bushbasher

Well I'm not really the authority on camber with lift kits, I've never dealt with byb lifts, I've just made my own. But I do hear about positive camber all the time with lifted subarus. It would be nice to see a picture. Subarus tend to have some positive camber to begin with, so I'm not sure if it's just normal subaru bad camber worrying you or if it is really abnormal. One thing I can think of to reduce uneven wear is to not keep your pressure very high. I usually never run tires more than 30-35psi, and with bigger tires I would stay at the low end of this range. It will help the tire keep a more even contact patch with bad camber, and reduce uneven wear as a result.

on the back end, the stub going through the hub is a seperate piece from the halfshaft (unlike the front end). You just have to knock out a roll pin going through the back of the outer cv to pull it off of the hub and trailing arm. Same deal with pulling the axle off of the differential stubs. Use a 3/16 punch and a hammer, and knock the pins out. Then the axles will slide off of the splines at each end. Well unless they are rusted together. There is no need to undo any bolts to remove the axles. Then unbolt the diff from the subframe, and you've got free wheeling hubs and no heavy diff, a perfect setup for a trailer.

subarus come stock with positive camber. Putting a taller/wider tire on will make it more noticeable. Different rims will not change the camber either because they can't change the angle. Unless of course the tires are different diameters as a result, leading to one side of the suspension being further extended. One solution if there isnt some other problem causing bad camber is to slot the strut tower bolt holes so that you can slide the lift blocks closer inward. You might have to do some pounding on inside wall of the strut tower to get it to fit further inwards.

i think he has an ea82 which uses coilovers instead of t-bar.

I wonder, because I would think that welding would fry the bushing unless you were really careful, doing a stitch and letting it cool, and repeating. I would give up and buy some new control arms or get some from the junkyard.

what is the labelled tire size? The offset of the rims is a big factor, because rims with less offset (stick out further) will push the tire closer to the fender when turned. Ideally you want the rims to tuck as close to the strut as possible.

It's a mystery to me too. Maybe they decided to use autos as a test bed, with systems more designed for luxury than performance, while keeping the simple and more effective performers in the manuals. ft4wd and awd are pretty much interchangeable terms. They all have some sort of device that allows slip between the front and rear axles. 4wd's generally are 2wd or 4wd selectable by the user, with no slipping device between the front and rear axles. Jeep command-trac or quadra-trac or the various things in dodge trucks and cherokees etc are 2wd, or 2wd with a clutch activating front drive when slippage is detected (similiar in effect to early subaru ft4wd autos, or volvo awd systems), or locked 4wd mode which just locks the clutch keeping the front engaged at all times (which you can do to a ft4wd subaru transmission, you just have to hotwire the solenoid to keep the clutch engaged and keep rear drive on at all times) More confusion is added, because cherokees/dodge trucks are branded as 4wds, but the t-cases are considered ft4wd.

neato!

Yep, that would be one way of packing more power into your car

I've really noticed that there isnt a straight piece in the whole ea82 body. It's really tough to measure things out. Your top is cool. I looked at an MGB GT with a factory ragtop roof once, it's really amazing how it opens up the car. I think it would do wonders in a wagon, but still be fairly safe because the pillars are still there unlike a straight convertible top.

pretty much zero possibility of mating a justy motor with another engine, all other subaru engines are longitudinally mounted, where the justy is a transverse mounted motor.

just tell your mom that his name is chester molester

www.ccrengines.com www.ramengines.com you mean like a vendor links page?

the NP205 is widely used. It's the divorced model that is limited to 3/4 ton fords of the mid to late 70's I think.

chill out. Actually, I opened this thread to remind you of the search function, because people probably were not going to go all out helping you after doing it time and time again. But instead I made a little joke towards meatwagon, and now you're the one who's bitching.

It's not big compared to most other truck t-cases, but it's alot bigger than a nissan case, and way bigger than the little lada case I've got (once compared to a grapefruit in size, jokingly) Another option is a suzuki lj transfer case, they are up and down style, divorced, with a rear t-case brake, with a 1.5:1 ratio high range (back to stock performance on 31s) and 3.5:1 low range reduction. I forgot to add that my lada niva tcase has a high range reduction of 1.2:1 as well.

meatwagon, be the bear, not the cowardly squirrel! You must be more aggressive when you tell people to search! Seriously man, search! This is got to be the number 1 reposted question on this board.

Well the toyota t-case is not normally divorced, but you can get a divorce kit from marlin crawler ($$). And whats the point if it has an offset front output anyways, unless you're going solid toyota axles. Both the toyota and the np205 are huge cases, and we are nowhere near the point where we need that strength. np205s survive under big blocks, 4000+ lbs and 40" tires. We are running little flat-4s, and 31" tires in vehicles just breaking 3000lbs with all the extra 4x4 gear.

Yeah, my dad bought an early 60's tvr grantura once that had been rolled. So he collected as many photos and measurements as he could of the original car and built a new body to sit around the original tubular frame. He added some improvements along the way like a race-modded capri v6 and jaguar suspension. He said it was fun but he'd never do it again. The shed he did it in had to be taken down by a hazmat team before he could sell the house

heck even the rockcrawling dudes say it's freakin heavy, and they're running 150lb rim/tire combos and d60 axles that weight like 350lbs each. If someone ever sticks a small block v8 in a hatch and wanted to run 40" tires, this would be the ticket. Okay, 40" tires in a hatch would be stupid, it would be taller than it is long, but it's just an example I think the easiest case to use is the nissan, it shares the subaru flanges. But it is quite tall. The most aftermarket support is for the suzuki samurai case. But it has different flanges than subaru. My lada niva case is rare, but has center diff lock, and can be packed up really tight. Though the outputs are offset, the angles are still well within acceptable limits. It also shares the nissan/subaru flanges. NP205 doesn't even use flanges, it uses u-bolts to clamp the u-joints onto the flange. So it requires a whole different kind of driveshaft. You'd want to use american axles because they use this kind of yoke as well.

Hey Dr. RX, why not make one yourself from pics and use a 360 chassis? It's a fairly simple body, a learning experience in fiberglass, if it's something you've never done before.

be careful with that kart! wouldnt want to wreck a nice brat body :-p It would be cool if this thing could fit in your big brat! but I guess you've got the fuel cell in there eh. Anyways, :cool:

Then I wouldnt bother clearcoating it. What kind of paint are you using right now? I agree wiht moosens I think that car can pull the color off well.

datsun 720 4x4 pickup.

thats a good idea. I don't have any turbo stuff though.