MilesFox

polish it down with ATF

the babe rally ran through these parts, i have been through the dragon twice. the first time as a passenger with top gear magazaine and last time on my motorcycle in the dark and in the rain. be sure to check out the blue ridge parkway and gatlinburg, TN

U-HAUL Hitches for a 1994 Subaru Loyale Wagon Hitch# Type Class Max weight Max distribution weight Finish Price Details Hitch # Type Class Max weight w/ weight dist. Finish Price Details 247237 Sportframe 1 1/4 inch Rec 1 2000 N/A Black For EA82 WAGON only if the bike rack takes a 2 inch receiver then you will need a 1-1/4 to 2 inch adapter (adapter1 is the part number) 24.95 at u-haul there is no 2 inch revceiver available for the subaru

i work at u-hail i'll see if i can get a part number for you, there is a 1 1/4 receiver available for wagons. there is a model that goes between the bumper and body(requeires bumper removal) call my u-haul tomorrow and ask for tony (608-221-4277) after 1 pm central time. im off work unless you want to call me wednesday. ask for the part number, then have your local u-haul order it.(go there and make sure!) the part itself should be 119.95 and you couls EASILY install it yourself shipping is usually 3-5 days fedex ground, but if you pay for the part up front they should be able to overnite it to you(go to the store and ask to see the hitch pro) if you need the wiring kit ask for 13488 the price is 16.95

place a jack at the differential and raise it up until the motor mounts rise out of the holes on the crossmenber. lf the motor is stuck against the bellhousing(it would be if the motor was never pulled berofe) you can start a small screwdriver with a hammer between the motor and the tranny working from the sides and down to wherew the dowels would be. once you get enough gap you can go with a larger screwdriver and then a crowbar of some sort...

desmond jones has a whole case of it when they sponsored us on last year's babe rally. im going there tonight (waukesha)so if you knew where to find me i would have it. otherwise its between 4 or 5 bucks at napa

if there is an air pocket it will prevent the thermostat from opening since the thermostat itself is the highest place in the cooling system check the coolant when its cold and burp the radiaotor hoses by squeezing them. burping air from subaru cooling systems is a ritual that can take a good 10-15 minutes, waiting for the motor to wrm up. hold the rpms ay 3000 when adding coolant to get things circulating. once the thermostat opens the coolant will drop and this is the magic moment when filling up the rest. otherwaise the radiator stays full and there is a big rump roast air pocket in the motor. if you had the coolant system open recently i would bet on an air bubble

drive the car around a while and dont be afraid to wind out a rev here and there. all that clean oil running around will eventually clean out or prime up in the lifters, and that nice new filter will catch any crap that may loosen up. by your next oil change it should be all right. the liftter noise may come and go, or go away and may be return if the car sits for a while. if the noise persists the oil pump seal may need changed. the anaerobic sealer they talk about would be the ultra grey permatex label or similar if you get too heavy into the work an need an extra wrench i live an hour away

the lifters are hydraulic, the TOD will probably go away if you drive the car enough, run some sea foam in the crank and change the oil with straight 30 wt oil. the oil pump is externally mounted against an o-ring, which can suck into the main passage introducing air into the oil and causing the tick search "mickey mouse" as the o-ring is so shaped

the last time i looked up a hitch for an ea82 subaru the price was some 175 for the hitch install and labor. the part itslef would be 119.95 it basically would bolt up to the tow hook points, with new bolts. there would probably be 2 models, another one goes between the bumper and the frame(this would be strongest) i install hitches at u-haul. if you need wiring you will need the 3-wire converter to convert botht he turn and brake to one wire. it will install behind the left taillight and the green wire over to the righ turn. the heavy duty trans cooler is 80 bucks and there is a 40 dollar model, you could put that on yourself. the kit comes with hose, clamps and mounting hardware. if you call me at work (608-221-4277 u-haul east madison) i can ring you up a quote and give you the parts numbers and you can have your local u-haul order it for you. i will be working on thursday the hitch would ba a class one 2000 lbs, the small boat would be fine and probably would use a 1 7/8 ball

go to napa and get a silver or gold 1361 or 21361 filter for subarus, which is tha same as wix 51361. either way you go you will have the best filter for 3-5 bucks supposedly ford 5.0 filters will fit. i have one on my 78 toyota. once the filter gets old it will reduce oil pressure. run a can of sea foam in your oil (or a quart of ATF) and slap on some cheap filter, then change yourt oil within 100 miles with a good filter.

