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There is no center diff. It is just 2wd or 4wd not AWD.

mismatched tires or using 4wd on the wrong terrain (or both) 4wd is only for use in slippery or loose traction. And do not try to turn tightly in 4wd even in hard pack and gravel, use 3 point or 5 point to turn around. Disengage 4wd BEFORE you exit slippery terrain. Rolling very slow in straight line. BEFORE you get to any pavement or hard pack. sometimes it is needed to roll back and forth but always in straight line and still while on the loose surface, be it dirt, mud, snow, sand ect.

85 dual range with ej22 swap

Got this car for free it's extremely rusty, but I think it'll be a great trail rig. I'm already a couple months into the build and it should be ready for the trails real soon. My first subaru was a 1991 Loyale 5 Speed 4x4 I picked up for $675. The two following years it received a 2" lift, 29 inch tires, a 5 speed dualrange swap, a welded rear diff and an EJ22 swap. The entire driveline was donated to the brat. I'm hoping to get the loyale running again with the stock EA82 and 5 speed pushbutton 4WD. I also had a red Loyale for about a year. What's been done to the BRAT 4/3 inch homebrew lift EA82 Front End Front to back tube chassis Ej22 Swap 5 Speed Dualrange Welded Rear Diff Rock Sliders Rear shock hoops Fuel Cell EA81/EA82 hybrid rear axles to name a few... This is it's current condition. Updated as of October 26 2018 This whole build was done with just an angle grinder, bandsaw, and a welder in the garage. My Loyale Pictures from the previous owner. Originally a New Mexico car. Rusted to spoob and the pictures don't do justice. I had to drive 2 hours to San Diego to pick it up and used 2 triple A tows to get it home. At least it had a clean title. Engine ran, but only on 3 cylinders. No power. I think that engine was toast. Mileage was unknown. Finally got it home, at least he left the cyclops light grille and a fairly complete interior. Exterior wise everything was missing Flat towed it to the DMV to register it. Over the next few months I started to collect all the missing exterior parts. Here is what it looked like after I got all the parts. MINT jump seats and headrests!!! Stole the EJ22/Harness, 5 Speed dualrange, driveshaft, and welded rear diff courtesy of the Loyale But before I could put any of those parts in, I wanted to change over to EA82 front suspension as it is superior, wider track, and has power steering. The EA82 front crossmember was wider, so I had to offset the holes on the lift blocks. Then the blocks got linked together with DOM tubing. Finally the EA82 front suspension was on minus the front lift blocks. The whole front suspension was scavenged from an 85 GL. All the EA81 front suspension was ripped out. I was doing a 4/3 Inch lift and the subframe for the front was dropped 4 inches. You can see here how the subframe block holes are offset. I think around an inch each hole was offset Here are my designs for the EA81 to EA82 subframe blocks. On the subframe blocks on the engine crossmember closest to the cab, the holes were offset about 1.25 inches. On the subframe blocks on the engine xmember closest to the front clip, the holes were offset 1 inch. See the pictures to get what i'm saying. Blocks on the crossmember and blocks on the radius rod/transmission mount. Then linked all the blocks. Front xmember, trans xmember. Some sick notching. Done by hand I also decided it would be best to extend the radius rods. I extended them 1.5" to help clear my 29's. Note : you need to notch the holes in the control arms. 1.5" imo was a little to much. Now onto making the front strut lift blocks.cut at 6 degrees had an assload of camber... Finished product. Blocks tacked together Now onto the rear end. Very simple I used 4 pieces of 3x2x2" square tubing to lift the rear torsion bars. I also dropped the rear Diff the same amount which required 4 blocks of the same 3x2x2" tubing. Rear lift blocks in. And I know this thing is rusty. Rear lift blocks got linked as well. Threw in the Ej22 along with the 5 speed transmission, rear diff and driveshaft. To make the 5 Speed dualrange fit, I used the 4 speed mounting brackets which were modified. The holes in the bracket were elongated. Than the 4 speed transmission bracket and mounts were able to be used, to bolt to the 4 speed trans crossmember. The trans crossmember holes had to be notched. Wiring I went with a different approach than in the loyale. Everything power related was hooked to a switch panel like the on, start, fuel pump, and acc. I believe I only spliced the harness to two wires, the tachometer and the VSS. Well it finally ran and drove! I also made a quick front bumper for it. First time out of the garage. Drove ok but had no rear shocks, and the steering was sloppy. The steering I had in was a manual EA82 rack, and I had like 3 u-joints which made for ultra sloppy steering. Drove it 10 minutes to Agoura Hills. Had some extreme issues with it dying when coming to a stop. I still haven't fixed it but I do believe its because of my broken Speedo cable tripping up my VSS. Driving it with no shocks was sketch. Back end was wayyy to soft and hopped all over the place driving down the road. Had to hit a trail on the way home. No rear axles. I started working on welding in shock hoops for the rear. Used 3/16 plate to weld to the frame rails along the pinch welds, and generic shock hoops bought offline. Eventually this will also be linked to the tube chassis. Here is the drivers side welded in Both hoops welded in. Yes the passenger side hoop had to be angled. Linked the two hoops together for uber strength. I'd like to see how this holds up as the frame rails are super thin. And this is my fuel cell I mentioned. It's plastic. The whole front end was finished being tubed, so it got hit with a coat of paint. Got around to swapping in a blown power steering rack from my loyale. I had to extend my current (90-94 legacy) steering knuckle a couple inches to make it work. The new steering joint and blown power steering rack cured the sloppy steering. Eventually I'll have power steering in it. I have a whole new power steering rack and tie rods in the garage but I need to find lines to make it work with the EJ. The tube chassis was nearing completion, so I took it 45 minutes away to a trail in Malibu. Despite it being FWD I was able to make it up most obstacles. My friend in his first gen 4runner was spinning tires (open/open diffs). I struggled but bumping it I made it up more obstacles than I expected. Stay tuned. In my next post the rock sliders will be fished and i'll show some pictures of the tube chassis.

