moosens

Same as you , when we mashed the pedal or under load. In our case it was the same uphill on ramp and same spot it would start shaking etc. Maybe I'm wrong on which number cylinder. Lots of theories! Please post all progress. Good luck.

Here's what I was told by a master Subaru tech about our 96 2.2. The #4 cylinder's exhaust valve can stick even after you've warmed it up. Ours would cough and wheeze etc as we'd get up onto the highway at our local entrance ramp. Same deal , pull over and let it correct then it would be fine. Sorry to add another theory. Good luck with it. Also , the coil pack could have a minor crack in it too. Seen those balk under load too.

Devin , I blocked off the two rear lines at the junction block using some bolts I dug up that threaded in well enough. I have been lazy about getting the reservoir refilled and the front brakes bled. Lazy and crazy. I'm probably going to let this car go now. It's a tough decision and it's not definite yet , but I just don't have the spare time right now.

Thanks both of you. I haven't done anything yet so I will use your advice going forward.

I just found a copy of his list from way back in '06 Was a nice chunk of vintage stock there. Sorry , I am cleaning house and tossing this stuff. Best I can tell you is the name above and this phone number , if you dare - 707-255-8945 And it is or was at 1185 Fourth Ave. And no , I don't need anything right now.

I'm not sure but check around for an Allen head plug. Maybe on the passenger side.

Thanks

forgot for a minute we can text.

Jon , you want to borrow a hard copy ? I have the sections you want. Yes , they are usually Sections 2-3 for engine. I've got the important ones for body , electrical , etc. as well. PM me. I know I have your address somewhere but spare me the search. Cheers !

Can we like them too ? Lol Pic !!!

How much for the 4 door ? Where is it ?

You'll need your old Brat glass though. It's not that hard to swap it.

Now there will be three people looking for one this month. Lol Congrats on your sale.

Also disconnect your O2 sensor before you drop the exhaust. Mine slipped before I could support it and tore one of the wire leads out of the sensor.

Yeah , everything external can no longer be relied upon. Even what looks solid. This car was given Zeibart protection when new and some places things like brake lines also got shot. But the protection also wore off from our winter road treatment. I will check Gator as soon as I'm done here. Thanks!

Update: The lines travel in the interior along the side rockers but they travel outdoors in front of the passenger side rear wheel. That's my "hot spot". If posting pics was easy here the pics would be included but suffice to say it's ugly back there. So my plan is to make a new hard line , or two. Since both rear wheel lines are exposed enough I could easily see the other line going south just after I finish the first one. No time , it's cold , probably will suffer thru the second winter sans brakes. But at least I located the burst. It is more like 4/5 or the way back and leaking from the external section(s) of line , not from the interior. But I have to tell you that area of rocker sill has finally rotted thru and it's getting very Flintstone along the sill edge of the rear floor. So I wasn't so crazy to think my leak was internal since the outdoors is now moving into my car's interior via the rocker panel etc.... Getting very close to the end of this cars life with me , I think.

Access the fuel pump thru a covered hole atop the tank from inside the vehicle. Fold rear seat down , lift the carpet and on the passenger side you'll see the hole with some Phillip head screws holding it down. AWD vehicles pump from both sides of a "saddle" type tank. Look for the extra lines going from the pump I mentioned over to the driver side.

Can't tell where you are but I'm in CT and have a decent 4EAT for those years. Make an offer if you're up here. It's way too heavy for me to handle. It's in eastern CT. I'm getting an engine from this donor vehicle. I'd be happy with $200 just to not have to store it. Can include free a second same tranny but has a cracked or damaged transfer case I am told. Just want stuff I don't need now gone.

Keep your ears tuned for any squealing noise as time goes on. I've done what you are doing and ignored a squeal. Then the pulley exploded and it was ugly. And I was pissed. Best of luck.

We had a great re-tread guy here once. But of course he couldn't compete and didn't have the factory I'd expect the Italians do. i think I've put about 500 miles on my 78 these past three years total. And I'm not exactly going to be touring the country in it going forward.

Pete , where did you score those? I've heard about them but never crossed my hands yet. I'd be curious of course to see how they last. Pirelli tires generally feel fantastic the first 10k then go to crap fast. And the only need garlic , no sauce.

Don't find out the hard way on owning the early 2.5's. Like Gary said , the early 2.2's and especially the 90-94 style cars. Possibly the all time greatest college kid/cheapie commuter car ever. That's not just hype. Best of luck !

And Thailand because that's the rubber production center of the universe.

Sorry to say but anything from that mizmo-crap seller on eBay is lesser quality. Since the 70''s we've used Beck Arnley parts when original were not available or to get decent parts that actually fit correctly on our Subarus. Gates would have been another good choice for belts or the combo kit.

Yeah , thanks Pete. I have the tube cutter from bow hunting years ago. Have thought about the cheapie flaring kit. That leak I have to investigate more thoroughly but it was oozing out around 3/4 of the way back from the rocker sill which is now becoming what you'd expect a 70's Japanese car would be like in the rust zone. I'm pretty sure you're correct but I may have gotten sand/salt/etc. far enough into it that it caused the rupture. It's 11 degrees out now so I'll wait until it gets over 40 then get the truth on location.