4x4_Welder

Thanks guys- Like I said, I'm going to dig into it over this week, hopefully there isn't any real internal damage. If there is, I'll let you know. Anybody have an approximate weight on these transmissions for shipping costs?

Well, I picked up the 89 Turbo Wagon I was looking at, and the damage is a little more extensive than I first thought. It looks like the front universal came apart, the slip yoke is missing, and it bashed the shifter cable pretty badly. The real bad news is that the output housing of the tranny is broken. I'm going to put it up on blocks and pull the crossmember over the next couple days to find out if anything else is broken. While I'm at it, does anybody have a toasted 4EAT that has a good output housing, and a slip yoke to go with it? Or maybe even a good tranny?

Didn't I get that rear disk brake setup from you? I remember they had been converted to 6lug, and spot faced.

Whining was most likely the pressure blowing past the radiator cap- I'm in the same spot with my F250 right now- Built a sweet new FE 360 for it, topped it off with a 4BBL, new clutch, new cap, and the body still looks like crap. Oh, and I blew the rear u-joint out. Twice. The first time left me on the side of I-84 in Pendelton, OR at 5pm on a Sunday, with an overloaded trailer. I was able to get to the store as they closed, got the universal, and changed it in the dirt on the side of the highway. Second time was a slam downshift trying to avoid some idiot stopping in the middle of the road. This time, it took the driveshaft and pinion yoke with it, probably damaged the pinion too. Now I have a very strong hauling truck that's sitting in my yard. This happened about three days after I blew the rear end out of my Courier, so I was driving my wife's Wagoneer to work. Of course, it wouldn't restart at the gas station, but that's just an AMC POS. One of the good things about Subarus is they are sturdy. The EA81 is one of the most solid engines they ever put together. Tip for the future, though- Wire the fan into an aftermarket thermostat switch, or a key-switched circuit so it runs all the time. Those radiator-mounted switches always fail.

Yeah, I have had limited experience with those on an 88. That and cracking heads. If I have to pull the tranny, I might pull the engine and do gaskets and belts for good measure.

The main goal is to put together a medium-range family vehicle that can handle some weather, two adults, two car seats, and three dogs. I live at the end of a dirt road in rural Idaho now, and they don't really plow it. The nearest crossroad gets plowed since the school bus runs down it, but that's about 1/2 mile away. I know this road will be nasty, especially in the spring. This would be replacing a Wagoneer as a going-to-town car. If this thing is fixable, it'll fill that role quite well. Eventually throw some Pugs on it for better tire selection, and take it all over the place. If it's not fixable for a reasonable cost, it'll be a good running EA82T, nice gray interior, and fairly decent body that'll make me back some of the money.

I don't know, I've never had to. When I was looking into it years back, I think the max was about .020". Not much, basically just clean up a good bore and you're at the max.

I'm picking up an 89 GL wagon, EA82T with the four speed auto, but it has problems. Namely, it has no gears. The shifter doesn't seem to be connected to anything. I figure for what I got this thing for, even if it needs a tranny, it's not that big of a deal. Are there any big issues I should look for on this car, or anything beyond what seems like a broken linkage?

Looks like that one ate something, like a BB or small nut. And yes, the lifters have to be installed with the case split.

It sounds like you just broke the shift rod, and the noise would have been a partial engagement. I had a Toyota trans do this to me. The first failure point of the rear diff is the forward mount and the rear u-joint. The axles are fairly stout for the weight of the car, and traction available. I have pulled those mounts and filled in the spaces in the rubber with black RTV with very good results.

You ought to see the difference made by putting an x-brace under the car, from the rear of the front subframe to the rear suspension mounts. Every car you ride in after that will feel like it's a giant spring.

To save gas, you need a tall narrow tire. A wide tire presents a higher rolling resistance, costing you mileage. On my truck, I actually saw a 2mpg increase going from 245/75R16 steer tires to 235/85R16 LT high load rating tires on just the front. I still have the 285/75R16 rear tires to handle the weight and give towing stability. A 50 series sidewall is also really short, so it will be sitting at a decent angle on the narrow stock rims. The answer of course is to do what you did and go with the 185s. Tall enough to keep your rpms lower maintaining the same actual speed, and narrow enough not to give that much rolling resistance. Run them at max inflation on that light little Brat, and you will get good mileage.

Engine size, and what exactly is leaking? Injector o-ring, etc?

My current big project is a serial hybrid 68 F100 turned into an Expedition-style full sized SUV. I -should- be able to get 30mpg out of a vehicle that can take my wife, kids, dogs, stuff, and have enough room for me to tag along too! I'll be using similar systems to what White Zombie has, just not quite as light and fast. And with a 4cyl Kubota and generator under the hood. People don't realize the power potential electric cars can have if done properly and with modern materials.

Yup, just a whole day after someone else posted it too-

Send me $5k, and you will get a fully rebuilt Hatch with a d/r 5speed, EJ22 conversion, and I might even throw in some power steering- Once I track down all the parts. For more fun you can go with a wagon, or Brat.

Doesn't everybody rebuild their engines in the living room? It's about the only place you can work with wrenches wearing only socks Naked blets YAY! Naked legs BOO!

If your cat is plugged, it will burn out the gaskets, then the nuts will come loose.

Good work over there at Delta- I have one of your cams running the 300-6 in my F250. I need to get one for the 390 in my F100, maybe something nice and hot for the 351w in my Galaxie, maybe a roller.....

The "cable cobtrolled" SU's on the 280z were both run by linkage. The throttle cable dropped into a quadrant in between the two carbs, and rods extended out to the two carbs from there. Tri-power setups on big v8s were similar, the cable or rod from the gas pedal would actuate the center carb, then when it got between 1/3 and 1/2 way open, the linkage for the other two would tighten up and they would start to open.

The last time I had a head to hog out, it was off a Ford 300-6. I spent about two hours on each port, and when combined with a 4BBL carb, dual exhaust, and big cam, the engine would pull to nearly 6k. After fully bowl porting the head, it did loose some low end, and fouled plugs horribly. Pulled the head back off, gasket matched the exhaust, and carved a bit of rifling into the intake runners. I just put a line on the floor from left to right, and on the roof from right to left, it would have made a couterclockwise twist looking at it from the manifold surface. The difference was like night and day. No more fouled plugs, no more random misfire, and no more high rpm dropped cylinders. Also reduced the detonation problems, even though the thing had 9.5:1 compression and no EGR. Might be something to consider-

Thanks- I wish mine were on the shelf, there's just so many books here. Plus, everything was being cleaned and packed up to concentrate down the spare room, and for a coming move.

I see the timing mark on the cam gear, but where does that relate to on the crank gear? I need this thing back together here sometime around yesterday and all my books are in boxes-

Strictly AWD with no diff lock will get you much more stuck than 2wd will. Even a viscous or limited slip lock will get you way worse- the one tire on the car with the least traction gets all the power, if the power transfer is too slow then that one tire that was spinning will have melted whatever was under it, making it even slicker, and will contribute nothing to forward progress. I like d/r, but it's also a matter of know when to use it- if you go down a snowy road locked up, you will loose it a lot sooner than in 2wd. If you get stuck locked up, you are looking at getting towed out.

Did you spin the tires, and how much resistance did the screws give you? If the screws easily went all the way in, and the shoes still aren't touchnig the drum, then they are done. At that point, the drums might be done too.