Reveeen

why does my European 91 legacy does not have a knock sensor. Probably, if you don't have one, Subaru considers users in Europe "bright" enough not to be stuffing 87 octane fuel in their turbo cars. On turbo's the waste gate is opened if knocking is detected lowering the turbo pressure. That is the Saab/Bosch system, far more intelligent than the Subaru system that simply retards the timing. My turbo Saab here makes boost at idle, topping out at 21psi, Subaru turbo systems do not come this way from the factory, employing lower pressures. The closer you run a system to the edge, the closer you have to monitor, and control it. ideas about location are welcome Standing at the front of the car, after locating the throttle body, look to the right of it, near enough straight down.

he's got one of those machines where you basically tell it what you want it to build, put in a block of metal and BAM out comes what you ordered Lifting the old way does not need such a thing, you need a chop saw, a welder, A drill, and some patience. There is a pretty descriptive procedure here: http://www.subarubrat.com/mybrat.htm Specifically: http://www.subarubrat.com/liftday2.htm http://www.subarubrat.com/liftday.htm The later cars are different in the rear, same idea, just different. The patience part involves scavenge hunts for metric bolts, if I need a bolt here I have to drive all the way across town to maybe get one, the threads are not "normal" North American metric, having a thread pitch of 1.25/mm, instead of 1.5/mm.

Eventually steam starts seeping through the crack in the reservoir tank as it overheats Cooling systems are designed to be closed systems. It will NEVER work right unless you maintain a closed system (the rad cap, ok, it's not on the rad, but on that reservoir tank, has to be able to pressure the system for correct operation. *Think* of a pressure cooker, water normally boils at 100C, when you pressure a system it raises this 100C to maybe 140C (or more). A properly pressured system flows better. Is the thermostat located near the water pump behind the hose? Follow the lower rad hose to the engine (water pump), under the flange is where the thermostat lives. Is it an easy repair? It depends...........as with ANY thermostat change you really want to avoid breaking the bolts. The other side of this flange is the water pump, so go gently. What is the best way to get all the air out of the system on this car? Mine seems to fill easiest with the nose up on ramps, I have never had to go to extreme measures to get the air out, I hear "stories", but haven't had a problem here. Get your system holding pressure, get it filled, use a OEM thermostat and gasket, providing the rad is ok, and you have no leaks, it should work.

Timing belts are not "snow friendly", especially the kind of snow that blows in while parked over night. Not just Subarus, I get about 6-10 a winter, that the snow has blown into causing the belt to skip.

Sorry............... You are going to have to stick your head under there and look for a torn boot. A bad axle (outer CV joint) will click on a turn, left, or right.

Just how sensitive in reality is the AWD system to differences at the wheels when it comes to tires? I can only speak to automatics........... The driving force split, front/rear, is controlled by your transmission's computer, this computer takes into consideration a variety of things, engine load, gear the transmission is in, etc, but it does not take into consideration tire size. In the back of your transmission there is a small clutch pack controlled by the transmission computer that does the torque splitting between front and rear, by running different size tires you are forcing this clutch pack to slip. It was not designed to slip, at best you will burn up your automatic transmission oil (by overheating it), at worst you will tear our the clutch pack totally contaminating your transmission with bits, requiring a complete overhaul and torque converter replacement. There is a spot under hood to force your car into front wheel drive only, in this spot you plug in a standard fuse (passengers side firewall), this is for just such a situation. I can't speak to prolonged use of this (as it was never intended for prolonged use), but it will get you out of immediate trouble.

Locally WalMart does 5 qts Pennzoil for $7.99, of course it's not Pennzoil, but re-labeled Shell, and Fram (if you want them) oil filters for $3.99, that's Canadian $ folks.

Subaru makes one tough car, but the weakest part of that car is the AWD unit, be it a automatic, or manual. Running mis-matched tires is just asking for trouble, trouble easily avoided by either running 4 identical tires, or 4 tires that you have physically measured as to being identical in diameter. Your car, your call.

I've had cars that just would not stop breaking. I gotta laugh at that one. I have it figured the cheapest way to own a Dodge is to own 3+ Dodges, you pick the parts off of them as needed, and when they get looking too bad to remain in your yard, you strip it, filling your shed with the remaining parts, and send the shell away. I am almost always on the look out for $100 parts Dodges. There is not a weekend passes that "the dammed Dodge" does not eat at least 2 hours of my time. And you thought a Subaru could be a *problem*?

I *think* you have to decide if you are on the new car treadmill, or off the new car treadmill, you can't have it both ways. If you are on, you buy a new car, trading it for another every 3 years, doing minimal maintenance and having a warranty. At the end of 3 years, with some luck, you owe what it is worth, can trade it for a "fresh one", and carry on your own little merry way making monthly payments. If you are off, you buy what you can afford, though if you dodge that 3 year old trade-in, chances are you are buying, well, I won't say a bad one, but you are buying a car that the best has gone out of it, and you WILL be repairing it. I have been off the new car treadmill for a lot of years, and know that spending $1000 in repairs is NOTHING (compared to a $400 a month payment, which by the way, is 2 1/2 X $400). Maybe you simply bought the wrong car? (or didn't put enough cash into the deal, so that with your current payments you can afford repairs, notice I do not fault the car: reality check, it's 5 going on 6 years old, of course there is going to be repairs).

What are the end fitting sizes I need to go into the splitter,and the flex hose? Are they metric?Also what size is the brake line? What I do is measure the length I want, and go to my local auto parts store and ask for "10mm Japanese" brake line in the desired length, they should have it there. There are two sorts of "metric" brake line, European (with the "bubble" ends) and "Japanese" with the conventional flare ends, and of course you want the "Japanese". The thread is 10mm, I have only seen 1 size of brake line that goes with a 10mm fitting, it is really close to 3/16, I do not know the metric size.