It's 2WD when 4WD isn't selected has a mechanical center diff instead of VLSD like EJ's, but they're similar enough that some rear extension housings/center diffs and some internal EA and EJ trans guts can be swapped.

that test only works in neutral I 'think' - that's how it works on our Outback, so, was the driveshaft also turning? you might dig around at www.cars101.com to determine if that year-model had rear LSD.

Episode 3 up! Fabbed up the rear diff mount https://youtu.be/Z3zbsiqen_8

I went out and checked out the car. No sign of leaks, transmission fluid full, no burnt smell, drove it around his neighborhood and drove fine. Upon returning I did notice a little bit of steam wafting up from the driver's side of the radiator. I couldn't see a leak or where it was coming from, but I'm sure this was the "smoke" my son saw when it was 20 degrees out. I told him to drive it for a couple of short drives and if everything else is OK, drive it back home and swap cars so I can look at the radiator. I'm hoping the radiator I have out of a '96 Outback will work in his car, or else we may be parting out our '97 GT in the next couple of weeks so that one should work. The only other thing that I looked at was the recently replaced A/C compressor (thinking it may have locked up when he was driving it). The compressor clutch was fine but the compressor didn't kick in except for a few seconds when I turned on A/C or defrost. Something for the mechanic who installed the compressor last summer to look at I guess.

I think its standard on XT Turbos but not the nonturbos. But I’m not positive, but it seems to be the case The optional XT6 sunroof was different too, it doesn’t come out but rather retracts and/or lifts up and is smaller so I’d guess the very rare optional roof is different than the standard one as well.

And the rebuilt starter is likely from China and is a piece of junk. Much better to get an OEM one from a junk yard and replace the contacts (which is what causes most of them to stop working)

There is no center differential - in 4 hi/lo its locked front & rear. You don't need 4wd on pavement or hard packed ground. It will torque bind then. Are you sure the rear diff is 3.90 ratio? Look for a decal on cover. Try shifting out of 4wd in 1st at slow speed.

Don't know if it was an option but my 85 had one.

on an '06, the rear sensor may be more than just a cat conv 'nanny'. best to be prepared for a new cat but, catching up on any lapsed maintenance and examining for exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks and anything else that may throw-off the a:f ratio is important.

