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Awesome! love seeing the working 3rd eye lamps working. Glad I saved those crude drawings from so long ago or I'd have forgotten it all by now.

Yeah we used to use the 22E heads, but we don't anymore. The 25D heads are superior in every way. The 25D head is a turbo cylinder head easily capable of 500 HP in stock form. GD

Thanks so much. That will be quite helpful. I can correct others the next time I play croquet, which is likely never. I'll be sure not to be so specific about implements going forward. For other contributors, here's the latest: I pulled the alternator and it's an aftermarket part without any identifying label or number, and a different looking housing from the OEM Mitsubishi (A2TB2891ZC). Based on that, I won't pursue a rebuild. I found a used and tested OEM Mitsubishi alternator nearby with a six month warranty, for cheap. Should it fail at some point in the future, it will be worth rebuilding. If the trouble arises again in short order, at least I'll not have invested much and will have a factory correct alternator.

change the oil separator plate from plastic to metal while you are in there too.

Yes as long as the EGR configuration matches. I've done a bunch. Love the 95 2.2 into the 96-99 Outbacks.

LOL I think I loaned you a stock Cyclops relay to make the diagrams from. Good Job!

You're a genius! Works perfectly better than new! I'll post pics soon, enjoy your weekend.

Agreed with FerGloyale. I believe there is the FT4wd box in 3.9 ratio but it’s a difficult one to find. If you want a better diff ratio the only way to do it is to customise the pinion shaft. I’ve got 4.111:1 in mine and it works a treat. I do wish I put in the extra effort/coin and got 4.44:1 though. If you do got for a 4.xx ratio you’ll need to also shave the crown wheel to clear the larger L series low range gears. Mince you’re running one of these boxes there’s a coupe of “rules” to keep the centre diff happy: 1) always run tyres of the same make/model with the same pressure! 2) once on anything remotely loose/slippery LOCK THE DIFF! This will reduce the possibility of one axle spinning faster than the other. Locking the diff in these situations will prolong the life of the diff (which is hard to find in good condition these days!). Cheers Bennie

Fulltime w/difflock swap is exactly the same as regular EA 5spd d/r swap. with the exception that you need to add switching solenoids in addition to the d/r lever hookup. Easy, use Single range pushbutton solenoids and spdt switch. It is possible to put the 1.59 reduction into the FT box. Good chance to put the 23 spline stubs in the front diff, casue there isn't an easy option for 25 spline axles in the Brat (unless you got EA82 front) It is NOT possible (to my knowledge) to swap the final drive to 3.9 or 4.11, as there was never a correct pinion shaft in that ratio for the FT4wd box. So you'd end up with tall first gear. Funny thing is those boxes have LOWER ratio 2nd through 5th. So it offsets the 3.7 ratio a little bit.

sure you've got an 87a relay and not Double pole 87 ? How is the lamp powered? Does it go one and off with the switch?

if you have spark at the plugs and starting fluid, then it must be the firing order. Maybe when you replaced plug wires. Ensure that you have 1-3-2-4 counterclockwise... #1 on disty cap is closest to firewall.

If there's no bushing between the absorber shaft and the body, you may want to consider shimming/slotting the mount in some way to reduce stress on it. Because of the forward/aft movement of the rear swing arm, it will bend that rod a bit. Both WJM and I tried mounting factory rear shocks (his were BE/BH Legacy, and mine were NA Miata) to an EA82 by deleting the bushing. It worked fine for a month or so, and we both snapped a shock absorber shaft right where it meets the upper mount. Not a fun experience. I switched to an NB Miata shock, which does use a big bushing on the top, and never had a problem.

Yes it's virtually identical. They just didn't machine the oil return pipe hole (press fit) and they have the coolant and oil feed ports blocked with threaded plugs. You can use EJ20K cams directly in them also. If you use a JDM 20G intake it bolts right up. They are a fabulous value considering what they are capable of if used correctly with proper tuning, compression, etc. They would make a beautiful E85 engine build. I am sure I could put well over 200 to the wheels with E85 and 25D heads. GD

Close, but definitely different. EJ20G has larger valves with sodium filled stems. Also larger buckets and shims. In an EJ body car, I say go for GD's solid advise. But in an older EA body, it just get's alot harder to fit the damn thing in there so the small EJ22e heads are the easy choice.

The collar is so the bolt sits correctly in the lower strut mount. The newer Gen stuff uses like a 14mm bolt for the lower strut bolt and the L series is a 12MM, so Instead of making a bushing to close the clearance gap in between the collars the coilovers came with and my bolt, I just remade them to suit. The lower still retains the rubber bushing. For the rear top hat/ mount, I could not retain the factory bushing setup and it had to be stripped off. The mounting plate is sitting directly on the coilovers top hat rubber mount. Honestly it fits pretty damn good. Will be checking into solutions if NVH is present when the cars back on its wheels.

I have since found out that Subaru has made a new run of OEM replacement struts. Incase anyone wanted to know that. But for the price I would buy Gecko coilovers. Several people have installed them and so far as I know, everyone that has them have been happy with them.

That's fine Bennie. Nissan 720 4x4 PUs had 3.90, 4.11 & 4.37 ratios. 1984-88 Nissan 200SX had 4.11s. Was lucky to find one locally. Ring gear bolts are 10 mm in these early R180s so 12 mm bushings are needed to adapt to 2005 wrx sti LSDs. Check out hybridz forum. Edit: IIRC '82-'85 Nissan Maxima may have had R180 diff also

You just use whatever flexplate/flywheels matches the trans. If you have an automatic, that will be the 2.5 flexplate.

95 2.2 goes in a 98 forester easy as well. I have done 3-4 of these 95 2.2 into 96-99 outbacks. Not a 99 legacy though as that is gen ii