moosens

Is that really your location ? I have at least a couple of those transmissions in CT Hubs are going to be super hard to find - but maybe the next gen after also works ? 80-84

Plan is to kill off our two FWD cars sooner than later. No set date. But I’m seeing what folks may need or even possible pass the cars along to someone. If you’re interested in these cars please send a private message and we’ll discuss. Would like to have both our old FWD cars off the books before the year is over but this could find itself going into spring. Really hoping that’s not the case. Cars: 1992 FWD five speed Leagcy L wagon , my daily pretty much since 2007. Running great. Has I think 345k now. 1992 FWD Automatic sedan Legacy L only has around 169k I think. Still under 200k for sure. Also runs great and is currently carting me around. Monkey wrench in the works would be if I pull one of the engines for a 2.2 swap into a sitting 96 Outback. So one of these cars may become just a roller. Nothing happening too soon. But given these FWD cars are becoming so rare I figured I’d give plenty of heads up. Although I’ve been hunting for a transmission for my five speed as of this moment it still drives great. Don’t really have any trans issue , other than it being so old. Bridgeport / Milford CT East coast.

Is this a DL , with the elder external voltage regulator ? I know some of the early 80’s still carried the old style forward but as I know it typically the low end of the product line. If that’s the case I would investigate the alternator and voltage regulator which power the pump. By saying yours doesn’t have the fuel filter where shown in the picture , that may indicate this is a DL or STD (fleet type).

I’ll agree that some folks are asking a bit much for the early versions of the Clarion , etc. and same for old style clocks that work. But among the community I would hope somebody has one to offer. Outside chance I may have one still around. I’ll be cracking the whip at storage over the weekend as best as I can. I’ll post back and message you if one shows up.

9403-26692 (RH) 9403-26692A (LH)

Funny they have 14” and 15” front but from what I can see all rears are the same.

Letter on the wall !! ??? I can see where I missed that. I avoid the upstairs except to pee or mooch a snack. Or snag brochures but nothing is so cool anymore.

That’s a 1400 in that car. And the original version , meaning it has what is called wet sleeve cylinders which are bolted in with shims. Once set correctly you’re good for a long time if you don’t thrash the engine about. But finding someone to do that these days will be tough. So if you want originality you’re likely going to need a factory manual (very easy to find and cheap) and start looking for shims and head gaskets. Theres a couple or so guys out there with some New Old Stock left. I am currently selling off most of what I have BUT managed to sell a bundle of those cylinder shims already. I do have some left here and there. And I have a complete engine seal kit with headgaskets and all. Rest of the car is much like those that followed up to the 80’s. But you DO have front drum brakes. Today looked at in horror but not such a big deal. You’re not going to the track with it. Fuel pump is driven off the signal from a functional alternator and voltage regulator combination. Many folks caught off guard on that. Sight glass on left side of carburetor will allow you to see the float level. If sitting a long time you’ll want to take the float cover off - but we’re getting deep at this point and almost certainly the proper way to deal with this old carb is to soak it and have a kit to install. You’re going to hear the Weber replacement talk here and there. But the old Hitachi might be worth using for a while longer. Don’t just toss it please. Sedans have the fuel tank behind the rear seats and are usually in great shape because of that. But it’s 2020 now and I haven’t played with old sitting 70’s Subarus that weren’t mine in quite a while. But the tank is “indoors” so that’s the big plus. More than likely you can go over it and get it to start. But you know the deal , check it over well and maybe take out a spark plug or all , check oil , etc Hoping it’s a manual. Those first year of automatics were a near disaster. If it’s an auto , be aware that Subaru gave up on their vendors first automatic tranny. And then further issues. Will talk more if applies. Not a whole lot of difference but yes you can put the GL items on a DL for the most part. No difference in engine , just a clock , am/fm radio , really not too much else. Let us know if you’re more interested in just keeping the body going and adapting a 2.2 with disk brakes , etc.

