moosens

You'll need your old Brat glass though. It's not that hard to swap it.

Now there will be three people looking for one this month. Lol Congrats on your sale.

Also disconnect your O2 sensor before you drop the exhaust. Mine slipped before I could support it and tore one of the wire leads out of the sensor.

Yeah , everything external can no longer be relied upon. Even what looks solid. This car was given Zeibart protection when new and some places things like brake lines also got shot. But the protection also wore off from our winter road treatment. I will check Gator as soon as I'm done here. Thanks!

Update: The lines travel in the interior along the side rockers but they travel outdoors in front of the passenger side rear wheel. That's my "hot spot". If posting pics was easy here the pics would be included but suffice to say it's ugly back there. So my plan is to make a new hard line , or two. Since both rear wheel lines are exposed enough I could easily see the other line going south just after I finish the first one. No time , it's cold , probably will suffer thru the second winter sans brakes. But at least I located the burst. It is more like 4/5 or the way back and leaking from the external section(s) of line , not from the interior. But I have to tell you that area of rocker sill has finally rotted thru and it's getting very Flintstone along the sill edge of the rear floor. So I wasn't so crazy to think my leak was internal since the outdoors is now moving into my car's interior via the rocker panel etc.... Getting very close to the end of this cars life with me , I think.

Access the fuel pump thru a covered hole atop the tank from inside the vehicle. Fold rear seat down , lift the carpet and on the passenger side you'll see the hole with some Phillip head screws holding it down. AWD vehicles pump from both sides of a "saddle" type tank. Look for the extra lines going from the pump I mentioned over to the driver side.

Can't tell where you are but I'm in CT and have a decent 4EAT for those years. Make an offer if you're up here. It's way too heavy for me to handle. It's in eastern CT. I'm getting an engine from this donor vehicle. I'd be happy with $200 just to not have to store it. Can include free a second same tranny but has a cracked or damaged transfer case I am told. Just want stuff I don't need now gone.

Keep your ears tuned for any squealing noise as time goes on. I've done what you are doing and ignored a squeal. Then the pulley exploded and it was ugly. And I was pissed. Best of luck.

We had a great re-tread guy here once. But of course he couldn't compete and didn't have the factory I'd expect the Italians do. i think I've put about 500 miles on my 78 these past three years total. And I'm not exactly going to be touring the country in it going forward.

Pete , where did you score those? I've heard about them but never crossed my hands yet. I'd be curious of course to see how they last. Pirelli tires generally feel fantastic the first 10k then go to crap fast. And the only need garlic , no sauce.

Don't find out the hard way on owning the early 2.5's. Like Gary said , the early 2.2's and especially the 90-94 style cars. Possibly the all time greatest college kid/cheapie commuter car ever. That's not just hype. Best of luck !

And Thailand because that's the rubber production center of the universe.

Sorry to say but anything from that mizmo-crap seller on eBay is lesser quality. Since the 70''s we've used Beck Arnley parts when original were not available or to get decent parts that actually fit correctly on our Subarus. Gates would have been another good choice for belts or the combo kit.

Yeah , thanks Pete. I have the tube cutter from bow hunting years ago. Have thought about the cheapie flaring kit. That leak I have to investigate more thoroughly but it was oozing out around 3/4 of the way back from the rocker sill which is now becoming what you'd expect a 70's Japanese car would be like in the rust zone. I'm pretty sure you're correct but I may have gotten sand/salt/etc. far enough into it that it caused the rupture. It's 11 degrees out now so I'll wait until it gets over 40 then get the truth on location.

Vehicle is the world famous Snow Shark , 1978 4WD Wagon. I'm going into my second winter as a no brakes knucklehead - yes the parking brake works still somewhat. I've got a blown out line somewhere around midway within the passenger side rocker panel. Any of you guys work around this or actually remove and replace ? Thanks

The Snow Shark attacked at Seaside Park just before dawn. They leave the gates open , or opened them just before I got there from the single tracks that turned around at the entrance. So it was fresh kill snow for the Shark! We made tracks and twisted and launched our way through those tracks and many more to follow. The grass at the west beach parking area was the feeding frenzy. The Shark enjoyed the exercise and meal of snow. Now wet stuff to wash it away. waaaaagh !!!

CT gathering at Pete's place. Let us know when , Pete.

Yeah Tommy , any old cars that sit , especially over dirt will cause the brake shoes to rust onto the drums. And even caliper/disk brakes , but especially our rear drums on our old cars. Heat , sledge hammer , stuff like that. Spray your best anti rust agent on there wherever you can but most likely you're going to need heat and-or the sledge. You might get lucky if the vehicle runs and the kill your clutch trying to break it free with first gear. You'll get it. You just have to suffer some , like many of us have. Cheers !

Ok thanks ! Nothing leaking as I know it , but I'll find out for sure maybe later today. I do have a fork I got from somewhere with the "AA" in the part number. Can't recall the whole p/n but if it's a match it's going in. I went dealer on the disk , plate , t/o bearing , and clips as well as a new rear main seal. Also have a new flywheel I scored cheap a while back. Thanks again! Cheers !!

Related - how about those little wire springs for the T/O bearing ? Replace? They are also only 150k old. Car is approaching 300k quickly. My best car ever. Might take it to 400k and beyond.

1992 2,2 Legacy FWD 5spd I did upgrade to the metal plate as the title says about 150k previous. Doing my clutch and rear main soon. Anybody show any signs of the upgrades needing to be resealed ? Or are they typically good beyond 150k and up ? I know , I'm spending as much time asking as it'll take to just reseal it. ;(

I'm in Bridgeport. Few other active members around CT. Your house makes me think of the Berlin Kensington area. Are in in the middle of the state ? And yes , nice Subarus !

I think after seeing your two posts I'd say just get the Crosstrek or your favorite and spend the extra to have it rust proofed properly. And then down the line of course heavy rinse cycles in the winter and always using a wand and jetting water up into the strut towers etc. With what I saw the Connecticut road treatment did to my Zeibart rust protection I advise you to then check it for any needed touch up after a few years of the original application. Shedding water. That's the key. And knowing where the catch spots are and rinsing them out. Strut towers , fuel filler necks , rear linkage meeting the body , behind front fender tails , and going further back the firewalls at the base and , once upon a time - what got in from cowls that are no longer built in. That's the nutshell history of what we've seen trying to protect these Subarus in the rust zones. Crosstrek sure is cool !!

Yeah I'm still a crawler at 53 ???? Those older folks , they've kind of been there done that , usually a good reference.

When we can't expect 10 years and or 150k from Subarus you'll have riots in the streets. Like I mentioned in your other post , just maintain and protect what they give you and you'll be happy - historically. Finding people complaining about Lemon Law issues from new Subaurs would be difficult. But they also are not making products to fully survive the road salt/treatments of winter. That's where you come in. Engine-wise , we like to think they are "bulletproof", but they'll throw us a dog every now and then. Typically the dog engines even get you 10 years and 150k.