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White Spokes Uber Alles!!! The others look like most other cars of the same vintage and genre.

No need to convert to a hydraulic clutch. Just use the cable clutch fork and move the pivot to match the clutch fork. Then mount the clutch cable mount bracket to the gearbox. Sounds like the trip will be some good fun! And your issue with the auto swap is that you need the TCU, associated wiring - then work out how to mate the TCU in with the ECU so that they talk to each other. Best bet is to rewrite the vehicle with an auto loom from a vehicle of the same model. It’s a lot of work for little gain for most. Cheers Bennie

On the plus side there aren't any extra cracks in the windshield after those bad landings. We worked on getting more travel out of the 2002 Outback rear suspension this weekend. First step for the longer shocks was to cut a hole in the floor. This will be the base plate the shock tabs are welded to. There will also be one under the floor for added strength. I took this picture after we cut the hole but this was a stock bracket to reinforce the shock mount. We thought that was a good idea. This is how the shock mount looks tacked in. The outer tab will be welded to that plate that bolts into the side of the body. Hole in the base plate had to be slotted/enlarged to get the shock out with the reservoir hose. With the shock installed. We will have to remove the spring and discharge and compress the shock so we can swing it enough to snake down out of that hole. Not ideal but if we're taking the shocks out we'll probably discharge them and remove the springs either way. The Fox shocks I had on there had about 5" of shaft travel and 8" of wheel travel. With these longer shafts and bodies and moving the upper mount up into the car we now have 7" of shaft travel and about 11" of wheel travel. The upper link hits the body at full bump but the worn down tire is starting to rub on the wheel well too. Limiting full droop a little shy of where the inner CV bottoms out. Have extra shaft travel too in case we come up with a way to use it. Also changed the shock valving while they're apart. Will probably take a few days to get everything painted and assembled and then I'll test it out.

I've heard that cross-country travellers, like truck drivers, love satellite radio. They can listen to the same radio station all day, even as they get out of range of terrestrial stations.

Hi everyone! Im a new member here. I have never been into Subarus, didn't know much about them (except that they are hard to get parts for where i am from) so i have stayed away from them. My wife has always been joking around that when she gets her license she would want a Subaru (she has seen those WRX STIs somewhere and every time someone says Subaru that car comes up on her mind). So few years ago i bought her "a Subaru" as a gag for her birthday. It was a rusted out Subaru Leone 1982 Hatchback. That car has been sitting since then to have a proper rebuild. So two years ago i found this 86 Loyale for 200 Euros for a parts car (Wifes Leone is 2WD so this Loyale was supposed to be a donor for 4WD). As soon as i bought the Loyale we decided to trash that car a little and we had so much fun - so much that i destroyed the clutch. I got some other car projects going and due to lack of time and money to "properly" do those projects i decided to hop up my motivation to change the clutch on the Loyale and do some winter beating, so i dragged Loyale home from my country side place. To change the clutch i decided to take the engine out (didn't even use a cherry picker, just pulled it out with my buddy and our raw strength). Clutch was pretty much gone. So changing the clutch became so much more Engine was gunky so i decided to re-seal it with new gaskets. So i took it to pressure washer first. Also found out that previous owner had messed up ALL threads on headers. I had my friend drill and tap new 8 holes. (I don't have the pic of new holes) but i decided to build new headers. When i opened up the oil pan i noticed that a lot of junk came out. The car also had crazy lifter noise so i decided to replace cam case O rings that were pain to order. Im not so sure about lifters being sealed in their place it silicone, anyways on of the lifters had came a part so i ordered all 8 new lifters and put it all back together. So i got new exedy clutch for Subaru XT 2.7l, i got my flywheel machined 1.6mm. New water pump, new pulleys, new timing belts and tensioners, new cam seals, new crank seals (front and back), new valve cover gaskets, new cam case O rings, new oil pump gaskets. This car is a parts car for my wifes Leone (which im not going to restore least not before 5 years) and THIS Loyale im building is pretty much trashes. Every part of this old Subaru keeps fighting me and more i disassemble the more needs replacing. I am not going to restore this car, its just for having fun (maybe do some ice racing) and crawl offroad around in my country side forest. So why build so much? I don't know! My friends keep giving me a crap about sinking so much time and money into this old Subaru. I got to admit i became huge fan of Subaru engineering and these old cars are awesome. There will be more to come, currently messing around with brakes (brakes are completely shot - front calipers don't move in any directions, caliper pistons are destroyed and couldn't find new ones, rear drum brakes were braking off everywhere i touched them) i got new brakes ordered from Rockauto and it will take some time for them to arrive. Also im missing those clips that hold clutch release bearing to the clutch fork (been waiting 2 months on those clips) so then the engine can go in.

