carfreak85

I really have no idea what parts to use inside, but subaru never made an EJ20DET. They did make an EJ20XX however.

I've got that box checked too! Its actually a pretty easy conversion. Really stright forward.

Thats a coupe, not a sedan. The coupes only got the turbo engine in '84. Digi-dashes only came with the Turbo-10 package. They (Digi-dashes) often go TU and can be tough to find replacements for, especially the turbo ones. Thankfully my dash is still kicken!

Its not factory. It was a dealer option that some dealer in the south west did. They are pretty rare, but only worth what you'd pay for it.

We've done a bunch of work on hybrid cars at Western and the good batterys (The ones out of the Prius) are very, VERY expensive! I say go for it. Just remember that you will drain the batteries a lot faster if you offroad with the car.

The turbos were all automatics. IIRC, any EA81 that was an auto should have ventilated rotors. The Front rotors are almost 9" in diameter as are the rear drums. Pretty small... Ea82 are over 9".

Depending on cost, my old man might be interested.

Will, what would that job cost an average person?

I know that some of the wheels that were originally designed for a Gen 1 car will not fit over the vented front rotors of some EA81s or any EA82s. I have not tested this, so I cannot give you an answer with 100% confidance. Again, this does not hold true for all Gen 1 wheels.

The EA81 automatic axles will only fit on the stubs from a non-turbo EA82 tranny. I also suggest getting a 1 peice driveshaft made. I also had to grind a little tab off the tranny so it wouldn't tap the tranny tunnel. If you can, drill the welds off of the 4WD shifter mount inside the car on the donor EA81 and bolt or weld it into your car. I used a glob of JB Weld with two screws through the trans tunnel that are submerged in the crap and while it is holding just fine, if I did it again, I'd use the stock mount. There is some wiring that needs to be done as well. Get in touch with me and I can help you out with that.

Lets see if we can't scrounge up a flow map for this puppy.

They are the same and will interchange.

Break it off with a hammer on a really cold day. *Edit* On second thought, you probably don't get many cold days in New Zealand.

On the Hitachi, the nipples for the fuel lines may be screwed onto the carb. This may also be true of your Weber, in which case you could just unscrew the stopper and screw on the return nipple. I say that they MAY be screw in because I did this a long time ago to my friend's car and his Weber had a press-fit stopper. After much deliberation, we decided to just replace the choke of his DGV with one that had two nipples already.

What kind of fuel system do you have? If its carbed, you can put a Weber carb, if its turbo you can put a boost controller on it.

Sorta in the same spirit, there is an autox in Bremerton if any PNW sube junkies wanna bash cones with me and my friends.

Lower the idle a little bit and change the oil, new gas and plugs. That should help. Maybe the air filter too.

I just make sure that when I put the new axle back in to coat it in grease. The stub axles on the tranny and the outer stubs on the axles alike.

It was probably the first time in a long time that that axle came out. My guess it that it was just stuck real good. A few good wacks with a regular old hammer should get one out.

Ross, I sent you a pm.

Well, I don't know anything about the bushing, but I have never used a steering wheel puller on my steering wheel. They have always come off pretty easily for me.

All EA71, EA81 and EA82 body styles had front e-brakes. All EJ body styles have rear e-brakes.

It would be sweet to drop in the 13.2:1 steering rack from the '05 STi in that package too. Or the Spec C rack!

Well, I can see how it might work. In my mind, the Front drive line is the real issue. You could do something like taking the front steering knuckle that the front axle of a subaru and adapt the suspension to that or find a knuckle from a truck that would attach the stock volvo strut. You could then adapt a custom set of front axles that would be the right length and style of coupling. Then the mounting of the AWD gearbox. That could get tricky too.