That’s fair enough whitestorm, I’ve ditched mine for an EJ22. A wrx engine and box basically bolts into one of these. Custom tail shaft and gear linkages are needed and a cut down wiring loom. But overall it’s a pretty easy conversion. Cheers Bennie

Green and Green/White are 12v+ in to the rotary switch. One for open, one for close. when one of those wires sees 12v, it then passed through the rotary switch and on the motor to move the door. when it rotates far enough, the switch opens, and power is no longer sent to the motor, so door stops. Black/red is 12v out of the rotary switch in the door unit.........loop it directly back to the Green/Red for motor 12v+. I think OE style it went out and looped through a lamp on the dash to tell you when the motor is moving. But that isn't necessary, so my diagrahms just show it looped back to the Bl/red. I would ditch the 8 pole relay. Not needed and hard to source a replacement if needed. is it even a 12v or is it 120v AC relay? Anyway, 1 or 2, 87A relays would be enough. 1 is enough really for a simple setup like I show in first diagram. The 87 and 87a pins make a convenient "either/or" for motor door open and close signals.

i especially enjoy that this causes cancer, birth defects, and other reproductive harm

This part was $13. Installed it this morning and it works like new again. They don't carry solenoid rebuid kits at any of the major auto parts stores anymore, I checked. They are more than happy to sell you a rebuilt starter for $200 or more though. I hate to think what the dealer wants.

Since I could'nt find this info anywhere else on the web, I joined this group just to use the search function, but nothing here yet either. Here's what I ended up doing. I limped it along on the start every 4th try after spinning routine for a few days, but I don't recommend it. Using a internet pictrure search, I found one that looked like it was right size and length and ordered it by sight. None of the sites had dimensions listed for the part, just enter your vehicle info and yes or no. This one ended up being for a Toyota but the contacts that came with it do not fit the Subaru solenoid shaft, they're offset slightly.

If they both say 4.11 on them they are the same. Manuals do not have FWD fuse holders. They do not have transfer clutches. They use a viscous coupler. GD

I honestly don't remember if it's got a fuse, I wired it in over 15 years ago! I could care less what the law says about forward lighting. I'm much more conscious about blinding other motorists than the average driver.

I hope with a fuse. lol That's how the top diagram of mine would work. Light can be on anytime. Of course this means it could be left on and drain battery. The second diagram more like how it would be from factory. To go on with LO and off with HI beams. with the addition though of a SPDT switch to override and turn on Center lamp anytime. FWIW, I don't think the it's legal to use the Center lamp as a "supplemental" lamp while HI beams are on. Although it's painfully dim so it probably doesn't matter.

I wired my center lamp direct to the battery.

Here's 2 ways to do it. No need for some fancy relay. Simple, "anytime" setup. Makes it so light can be operated at any time, regardless of Ig. or Lights. 02061502_zpscsqtiizo by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a bit more complicated. This setup would be only operational with Ig. key on. The SPDT switch allows the lamp to be set to be open and on whenever lo beams are on, or to be on constantly whenever at least the marker lights are on. 02061503_zpskfpseh4g by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

That should work. Cut the blocks straight.

I have been away for a while due to relocating to NM. There was a little progress with my 78'.

And.........I also replaced the gauges. I went with the BRAT gauges with a tachometer. I had to run a new wire to the coil, but it works flawlessly! Plus, they are way more sexy.

Once the choke was figured out I decided to put the BRAT on ramped and block up the back... I pressure washed the hell outta it and scraped the stuff with edges. I rust-reformed it all and still in the process of undercoating it. I am gonna leave it on the ramps so we can fab an exhaust. Any recommendations on a muffler to replace the pre-muffler under the driveshaft? I think I am gonna run one new age muffler rather than a pre-muffler and a muffler. Ideas?

It has been a while since I have posted on here. I was having issues with the electric choke on the Weber Carb since I last posted. I ended up replacing the electric choke with a manual choke and now I have control!!! The Weber seems to be operating properly now with the new choke and the placement of the vacuum hoses.

Its been some time since those photos were taken. Here are a couple more...