Leaderboard

Are you wanting to just swap in an EJ25 block in place for an EJ22 and retain the EJ22 heads intake and ECU? If so - yes you’re good. If you’re wanting to use the EJ25D manifold then this is more nuanced. In the US the EJ25D manifold is plug and play into 1995-1998 EJ22s but not 1990-1994 just because the connectors are different. you might want to be a little more clear what you’re doing before I lead you astray!!

Need to watch your compression ratio. A 251 with 22E heads is well above 12:1 and is much too high even for premium fuel. EJ25D is between 9.5 and 10.5 depending on 96 or 97-99 pistons. You can use the 25D pistons in the 251 block but you still must use the thick 25D HG's. As for the 22E management running the 2.5. Yes it will run. No it will not be optimal. Closed loop will correct idle and cruise fueling. Timing will not be correct or optimal, neither will power enrichment or knock control (different bore size and sensor frequency). GD

Any good alternator/starter rebuild place should be able to refurbish the old one and make it better than any off the shelf unit would be. Might be a little more costly, but in the long run well worth the added cost. yeah, you may need to get something in to hold you over temporarily, but i would have the stock one rebuilt and put it back in when done. did this with my old 95 Legacy and it was so worth it. Still have the aftermarket one up on a shelf, lol This is the kind of place you want to find.. https://www.generatorstartershop.com/

That’s actually really common and usually not an improper installation. I have no idea how many of those I’ve seen with the same pinched smaller circular passage of that gasket. I’ve probably got some old ones laying in my garage and we could google images of the same. Im unsure what causes it but Ive suspected inconsistent mating surface clamping force between the pump body and engine block which allows that portion of the gasket to get sucked in. keep driving it and the new gasket has a good chance of doing the same thing. If you don’t have any ticking then this is probably a nonissue. Besides ticking the pumps are robust. high mileage or warn engines will have internal wear influencing oil supply which won’t be remedied at the pump.

No heat as a stand alone symptom points to control unit or clogged heater core. Those 06 controls are a bit convoluted. Are both heater core hoses in the engine bay hot? Are the control unit functions all working properly - display, temps, and does it properly change from feet to vent to defrost airflow positions, etc...? Can you hear the blend door moving when you switch HVAC output positions. Some 06+ era Subaru’s would have lack of heat due to internal coatings clogging the heater core. It may have only been Tribecas but it’s worth looking into. The solution is to flush the heater core or replace it.

I’ve got a gen one . That was not me posting about the third eye brat. Was a random post in the thread.

Yes. All day long. I’ve swapped a bunch of Phase I EJ22 and EJ25 ECUs and they all perform identically with exactly the same long term gas mileage.

It’s not the fuel filter. Dragging brakes, CTS, plugs/wires/air filter, check engine light issue...? The CTS (coolant temp sensor) is the connector and sensor right by the thermostat housing. They get corroded and are problematic all the time on XT6’s. All the time. Like I have no clue how many bad ones I’ve seen. If it’s bad, the connector usually needs replaced. I’ve even just soldered each wire directly to the coolant temp sensor terminals. Install little clips so you have a pigtail to disconnect if needed. Or get a new fuel injector connector (there’s a generic one that’s identical and fits) and splice it in place. You can try cleaning it all up it with sand paper or files but it’s a go of work for low grade results. Also take note if the corrosion goes up the wire - sometimes it can go many inches up inside the wiring insulation.

Get a Subaru Rebuilt Alt!

Hello everyone I changed the spark plugs I started the car and it no longer had the check engine light on and idles fine but I will not be driving my Subaru until my access port gets here

Does it run OK? Any codes? If you're washing the cylinders walls enough to get fuel past the rings and into the oil, I expect it to be running pig rich. Sound about right? EA81s have a smaller return line, not intended for fuel injection. What's the volume of that pump you're running? If it's higher than stock EJ22, it's possible your return line is restricting and overpowering the regulator. You could put a fuel pressure gauge in after the regulator to see if that side of the circuit is pressurizing.

Could it be unburnt fuel that flooded and washed out of the cylinder, left over from troubleshooting the initial swap?

if the engine temp sensor were bad, it might signal the ECU to continue 'choking' the engine as if it were cold. I'd expect poor running and maybe a fuel smell in the exhaust...? the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can leak, look in the vacuum line for fuel.

The only thing I can suggest is dirty fuel clogging the new injectors so they’re stuck open. I hope you have an EFI rated fuel filter after the fuel pump. Is it hard to start when cold and hot? Only way fuel can be getting into the sump is via the injectors and the cylinders on shut down. Even then, the correct inlet valve of the leaking injector(s) needs to be cracked open enough to let the fuel past them. After immediate engine shut off, are all injectors also shut off or is some sort of residual power getting in there and activating the injectors (extreme long shot!)? How long does it take your oil to be fuel contaminated, and what makes you think you’re getting that amount of fuel in the sump? Cheers Bennie

2021 Subaru Forester, Tire size 225/60R17 Chains first bought: Volt QV339 (from Quality Chain Co). Label on package says they fit this tire size. They do not. I have now ordered SZ143 Super Z6 Cable chains from the Security Chain Co. (the brand that Subaru dealerships sell). Their chart says they will fit my tire size. We'll see. Maybe this will help anybody in a similar fix. Cheers all!

A leak can also cause it to not pull from the overflow. Leaks and there becomes more and more air in the system which prevents the overflow system from working right.

Headgasket or slow leak - check the coolant cross over and heater core hoses - the metal ones. They rust and leak. I would guess you have a good chance of it being a rubber hose or one of the metal lines leaking. They can leak intermittently due to the rusty scale not leaving an actual hole but the coolant migrating through the layers based on various ambient conditions. This makes them tough to find sometimes But if they’re rusty that Should be obvious have you noticied any coolant smells? Hopefully you get lucky but this is how some H6 headgaskets begin to show themselves. Random events spaced months apart. It’ll slowly get worse over time so you’ve got a looong time to wait and see and check other things if it is the HG. Can take months, up to a year to manifest itself to obvious symptoms. I say this because the heater core being clogged isn’t likely to be that intermittent and that “hot/cold”. They’re often “warm” or even vary drivers to passengers side. And manifested itself with different symptoms each time - the second being overheating. You had low coolant in the radiator - it should have drawn water from the overflow. Thermostat doesn’t cause low radiator or heater core issues or coolant loss. you bought a pressure tester last summer as if something was suspected? H6 headgaskets have this kind of “timing”, months apart, more than other options. A slow leak or HG explains all of those for H6 Subarus. Nothing else really does A leak is more likely but watch that temp gauge. It is 100% not the water pump unless it’s the source of your water leak. There’s a weep hold on the drivers side - look there for water pump leak. Rare on H6s but it happens. If it’s not leaking then the water pump is fine.

What happens from a slow leak or bad radiator cap is it lowers the pressure in the system and that lowers the boiling point of the coolant allowing it to boil and create air bubbles.

A slow leak will slowly introduce air into the system, and the smaller the bubble, the smaller the symptoms. So it's possible. I'd definitely pressurize the system and look for other leaks.