bheinen74

half turn in or out on the driver side tie rod will correct 90degree off steering wheel. Loosen the lock nut near the end, crescent wrench to turn the shaft, while holding the nut, and holding the boot from turning tighten nut back up. check. usually 1/4 turn to half turn total works.

can't wait for thread updates:popcorn:

check under driver side carpet, maybe the heater core went out or the heater control valve.

it does it on most of mine as well, must be normal.

http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/?action=view&current=bratgocart.jpg

i can get one just wanna make sure i not overpaying for it.

what is the going price on a original Brat Go Cart shell, the red one with the devil kid stickers.....? its just the shell.... its in avg used shape.

think Cooper is a brand around ....

205/70/15 will not work without a lift just so you know my 85 brat with 4 # lift, with 205/75/15 tires 27.7" tall approx, rub that is with 4" lift.

drool. i will trade ya

Svx

i wouldnt offer anything over 9.5k for a 2003 limited.

when i was growing up, i think that they got "reversed" for more crackle.

I have a 95 wagon owners manual from my old silver bomber......i think. pay shipping and its yours.

I used a 2x4 board when i bled the fronts on my Brat. Pedal down, insert board between seat and pedal. close bleed valve when down, remove board. open valve. pedal down, put in board. repeat many times. no cost to do it this way lol. or get a helper...... why spend money on a kit when you can get a helper for free.

honda people will be joining in 4 x 100 on them

so you are getting lynns xt6? nice. I seriously considered it, but am now getting a SVX instead..

the tranny in the SVX is identical to the legacy turbo's of era 92-94.My 94, cruising at the 3100rpm range on the interstate at 70mph, that is the rpm that is drops down into overdrive when fully warmed up to drop the rpm to 2850. or when you go to pass someone accelerate a tad, it comes out of overdrive up to the 3100, then drops backinto overdrive.

AC compressor oil seals can and do go bad, spraying oil to the underside of hood. Its the compressor oil seals..

They are pretty underpowered in stock form. 7x Hp is not much. Like interstate driving you will barely keep it to the speed limit at times. even on highway driving uphills, they tend to loose some steam and chug along. they are slow, and have hard time keeping a steady speed up anytype hill I have hauled a heavy steel desk in mine, a complete subaru EJ22 engine, and my 2 dogs. Its been great in that respect. Tires- rims only came max size 13". Not much tire choice there for you. gas mileage will vary. 20-23 is realistic, or maybe more. we all get different. 85 thru 87 had the engine not requiring valve adjustments at all. prior to 85 had to adjust valves every 15k miles recommended 85 and earlier had factory rear jumpseats, if you want to haul stuff, get a 86 and newer, no jumpseats to take up cargo room. you can always cut out them though so maybe earlier model, but plan to remove back jumpseats expect to put work into one for reliable day to day driving. expect new axles, carb rebuild, new waterpump, new radiator, expect new hoses and belts etc. rust is a big killer on these. must crawl under and check solidness of rocker panels, and for sure the rear shock mounts area.

wuts the going price on a 2000 outback with 277,000 miles and bad motor.. its an auto.....

wow, its as old as me. looks good.

use a 4x4 deck post and whack the tire edge. or remove all lug nuts, then slightly thread 1 back on. Let car down from jack on tire and bounce up and down on bumper. whack it again.

yay. also going to upgrade my 94 leg touring wagon to a 92 svx

an 83 brat mut gl10 my dash brightness knob does not actviate the overhead light. that light activates by switch on the light housing., not the dimmer switch i would start checking for corrosive connectors all over. the door open switches are easy to find. mine needed some san paper and electrical contact cleaner to get back to new. good luk on a brat gl10 mutt.