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subiemech85

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Everything posted by subiemech85

  1. you are referring to the vapor separator under the hood wix 33201 the wix is crystal clear http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=33201 top line from carb vapor return one line from "tank" supply in one line to "carb" out the fuel pump mounted by the rear crossmember is not an issue, fairly protected there should be a filter before the pump I like to install a clear filter about 1' before the carb, current one happens to be mr. gasket 9747 http://www.mr-gasket.com/ProductDetails.aspx?MajID=220&MinID=2204&productID=327&txtSearch=9747 it has saved me atleast once, due to cruddy tank, remove and shake to clean
  2. they are nice when well cared for usually the ea82t goes bad due to operator error swap in a manual tras or 4eat if you go for the manual trans swap, you will also need the matching front drive shaft, as there is 120mm difference in length please post more pics of the digidash I have a nice '86 gl10 crust brown 5spd 4wd, with digidash I had to swap in a ea81 to replace the ea82t the previous owner left water in the block and froze
  3. there is NO FRAME, just BODY, unless you add subframe have a good look later when it's warmer and brighter, and take pictures
  4. you could be starvig for fuel tank pickup and fuel pump inlet strainer could be plugged BTDT ATTN: DUDE my ea81 has more power than the clutch can handle
  5. found while SEARCHING http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18614&highlight=internal&page=2
  6. or do you mean the pop pop that happens when you let off the gas to shift I have noticed that if the throttle is not completely closed, it does not happen anti after burn something tells me this is a "feature" of the subaru boxer engines, as they tried to make it not happen with various "tricks"
  7. yes ok be sure to use a t-stat with a juggle pin STANT SUPERSTAT works great best way to drian block is to remove drain plug in head, 14mm socket
  8. harbor freight has a metric set includes 14 and 17 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98229 cornwell recommended as it was the shortest due to limited access Mac is a nice medium length bit
  9. bad alt can make tachometer go :banana:s
  10. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27068&highlight=block+heater or SEARCH for subiemech85 block heater
  11. I'll check what is in stock, fairly sure it's luk, but not sure which one is which now have been out shopping all day :-\ you could call me AFTER 12pm, as I need to catch up on zzzzzz
  12. not suggesting you stole from it, but that it looks alot the same I am considering converting one to 4wd using toy rear axle and subaru ea81 engine with ea82 trans vwcaddy http://www.4crawler.com/VWpickup.shtml someone has swapped a subaru engine in already, which made me start to wonder
  13. CRC 5-56 and a finger keep the jar of beans sealed to prevent sprouting
  14. WRONG and WRONG!!!!! non-turbo MT and 4wd 5-speed 38.495 kw 131,341 BTU/h 590 x 322 x 16 23.23 x 12.68 x 0.63 AT and 4wd dual-range 45.822 kw 156,339 BTU/h 645 x 322 x 16 25.39 x 12.68 x 0.63 TURBO 47.683 KW 162,688 BTU/h 645 x 322 x 16 25.39 x 12.68 x 0.63 according to '85 FSM 2-5 p. 5 pub. G130BEA
  15. it's not a freeze plug!!!!! for ea71 and ea81 the plug is on the front of the block to the left of the crankshaft for ea82 the plug is on the bottom of the block below the oil fill tube use a 14mm bit to remove the plug is 36mm thread BTDT on ea71 ea81 ea82
  16. 10 or 12 for locknut 12 or 14 for adjuster visegrips and pliers to avoid twisting cable I have several clutch kits collecting dust
  17. the one in the link is OVERKILL and has NO PUMP I have yet to find one with a pump 400W block heater works great
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