bheinen74

Hope it is nothing serious like that, but would be smart for Subaru to act cautiously...on whatever it is. if anyone finds more info, please add to the thread. Trying to get facts or what is known.

more discussion on http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/40254-stop-ship-order.html someone brought something up that made sense to me...... somebody wassaying that maybe the parts on the car (even cars made in US have Japanese parts) that came from Japan are contaminated with Radioactive nuclear fallout, and the dealerships will have to proper wash the contaminants and do some geiger testing to make sure they are safe....... Japan has really been hush hush on this issue. All Subarus have parts shipped form Japan, so it could be legit.

Second and third opinions are the way to go most times, along with the great advice you can find on the USMB. Hope you got it fixed.

okay so that says not all, which is better than the ALl which i was dropped. thanks

Anybody hear that Subaru has put a stop ship on ALL new cars nov 23, 2011? Wondering what they messed up this time.

hmm then try a flush then if you have been doing them before. got some crud or a sticky solenoid/s in there may come out of it.

sounds like it might have a dual range trans from a 82-87 brat in it, which has a lever not a shifter...

Subarus do not like full flushes. It causes too many problems than it solves, mainly disturbing crud in the torque converter, which then gets dislodged into the main guts of your trans. those debris particles are better off staying in the TC. Now, you should just do a drain and refill, 2 more times, driving up to 100 miles between the services.

I do know the cops around here are giving faulty equip tickets to the ones that are lowered and rub on bumps. Not safe if the springs are cut either.not for street driving. off road use only. meaning track car.

oh that is pertinent info.

Sounds like the 4wheel drive engagement is working like it is supposed to. You do know you are not supposed to engage or disengage while the vehicle is not in motion? Nothing to fix, just read the manual. Please make sure you know the procedure or we will have this all over again shortly. Doubtful anything is wrong at all, with the transmission.

Broken axle is the most likely and we have seen them fail first when offroading. Wish i was closer.

The only way it makes sense to buy it back is if you have alot (and i mane alot) of recent stuff done, like headgaskets recent, new tires, new brakes, new battery, that you know what you have..... But i would not attempt to fix it, you would be better off using the parts on something else, or selling the parts to someone in need. Not likely you can fix the roof up to mount a windshield properly. If you did fix the roof, it would cost over 2g just to get it halfway right, and it may never be right 100%. That is some serious structure damage, and they are giving you what I feel is fair price for the car. The buy back is unreasonably priced. At auction, the car will sell for the buyback though, but again you would most likely be better off taking the insurance money, saving half, and spending the other half for a good one.

Probably a real hoot to get going and get stopped, well probably decent if the ground is level.

Anytime I look at a automatic AWD Subaru, I look for the FWD fuse holder, and if there is a fuse in there, I either run, or try to knock the seller around enough on price he/she pays me to take the car once I point it out and tell what it is for. Check for dark ATF, and burnt smell, if either run. If nice and pink, then it was either just changed when they knew you were coming to look at the car, or that means good maintenance. It always is a good thing to actually look to make sure the driveshaft is connected to the rear diff as well, and to make sure the rear diff is still mounted. A few years back, people were selling "AWD" Soobs like hotcakes to people who then found out the car had neither a rear diff or a driveshaft to it....

hmmm never new that he was referring to that pic, which i didn't know were stock.

hmmm always have good luck with this stuff http://www.farmshopstore.com/misticmetal.html mistic metal mover. i like the smell of it too. Hope that is not what you had bad luck with.

Oh. Mistakes happen. Best to just scrap them, and begin the search for some 15x6 non metric (there are stampings on the outer ring to identify) so you don't get same thing again. Even the Peugeot crowd on their forum do not want these.

not worth buying it back for that price. take the money from insurance and say goodbye to it. It is replaceable. Glad you got away unhurt or hope that.

no you should not do it. Your thought about key on and FWD fuse is a no go. You could tow a manual trans car, because it does not require fluid being pumped around the gear set. But no way at all any Subaru Auto trans car can be towed without the car running, while the transmission pump is off while the front driveshafts are connected to the trans. The friction clutches in the trans will be destroyed even in 7 miles. if the engine ran, then yes you could leave the car running and in Neutral it would be okay to go slow.

somebody on here i think has a sasquatch, and he lives off the grid. Maybe that person will post on your thread too.

they do make thread cutting oil, it is lots better than wd-40.... if you are gonna do hubs, it would be well worth the investment to have some around.

Is the pitch rod stopper still on the car like it is supposed to be? up on the firewall center..

think they made a diesel edit yes http://darkforestcreature.com/Courier/Information.html and drum-roll "Between 1979 and 1982 a number of electric Ford Couriers were produced -- Jet Industries purchased "gliders" without engines, and put in a series DC motor and lead acid batteries, to produce the Jet Industries ElectraVan 750. These were sold mainly for service trucks to electric utilities and the like. They had a top speed around 70mph, and would go 50 to 60 miles on a full charge. A number of these are still around, usually with upgraded motor control systems and higher voltage battery packs."

OEM exhaust lasts and fits, comes with flanges etc, much better steel. aftermarket exhaust has a designed 2 year lifespan and is junk, doesn't fit, and is not direct bolt on, usually no flanges etc for the most part.