moosens

Get the kit as mentioned but also inspect really well the entire body (reservoir) for cracks especially around the line fittings. Kits are abundant.

Pardon me for looking at your profile but if it’s with minimal rust it’ll be fun for a good while. Romance it , play with it , just don’t hold great long term expectations as mentioned above. Given what was said keep in mind there are hoarders out there with parts and they will show up. Some yards , you’re in CO so not far from occassional action. You can string it along a few years and get your kicks-per-dollar value as I like to say. Good second , third car. You know he deal , treat it right and it’ll give you plenty of miles and fun in return. Good luck with the adventure. Enjoy!

Mix both ? Dual range from the 85-89 mated to the coolness of the more vintage and lighter 80-84 Good luck. Post pics. I don’t recall a 2.5 in that old body style but they’re probably out there.

Grounding points for starters. Pretty sure under one of the seats or carpet you’ll find the relays and quite often there’s corrosion going on. Other folks will help more.

Don’t park it next to the garbage for a better picture. Lol Just teasing. We few old school people here are going to appreciate your taking on one of ours. Being an 88 should be SPFI in the USA. Been a while since I’ve run a Loyale body or EA82 engine. Random info which may help: Be sure the air duct system is tight. Your fuel pump is under the car passenger side rear and sits on a little shelf. Fresh fuel filter ??

East coast married won’t retire till I’m 80 as well. welcome , what’s it doing ? I’ll check to see if you posted about it. Cheers!

Marketplace forum. Slap some details on it there. Sounds like a decent enough ride for someone. Good luck.

I’m sorry , you are talking rubber and not plastic. Pardon me for not focusing. Lol Those are just about impossible to fix as mentioned. Find them now because they’re already not being made anymore and shelf stock is depleting.

Seems all remedies are short term. There is a black trim paint that I’ve used in my dad’s old Ranger and it looks really great almost two years later. I’ve also fudged with shoe polish and it also looks good but doesn’t hold up more than a few months before it fades some. If it’s true rubber - which I don’t think it is - there was a recommendation from a member who used Rubber Rejuvenator as she did in the printing industry. I never heard of anyone else trying it but she felt it was the deal.

To me your wheel looks like a chromed Calmaster. But I’m not very knowledgeable on those.

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/gallery/wheels/wheels.html try that

Welcome back. Better days to you! But wait , there’s another superstorm coming .... just kidding. :) Good luck.

Welcome ! Sounds like it’ll be a truly refreshed vehicle ready for a long second life. I make composite blades at Sikorsky. Currently in tail rotors for Blackhawks. Enjoy !

Front wheel drive is fine for 99% if driving especially where you are. You did the right thing. It’s a commuter that you’ll likely get another 200k out of. Just be aware that parts are already becoming a little hard to find at times. If you’re like me and prefer to have some shelf stock I’d look into snagging a water pump , oil pump , and timing bits. For timing pulleys be sure to get quality and going cheap always results in problems down the line. Good luck with it!

Heli coils obviously worked fine , and there’s options too. In certain situations you may prefer something like I use - Timeserts. They are a bit pricey but you get what you pay for. That said you can also find simple heli coils on multi million dollar machinery. An insert allows you to bolt up and be able to remove that bold as well without any coil coming out with it. There are others but I found Timeserts to be great. Covers on , covers off - the great debate ! Lol I prefer they be on. Just spent good money on a couple New covers and seals because I expext longevity on our cars.

All door handles from Stage two 1977 thru 1979 cars work on the tailgate. They are the same. 1980 ??? That’s a new on on me.

Sounds good as long as you can. Board here isn’t what it used to be because people are retardedly giving up on message boards for face dook groups. FYI , my uncle still has his 1969 Ford Pickup here in CT - major salt/corrosive crap - due to spraying light oil underside. The big problem with our Subarus is the wheel apron has a horizontal seam which holds dirt , developed pinholes , and the water travels inside the rear quarters and settles over the wheel arch and down at the sill. With he rear wheels off , and if possible during a suspension swap , you want to treat that area if the wheel apron and tar it up or use whatever you choose. My friend just did a POR15 treatment after a good wire brushing etc. Good luck with it and enjoy your time here. Keep messageboards alive !! Cheers!

Have often driven in FWD in 80% of the year. Put the fuse in. Plenty of reading on Torque Bind out there.

Welcome , enjoy your time here. Looks like you already know about the headgaskets. Best of luck.

Front or rear ? Fwd or 4WD ?

I have several of those parts I’m sure. Just have to be patient as I’m all alone and storage is not at home. What color interior ?

Be sure to post in Historic Forum and in the Historic Marketplace. Maybe also add the same to the “Wish List” thread , which was created for when folks come across parts vehicles or a lot of old stock/hoarders.

I agree , but if times are tough or you just want to try a little DIY you can either get a carb kit , or even without one probably have no issue taking the float chamber top plate off and getting to know the float and needle. If you care to try you can get some 0000 steel wool and gently clean up the needle. It’s kind of touchy so no agressive action. At this time to can spray the area and blow it out. If you can score a fresh float and needle then go for it. Don’t forget the new gas eats old carb rubber parts and leaves more residue than old school gas it was made for. See if you can get a kit or at least the accelerator pump and it’s boot - which turns to crap at the blink of an eye. Good luck.

Easy enough to start with gently tightening the carb mounting nuts for kicks. Then remove the float chamber top. Shouldn’t have to worry about the gasket but be careful of course. Is your sight glass ok or kind of hard to see thru ?

Don’t neglect the wire clips that hold he throw out bearing in place. And that adjustment you want to start with 1/8” gap. Some might say 1/4” but to me it’s 1/8” and life begins there for hill holder balance. It sure can be a pain. And that tiny nut as well. Look for a diagram from an online manual if you can search one out.