you can use the working end of a pair of jaw pliers or needle nose pliers to catch the grooves on the fave of the piston and turn it that way. usually if you find a subaru with a "new caliper" its because the last guy didnt know tho turn the piston or screwed it up otherwise. if you ever work the parking brake lever on the caliper itself it will move the piston out. suppose you could work the lever and extend the piston, then turn it to atch a thread.

if you only washed your car twice in wisconsin there wouldnt be much left to wash what has rusted away. i second the drafting semis rule. its good practice for ungainly vehicles like toyota campers and u-haul trucks i just acqured an a7 fwd 5spd. i stuffed 14 gallons in it and have gone over 75 miles and now the needle is just starting to move. i dont think the brush-on paint job and the light rack justify much but the dern thing gets twice the economy as my toyota camper, 40 bucks in gas lasts me better than 400 miles, thats's a deal you can live with , son.

you may have to prime the MC bafore connecting the brake lines at the mc. beel the mc at the lines that go to it first, then connect everything and go from there the ea81 mc should have bleeders on the mc itself

i invented a lighting system that goes as such: fog lights under the bumper FLOOD lights ON the bumper driving lights on the roof. the fogs will light up the edge of the road. the flood lights on the bumper will blind dseer a mile away, light up road signs the driving lights on the top will lwt me see when i a m driving in tall grass or weeds, or bean fields. the driving lights on the roof will shine down jast ahead of the lo beams on the road. therwise too bright of lights on top pointes straight ahead will only luight up the tops of trees and bugs and rain and whatnot. the best place for the light bar is at the b-pillar

the motor from the 87 dl (ea82) will fit if you remove or relocate the hill holder or swap in a MC from an automatic. you will have to remove the distributor to install the engine to clear the MC. depending on fitment around the MC and hill holder you may have to clock the disty 10 degrees and keep the rotor true to the cam, and cut off one of the mounting tabs on the disty. if you cut off the jack mount under the hood, you can use the ea82 battery and starter cable to moun the battery on that side, and run a jumper from + to the terminal on the back of the alternator the coil can be relocated as well unless you want to run a ridiculously long coil wire to the disty. if you move the coil to the other side it will fit the disty and coil wire but you will have to run the coil terminal wires extended from the other side.

the guy at the subaru heaven junkyard says to run stright 30 wt. h says "all the other stuff is for women who dont want to hear the lifters tick" and "gums up the motor" i have always used 15w-40 because i get it from u-haul. i have used 20w-50 oil as well. i have been using straight 30 to top off the babe patrol subar abd if i ever get to changing the oil i'll use straight 30 wt.

turning the postons sometimes can be a chore where they jus spon. you would have to ush on them as you turn, small taps with a hammer will help till it catches thread and turns all the way down

i have done the same myself. also, you can replace the rear half of the driveshaft from any MT or AT 4wd shaft, the rears are teh same.

if that key doesnt work the standard replacement key ios the ilco # 37 for nissan.

those ruber hangers are just about the same on any car. use some wd40 and a flat screwdriver to pry them off.

the clutch cable is new, although it may posibly need adjastment

are you sure the timing belt is not broken? suppose it broke and dude replaced the disty and now you have the car. and the belt is still broken? check to see if the rotor is rotating while cranking the motor

ok sow now the distributor is random. the mechanic guy was right but he for got to tell you that you have to continue past the 3 marks for the odeg mark(ign) he was talking about lining the disty right after installng the belt now, if you go lining up the rotor its going to be a guess to tdc or bdc so here is what you do. take off the passenger side timing belt cover. rotate the crank till you see the dot at about a 45 degree angle it will be lining up with the hard edge on the valve cover just above the word SUBARU now your 0deg mark should be very close so go ahead and line that up install the disty so the rotor is pointing directly at the hill holder or where the hill holder wuld be that is the #1 position, rotor is counterclockwise 1342. #1 cylinder is the passenger side but check to see if the rotor is turning with the motor when you crank it, because if it doesnt you have a broken timing belt

if you pay someone have them do the paint. non structural rust like on the trunk you could cut grind or sand off the rusty edged and pop rivet in a piece of sheetmetal or aluminum, its easy to cut and bend and rivets only require a drill and a rivet tool. rivets will hold the same as spot welds you can use a silicone adhesive between the panels so long as you dont make a mess or it will interfere with painting. ihad to make rocker panels on my camper and used a bench vise and a ball peene hammer to shape sheet aluminum. i used materials for repairing u-haul trucks since that are more or less built out of rivets.