If only the sales staff were anywhere near as good as the elder parts guys there. Only times I’ve dealt with Sales people at Perkins I felt like throwing a punch or two at the arrogant €#£¥&@ Premier up the line is said to be a fairly decent ‘ship. And Charlie Miller might still be there ( super master guru above all else including GD here ). As the saying goes , Good luck wit dat !

Jim I’ve got a 92 FWD wagon that would turn heads in Weston. Reliable 2.2 Anti-theft garb would include being a five speed manual and the art inspired paint deterioration resulting in the absolute coolest patina. Super rust protected (now) since the power steering rack is shot and puked out fluid these parts few weeks. No need to join the gym , you’ll get your workout steering the car. Even aging bodies need to keep upper arm strength. Heat shields rattle , runs year round on snow tires , and has cool motorcycle racing related stickers and being my daily it has to have a Nova Scotia sticker on it. I would gladly donate it to you so you can save those SS checks and maybe buy a nicer ride in the future , AFTER you’ve hit the 500k mark. It’s at 345k now but still stunning around the cafes and stores downtown Westport, Darien, Greenwich, those kind of places. It’s the best car I’ve ever owned. Free to you as soon as I get my 2003 back. Or just buy new plastic electro gizmo what the hell does that symbol mean ?? rubber band transmission future mouse trap car. See you at Perkins.

Sounds like you managed your priorities well. Enjoy the trip back.

Ok yours just keeps getting me the same message that your email does not appear to exist. So you send and email to me at moosens@yahoo.com and I’ll reply. A bit worn out so you might not see it right away.

I had copied that original email. Should have pasted and sent , right ? anyhow , long day today. Give me some time if someone else doesn’t chime in. Will attempt again very soon.

Hang in there. We’ll get you straight.

Well the first one came back and I expect the second will as well.

The great internet told me “not a valid address” and gave me a choice to send anyways , so I did. First email is from the parts manual. Second email will be of the carb kit diagram.

Time to look for a service manual. That looks like an 80’s radio. But if the plugs are the same I would try it first.

Sorry , but I guess you’d need to sign in and join the group if you care to. I don’t like FB but suffer occasionally there to mostly sell parts. There’s pictures from the factory parts manual and from a carb kit. Also showed the parts lists. My dad had an 81 DL wagon bought new. Rubber flooring , no A/C , and the door chime - ding ding ding , that was so new back then , and somewhat annoying. I really have a lot of very clear memories of that wagon. The sound of the exhaust crackle when you turn it off. Great car!

I’m going to add to that in the comments. Just found a carb kit.

See if this helps. https://m.facebook.com/groups/438010226261479?view=permalink&id=3403768263018979

If I could manage pictures I’d be adding them right now. I have the factory parts manual/catalog and I am looking the carb over.

They aren’t too hard to get and for years I could never understand why more people refused to bother who so obviously would have benefited. And the younger gen argument against paper vs electronic. Phooey !! We probably have the exact same issue. I have an 80-81 combo too. Not bragging but just to show proof. I have pretty much all of them from the 1969 or so 360 thru the 70-71 ff1 , and the beginning of the “Leone” era , thru both stages , and into the 80’s. They’ve helped me. I could care less what someone else thinks of them. You’ll see me selling off my later issues. And eventually my older ones too after I sell my parts off. Ok back to work.

And look for and/or feel for the countersink in the axle and drive the pin out in that direction and re-insert it into that same countersink. It’s easier when you don’t fight tapers. Yes , that’s happened to this old man back when , where the punch was too thin but not such a disaster as I didn’t drive it hard and was able to yank it out after only minimal cussing. So naturally I have proper size punches in my box now. Enjoy !

As far as I know there can be found online both the factory service manuals and the parts manuals which are also called catalogs. They’ll help a lot.

I’m curious how you set the limits. When I do motorized shades I do that either on the unit itself at the motor while toggling the step motor or remotely if that applies. So where would you be able to set limits from ? Thanks for the education. I’ll likely have a 2017 or one from that era .... oh maybe in a few years. For now I stick with the old school. Too much electronics these days.