Hi all, Thanks for having me, here's my POS: a '15 Forester, lifted 2.5" on 29's. (2inch Sumo kit and standard height King Springs). Full skids, RTT, recovery gear + a bunch of other crap in the trunk, ham radio, etc. Not much stops the little thing except the CVT from time to time, (See video example here of a friends '17 XT: https://youtu.be/75caITaHrV0 ) and if there's a good taco or burger place on the way. I am doing research on a CVT Cooler, as I believe it would help my issue, but I'm not sure since I've decided to get rid of the car in the next year or two, no matter how upside down I go. I help admin a Facebook group called Offroading Subarus of Colorado, I try and take amateur photography sometimes, and like to help write FAQ's and learn more about things all the time. Been wheeling for about 8 years, came from a built Ranger (Dana 44 front, 9 inch rear, 5.13's, dual lockers, dual t-cases, custom exo cage/bumpers/sliders/fuel cell, 8k winch, etc), so the Subaru has been quite the learning curve (Especially with the CVT's behavior as shown above!) the last few years.

The gray metal ones are borrrrring.

Thanks for the link, everbody needs a FSM.

the fix is pretty simple. Cut the lines under the rear seat, before they go thru the grommet. replace with new line long enough to route to each wheel, but tucked up out of harms way. Use some rubber tubing to cushion them and simply zip-tie them to other things under there to secure them. Don't even bother with trying to drop the tank, or trying to reuse that junction block.. Had a line go on my 2002 Forester near that block. Shop made a valiant effort (without getting too crazy cost wise) to try to fix using the block, but the lines were in just too bad of condition. We opted to go up under the seat, splice in new line, and everything is hunky dory now.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice. I jacked up the car today and the left cv was broken. I put in a old functional cv axle to test the car out and it drives normally. I bought it for $425. The engine is strong. Check Engine light is off but I attached my code reader and there are 4-5 codes, such as cylinder misfire. I’m assuming new plugs and wires will sort that out. Our family now has three 1995 Legacies, a 96 Legacy, and a 1998 Forester S. So this new Legacy will be the backup car for when one of the others needs work done on it. The Forester needs work now so it’s going to be sitting around for a bit.

Not that much left after rust removal. Quite complicated area to fabricate metal for, but very satisfying to see the result. Had some minor fires, but nothing serious.

Impex Japan is a pretty cool source too. I just used them to get a clutch for my JDM Suzuki Jimny. I got my parts in a few days. You buy the part, then buy the package/ shipping when it's ready

I installed one in an 07. Pretty easy. Everything just plugs in no wire splicing. But you will need to go tot he dealer to have the SSM programmed to match the RF id emitter that goes around the IG cylinder. Without that, the car will not start. IDK how an aftermarket system would even get around that. If the RF ID from the key, or the emitter are not detected, the car won't start. No matter what you do with the IG cylinder or wires you splice. It makes the car "hotwire" proof. I would ONLY install the OEM system.

it will be either a 14mm or a 17mm Those are the only sizes Subaru has ever used. It may have been messed up a bit by someone using a 9/16 or something and rounding an edge, making the 14mm seem big. But that's what it will be. Try getting a new, 6-point box end wrench or socket and try that.

Ya l researched it what was said made sense in way. Not able to grasp the chemistry i'll take there word tho. When l got the car it had a surge issue an gutless as hell basically carboned up an choking on it own oil l reinstalled egr after a good clean seems to work. If l can help with our impact on the planet l will. I often wonder how many times we've blown ourselves back to the stone age.

93' 4x4 5spd Loyale, 91' gauge cluster ash tray light ect,6 freeway blasters,ahooga horn,P600x4 driving two PPS4-8 in back doors PPS4-6 up front with tweets and crossovers from T16-S's and a P2002 driving two P3D2-10 subs love my rockford fosgate

Looks like I’ve got the next owner for my 78 4WD wagon. So next Saturday I’ll be cutting my old faithful companion free. Then I’ll be without any 1970’s Subarus. Sad but there’s good logic behind it all. And I’m sure I’ll be back when the time is right. So many great memories and stories. This wagon was a true hero to my young family back about 17 years ago.

Please read this before upgrading your forward lighting: Thinking of converting your halogen headlamps to HID or LED?

Wow, why so much hate for LED's? Using them reduces the load on your electrical system and if done correctly they are not a road hazard. I have a LED light bar on my Brat and it only gets turned when needed and with no traffic coming. If it does happen, it gets turned off just like your high beams. So far the light bar has worked with no issues, going on 3yrs now. I also converted both my wifes 05 Outback and my 03 Foz to LED. The wifes car has projectors so it was a done deal. Mine I had to retrofit a set of projectors into the housings. Btw, the headlights are HID, which might also get converted to LED soon

Lines go through the grommet under the rear seat and down to a junction block, then from the junction block they run up over the gas tank and out to each wheel. To replace them properly you need to drop the tank, which if the brake lines rusted out means a hellfest of broken bolts, fuel lines, the pipes breaking off the senders, and the nuts on the tank being too rusty to be able to get the senders out of the tanks. Don't bother to open that can of tin worms. Bend up your own line, there's enough space to sneak it through between the tank and the body and over the crossmember, then round to the wheel. If you can't get the line apart at the junction block (it's mounting will bend while your strugling with it and crack the rusted line for the left rear too) then just put a flare union in under the back seat. The rear brake lines are a flaming pain in the rump roast to do, expect to spend all day bending, fitting, flaring, swearing, securing the lines so they don't vibrate and chafe, bleeding (if you can get the bleeders to break loose), and probably bleeding yourself because of all the sharp rusty edges under there.