinguish where it's coming from. Next, one of the girls at the dealership gets in the car with me on my request, because I read somewhere that women hear things differently than guys do, and she hears the pings from the back seat but thinks it's coming from the front of the vehicle and not from the back where the wheel was hit and so as I'm listening to it closer I now agree with her. Next, a tech gets into the back seat and he can hear the pings too and thinks it's coming from the front wheel too, so now we are all in agreement it's coming from the front drivers side area. The car is put up on the hoist and the front wheel won't make the ping noise when turned and nothing is looking like it's catching on anything. The tech then brings the car down and gets into the front seat and takes the car off on his own. He comes back with a big smile on his face saying that he's figured it out and it's "coming from the door" and starts to swing open and shut the driver's side door and something's banging around inside so we take the door apart. The metal rod connecting to the lock mechanism had come apart, so when taking fast left turns it would hit once against the metal inside the door but couldn't hit anything metal when swinging in the opposite direction taking right turns. I'm so happy that it wasn't anything major with the suspension. I'm also very happy that the problem was figured out before the fob stopped working or the car alarm went off and then the key in the driver's side door wouldn't work to open the door or to shut off the alarm which would have undoubtedly been at minus 40C in winter!

yes

If you change the PS pump make sure you change the O-Ring under the Tank (shown in the image below 34488 and 34487) assuming it has the tank on top of the pump. May be easy to get one from a pull and pay (check for evidence of leaking before pulling it). Part Numbers here: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1996_Legacy-L-Sedan-22L-AT-4WD/_54100_6027963/OIL-PUMP-OIL-TANK/B11-348-02.html

Is it the 3at? If so you have to very carefully disassemble the shifter and the switch the there is a small pin in the switch that needs to be filed carefully to remove the wear. It is a brass pin about a quarter of an inch long and about 1/8th of an inch around. You may have to source another shifter if you can't repair the switch. Once that is fixed if it still does not work check the fuse then you are left with the 4wd engagement solenoid on the side of the transmission.

had me stumped for months if not a year till i was talking to some one and put me on the right track i hope this helps someone cause no one eles has heard of this before everyone just says plugs and wires whitch is the first thing i thought also

Check the power and vacuum to the solenoids to ensure they're working properly. Also check the switch as it sounds like it's not engaging in the on position. Cheers Bennie

The XT6 5 stud hub swap doesn't do much for suspension other than change the front strut to EJ for the bigger brakes. Two reasons for this swap 1) wider rim selection becomes available and 2) you get the EJ brakes which means just about anything from the first liberty to the wrx and early sti (pre PCD change). as for the springs, heavier usually gives a little bit of lift but at the same time you lose some compression unless you're carrying a heavier load. The Honda springs go well unloaded. I'm now looking into IFS prado springs/shocks as the next piece of kit out the back. I might end up just using the Honda springs with the prado shocks - I'm not sure until I get the prado shocks and have a play. Cheers Bennie

PS pump.

Installed this guy with the help of the forum. $30 off amazon for the unit. Also got the faceplate, harness, and an antenna extender off of there.

I am reading this and am assuming you are referring to 1st and 2nd gen ej22e heads? and if so, does it use the composite or MLS head gaskets?