The bolt head on the carrier bearing should be 14mm Making it a 10mm X 1.25 thread pitch.

To give you an idea of height. I have installed a 6" lift (6" blocks tied together) I picked up 1" in the front struts (the blocks are 7") and about 2" in the back using 2 wheel drive struts. I am up on 31" tires (215/85/16) Opening the drivers door, from the lower edge of the rear of the door, I am 26" off of the ground.

Having no idea what you are working on, and if you have drum brakes in the rear, I am going to assume that you put your pads on properly, making sure: 1) the pads slide freely in the caliper 2) the caliper mounts are free and lubricated 3) your caliper adapters are tight I would look to rear brake adjustment FIRST before anything else. This is not to say your system could not use flushed with clean, new, brake fluid, but a low pedal, or a pedal you can pump up, with rear drum brakes, tells me the first place to look is the rear brake adjustment to get your pedal off the floor..

Oh...........and I found here, when you lift 6", you want to lengthen the steering bit 5 1/4", I'm still working out the shifter.

Typically, the weight in such a vehicle is about a 90/10 bias with the front being the 90%, I'm not sure there would be a benefit to driving the 3rd (rear) wheel. Not only would you look at gear ratios, tire diameter on that 3rd wheel would be the deciding factor as to the ratio you want, maybe using a shaft drive motorcycle unit you would determine the final ratio of the unit (final drive+tire, or the effective final ratio) and work forwards from there, adjusting your front tire size? Here (in this neck of the woods) motorcycles do not inspect, nor do they have emissions. You have the option of licensing as "home built" (the insurance company does a double take, and adds a 1000% surcharge), or you incorporate an existing serial number (weld in the steering neck somewhere with numbers displayed where they can be seen) and go with that ownership. I have a V-6 powered trike licensed as a 400 Yamaha, no one the wiser, and affordable insurance.

and half the time it will unlock, the other time you can't get the key to turn and it wont unlock. The lock cylinder has a bit of metal in there that is about as thick as two Kleenexes, it breaks, leaving you with what you see. It is lock cylinder time (mine is the same way, I have a new lock cylinder, just haven't gotten around to it)

Would it be easier to install a D/R before or after lifting? Out the bottom (swapping transmissions leaving the engine in place) or out the top (pulling the motor)? Before if you are pulling the motor, after if you are going to drop the transmission out the bottom.

I looked at the reservoir and the oil was full of air bubbles Ok so what you are hearing is the Power steering (hydraulic) pump trying to pump air. !) check rack return line for leaks (the return line is the line without pressure fittings) and repair if necessary. 2) the next un-happy event concerns the pump, there should be a screen there somewhere that can be cleaned, but usually air gets in the system around the shaft seal, meaning seal, and, or, bearing, probably easier (and cheaper) to put a junk yard pump on it. Pay close attention to any oil removed from the system (ie: put it in a glass jar) for metal particles. ANY metal in the oil, and unless you are replacing EVERYTHING, there is a very good chance you are just wasting your time.

I am in the process of lifting my '92 Loyale. From what I have seen I would not be afraid of Scott's kit, though I am making my own lift, the only trouble spot you may have is the rear brake hoses. The stock hoses are 7" long, you can get up to 10 1/2 inch hoses in the same configuration, I *think* you might need 12 inch hoses, and all I could find were 14 inch hoses. Other than that it should be pretty smooth sailing, the bolts came out ok on my rusty east coast car.

I find those $1200-4000 cars are never what they are cracked up to what they are supposed to be. It is like buying a used motorcycle, I have never bought a used motorcycle, no matter the price, that didn't need swingarm bearings/bushings, and/or steering head bearings, used is used, do the best deal you can, but never consider it 'over'.

There is junk, and then there is JUNK.............. I buy junk, then I know exactly what I have, a new slick paint job is not hiding anything, and no one is pretending (I call those JUNK). I drag my junk home, and because I don't "have" to drive it, I have time to re-build it. I do not sweat spending $1000-2000 getting my junk "in shape" for driving down the road, $2000 is 5, count them, 5 $400 monthly payments. I average 3 years reasonably trouble free out of my re-built junk, or 36-5, or 31 months without a car payment. Yes, it's a gamble, I am gambling my time and skill, along with $2000 against $14,400 (36X400). To loose means you just have to work at it a little more. Seems like a win-win to me.

Depending on your $ situation............... Rad hoses, water pump, thermostat, belts, etc. some stuff like this you can get later, you should concentrate on the stuff that is a royal PITA to get at like your cam boxes, oil pump, etc. I would take it apart, and see what you need, chances are you will be sending the heads out to get surfaced, this will give you the time to gather up the other stuff. Fel-pro seem to be the head gaskets of choice on EA82 engines, OEM on almost everything else.

1)Are the HG's easily changed in the car? Not as easy as if you pulled the engine, but if you don't own the stuff to pull the engine you work with what you have, there is nothing you can't do with hands the size of a gnat, and fingers with 6 joints. 2)What mechanical items and gaskets should be changed while the car is apart? Anything related you take apart, VC gaskets, cam case "o" ring, intake gaskets, check heads for warpage, timing belts, re-seal oil pump.

Anyone had this problem before? It is not a "problem". Picture yourself living in a spot where your car heater is on 8 months of the year, if the air conditioner compressor did not cycle once in a while the compressor seal would go bad, this "cycling" is normal.