Uberoo

EJ18 108 hp/110 lb ft - 118 hp/121 lb ft EJ22 135 hp/137 lb ft -142 hp/149 lb ft EJ25 155 hp/140 lb ft - 165 hp/162 lb ft After bore got to a certain point torque was less than HP.

Can you measure the blocks at the crossmember?If they are 4" than its just crappy axles, and the fix is to find some good used ones from a junkyard because the remans are crap.If the blocks are 3" or less than you will eat axles like crazy unless you drop the crossmember the full 4" or Install EA82 axles/control arms/struts etc.Of the two options I would go with option 2 because EA82 suspension is just better than EA81 and can tolerate suspension lifts without failing as fast.

Yea probably the crappy remaned axles,but does your car have any suspension lift because a suspension lifted EA81 likes to eat axles like candy.mmmm tasty tasty candy.Do you know if the 4" lift dropped the struts and crossmember down equally or was the crossmember not dropped the same as the struts?

All the good ones die young.

Yep you want the entire thing to be one solid block of urethane.Just do a layer at a time until the whole thing is solid.Might add a bit of NVH though.. you can also chain the engine down a bit which will limit how much the engine can move on the mounts.Lets say hypotehically the engine can move 1/2" on the mounts,but if you chain the engine down it might only move 1/8-1/4".Just run a chain from the engine to somewhere solid...

Just bolt the two halves together with some washers to take up the slack.screw that rubber rag joint.

I'm sure it would run 20 PSI once.

I have no idea how good steering geometry is even achieved with a center steer type rack.The inner tie rods mount near the center and are far away from the control arm mounts.When the wheel is turned the inner tie rods slide from one end to another,but the displacement on each side is the same.It might work only in the horizontal plane but throw in some movement on the vertical plane and it seems like its a recipe for bump steer. A conventional rack that mounts the inner tie rod ends at the end of the rack is sized so with the steering centered the tie rods are at the pivot point of the control arms.So when the wheel is turned each end move the same distance towards or away from center making each wheel behave like the ends of a parallelogram so the wheels are roughly parallel. In real life throw the various angles of the tie rods to the control arms and the spindles themselves a little bit of difference between inside and outside tire angle is achieved which is good for low speed turning but bad for high speed stability. If the wheels have too much difference between them they scrub at low speed and are very sketchy to drive at high speed because a little movement at one tire corresponds to a large angle at the other tire. On the other hand if the wheels are always parallel then they scrub at at low speed but provide better high speed stability(15 MPH +).If you google "ackerman angle" it will probably explain it better than I can.

If you have a good set of transmission mounts you can fill them full of window weld urethane and that will help immensely. just go slow and fill it up in layers,and let each layer cure before adding more.The mounts have to be very clean so scrub them soap and water and an old toothbrush.

Is your clutch cable adjusted correctly?

other than tire noise its not a problem because the rear axle is just dragged through corners without power being sent to it.

Where do those seatbelts anchor into the body?If the ones that support the back anchor into the floor ditch them.seat harnesses like that can't have the anchor at a point lower than 15* from horizontal or they will compress your spine in an accident.Not saying you plan on getting into an accident,but that why you wear the seatbelts for when that what if becomes reality.

Weld it,Over inflate your rear tires for street driving,drive it fast around turns so there is less force on each axle,finally when turning from a stop turn as wide as you can to again minimize the stress on rear axles.I will say though that actually blowing a rear axle or the diff on the street is rare unless you pull the front axles for RWD shenanigans... However,it is not advised to weld it with a 110 welder,unless you can heat the spiders to a dull red with a torch to get more penetration. also when your driving on a slow curvy paved road (sub 35 MPH) it can help if you intentionally drop one of the rear tires into the dirt.

I suppose its time for an update of sorts.Sence we last met: I found a job bought a truck mentored my friend in restoring a 78 mercedes benz 300 CD lost the job finished work on the MB worked a bunch of odd jobs In addition to dealing with various family BS So I haven't had much time to work on my projects but I was able to install the front suspension crossmember. Then I was able to remove the sound deadening tar from the floor of the brat to find its various cancer locations. Tonight I was able to cut out most of that cancer. Once I get that fixed the new EJ22 and 5 speed DR that I got from pull and save will go in so I can start mocking up the front suspension soon. So current plan is to weld in patch panels to the floor, remake my EA/EJ adapter plate so I don't have to drill out the holes on the EJ, stuff ej22+5sp DR combo into 78 brat,then mock up the super dooper long travel front suspension geometry thats in my head.I also need to go to a parts store and get some inline fuse holders for the relayed headlights and starter.Then go strip the ej harness.I thought of integrating the harnesses but I would rather be able to take this engine/harness and put it in another shell if this one happens to bend in half or something... I will post up some pics of what ive done so far tomorrow.

My bad,In a brain fart I thought yours was the red wagon.

Id be more worried about your lack of skidplate than your rear axles.

So did anyone go?

Does anyone still make an aluminum adapter plate with the top holes milled out?I got to thinking how heavy my steel adapter plate is,and everything could always weigh a little less...

yea,I was thinking of sliding the engine and transmission together,and putting some bolts through each one and welding them together where they meet.Then modify the steel adapter plate so they fit.

I suppose thats one way to get rid of tire-wheel wheel clearance problems.

I thought they were shaved down alittle then welded?

Of the people that still make adapter plates, who makes the plates with the upper holes siamezed so a single offset bolt goes through the adapter plate to both engine and transmission?I'm looking to remake the steel plate I made along time ago.Tired of having to drill out the holes on the engine.So I'm looking for some of the offset bolts...

the first one with a brat and stuff everywhere is like my house...

3.5-4" yes, but you will need to drop the diff.

On a loyale that is stock height it is almost impossible because of where the engine crossmember sits in relation to the firewall.At stock hight the back of the transmission will hit the ground before you get the engine and transmission to a steep enough angle to come out.Even if your lifted and the transmission can swing down the clutch linkage and pitch stopper mount on the firewall try to occupy the same space.With 2 people it might be do able,but along time ago when I tried that it wasn't possible with only me.So I lowered the engine/transmission back down until I could undo the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.After that both were out in 5 minutes. Installing the combo is worse by your self because its difficult to control the angle of the combo by yourself unless you have one of those fancy engine tilters that can tilt the engine to any angle you want. As much of a pain in the rump roast it sounds, it is much easier to put the engine and transmission in separatly,with the biggest pain being jacking/manhandling the transmission in place.But with enough lift and/or removing some parts from firewall or transmission it may be possible.