86BRATMAN

oh hell, its nothing near that bad, my 88 gl xt had blown air struts when i bought it. definitely not comparable

ngk plugs and subaru wires is the usual recomendation

I had my 87 hatch lowered as seen in my avitar pic. Road and handled really well. I personally hate the notion that all these things should be lifted.

I had a 2wd 86 standard hatch as a parts car a few years ago, otherwise was an ea71 car, but I didn't pay much attention to details on it

wagon doors will not fit, only brat hatchback and coupe doors are long enough

to be honest, all the tools you should need for the job is a 10, 12, 12 point 14, 17, and 22mm sockets, ratchets, torque wrench, phillips screw driver, flat head screw driver, and a pair of pliers, along with some rags, patience and time to do this thing right

205/75/15 will clear no problem, and there are some decent options in that size as well

you're in luck, you have the old style tensioner

thats a big negative, I haven't seen a straight one in years

I've got some of the various trim pieces you're missing in good condition. Looks good so far, can't wait to see what you do with it down the road.

I had two of the high grade 15" audiobahn subs and a 3200w class d mono block I think it was a boss amp, I really don't remember it's been 10 years since I was into the big audio stuff, in the back of a Brighton legacy wagon, db'd 153 on the meter the club had at the time. My glass never suffered, couldn't keep that torx bit screw for the mirror tight though lol

excellent news, I'm glad things seem to be turning out well for you and this car.

You can dolly it no problem. Its only the ft4wd and awd ones you have to worry about.

It'll be the same work on any brat 82-87, there were no ea82 brats built. You'll need the driveshaft, tranny mounts made up, carrier bearing mount made. And you'll have to search and find what you need for the hybrid axles to have the 25 spline ends for the trans.

I know its been covered here a time or two, keywords are your enemy with searching effectively. But the wiring for the engine will be basically the same as whats covered in the ea-ej swap guides. Your 99 is a phase 2 ej22, which limits parts interchange to 99-01 ej22's and phase 2 ej25s. Look for an xt6 manual trans crossmember, will make mounting the transmission a breeze. You'll also have to switch over to 25 spline ea82 turbo axles if keeping stock hubs. There will be some custom work to the shifter I can't remember if it needs to be shortened or lengthened right off hand. The rear diff should be a non-issue, check the codes on the transmission, but it should be a 3.90:1 ratio which means keep your rear diff in place. Your driveshaft will need to be shortened ~2 inches if memory serves. I know I'm missing some stuff, wait for Numbchux to chime in, he'll pick up where I've missed or where I'm mistaken

why instead of all this other stuff wouldn't we recommend swapping the spfi to the ea81 and calling it a day?

it's true for them until 95 from what I've seen, I've got one in my basement from a 90 model

I've done quite a few rattle can band aid jobs, if I could make a recomendation on the paint use the krylon rust tough line. The nozzle on the can fans the paint out in a similar spray pattern to an actual gun and it is so much easier to make a beter looking job with it.

most of the info on this swap is for turbo application, here is a good compression ratio chart, parts of it are inaccurate as it doesn't break down years of engines and their different stock ratios. http://www.b4et.com/docs/cr_matrix.pdf Realistic expected ratio with that combo is 9.0-9.3:1 which wouldn't be too bad for a non turbo application. You won't need to worry about the valves unless you go with a really thin head gasket or shave the heads too far. BTW, if i could find a good set of 97-99 ej25 heads I'd do something like this as well.

What is the diameter of the gen 1 front coils? I've ran accross a few different options searching for my supra a few might work for these old guys too.

B20 vtec dyno'd at 207whp, with 11.7:1, stage 2 cams, upgraded IM, and a chipped ecu.

If the kid can drive and that engine is built right you're gonna need a wrx swap to beat it. I've had a built b20 vtec back in my racing days, my buddy's vf39, sti tmic, sti injector, 3" tbe, spt intake. cobb access port tuned 04 wrx couldn't hang.

not sure where you're located but a guy in Oregon has a tranny for sale on legacy central http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=51838 5MT trans swap OBO

no, it will be a 3.90 ratio, usable but you will have to swap the rear diff as well

I'm no fabricator, but it seems to me to be safer and more effectice to build a complete body for the strut cartrige to slide down into, and weld your bottom and spring perch onto. Maybe with a threaded end sort of like the older toyota cars like my mk2 supra has on top to change out cartriges. That way its easily replaced and not comprimised in the build process.