davebugs

Ultra Grey is a Permatex product - easy to come by. Never had an issue with it. I use it everywhere on a Suby engine. Baffle place, those cam cap corners, oil pump, oil pan. Do some searching here. It's commonly used.

I use PVC as a seal installer. The same piece works for the crank seal. A little Ultra Grey in those corners you were asking about.

2 best guesses. Slave cylinder or clutch fork - more than you'd think crack. You may want to start by bleeding the slave.

Followed by cars that whoever did the timing belt job didin't tighten the crank bolt tight enough. I just passed on another one of those this past weekend. Have too many projects now. Or generic plug wires on a 2.5. They are pretty much bullet proof other than the HG's and stupidity.

Skip isn't online much anymore. Drop me a PM if you'd like more info.

The slave - is that where you're asking? Look at where the engine and trans meet. Basically under the air box and dogbone. You can follow the line to the master cylinder on the firewall to it as well. They can be a bugger to bleed.

Good luck as a fellow VW fan. I try not to get too exotic with any car. I stick mostly to TDI's but just bought a 2002 VR6 GTI that needs engine work - fella didn't have the tensioners checked. Needs an engine at 90k. Bet that 4 motion will fly. A note. I usually do the 95-99's. Only 2.5 SOHC I have done was a nightmare. Several engines to get a good one. The GF's 2006 Impreza seems to be doing well but she doesn't do the miles she used to (not having a job will do that). Pushing 80k? with no issues yet. Too bad about the luck you had. But I'd try a Suabru again if the opportunity arrises. In the meantime have fun with the VW.

GG, PM me for info or (now I forget - Borla) replacements local to me. The Audi's get pretty expensive to fix pretty quickly. That's why I stay with the VW's. I hope to be around next week and may know some folks who know some Audi folks..... But I'd need to know specifically what was needed.

If you strike out and wanna drive I believe I have 4 good Green doors still on a car. I usually tear them down a bit. Sell mirrors, window switches, etc.

If it has rod knock - 2.2 swap. Otherwise COMPLETE head gasket job and major maintenance. That's my deciding factor.

EGR or not? (auto or stick). I'm thinking no on the '90 but I don't know. I usually stick to 95-99's. Someone else here should know or point you to a chart or previous thread thought.

There was actually a thread about this in the last year. Don't think it ever came to a real conclusion. Which probably means that aftermarket is o.k. Often I have agood used one - but am starting run a bit low. I use OEM myself when I need a new one. Not enough of a price difference to gamble for me.

Which place did you buy it from. I'm about ready to start a few LED experiments and am electrically challenged. I did however invest in CREE some time ago and it's been a VERY good ride. I'd expect it to slow down soon for a bit though. I have a few LED's at the house, and have seen them used in cars. Much better light. City's and College's switching to LED's all over the globe.

I love Lucas PS if it's a problem with the rack. I've tried it several times for pump troubles on Suby's with no luck. YMMV

I'm sure any major parts store will have a similar product. I've personally used this in probably 50 Suby's by now with no known issues. That's the only reason I said something. If you are the one that has been driving the car and haven't dumped miracle sures in it and didn't let too much carbon/ick build up you'll be o.k.

I always send the radiator out to be flushed and pressure tested. Usually folks have tried miracle cures before I buy the car to fix it. I've gone to the Advance Auto parts universal coolant. Looks like Mtn. Dew kinda yellow green. Don't know if you have that chain of parts stores up there. The Subaru dark green stuff is very pricey.

They usually leak at t ametal gasket smack dab in the middle of the pump for me. Others here have had the Oring at the bottom of the reservoir leak. Last I checked the rebuild kit was like 20 bucks - same as a used pump. I install used.

That's simply dry gas. Many uses. Including cleaning new wiper blades. Getting harder to but bottles with screw on threads though. I never use it for the purpose it was bottled for. PB Blaster works well. Infact PB and perhaps a little scotchbrite is how I remove JY paint stick.

2 comments. I've done my fair share of these and don't recall a sensor in any Outback radiator. Second - it seems 96 and some 97's take a different (more pricey) radiator. May I sugest that you look at the bottom plastic pegs and see it they are the whole way out at the ends under the plastic tank on both ends or lets say 3-4 inches toward the center from where the tank meets the aluminum to make sure you get the correct rad. I just got the wrong one from the radiator barn but they seem like they are gonna be good about taking it back. Mine was for a 97. Luckily I scrounged around and had a servicable used one around here. The ones with the pegs closer to the middle are more rare and pricey.

http://www.theimportexperts.com/ They used to be on Ebay all the time. They have a real local parts place and sometimes that is how they answer the phone. Infact I can't understand Roberto so I ask for one of the other guys. I just look for old emails since I'm always doing something non-standard. Getting an extra cogged pulley for stock, getting a new style tensioner and an idler for the old style at the same time, etc. I haven't bought anything from them since September probably. Garage has been tied up and I've been out of town working. But I just supplied my last idler set for a HG job last week so I'm all out. They handle the PCI kits w/GMB bearings in the idlers. Others gotta be similar. I've rarely had a problem and when I did these folks handled it well. I tend to keep doing business with the same folks until they loose it due to product, service, or significant price difference.

After being recommended here I use "theimportexperts" idler kits. Get all 3 belts (timing, 2 accessory) locally (Dayco), and get all gaskets and seals from the dealer. I do sometimes use FelPro for intake, exhaust, and VC. That combo works for me. I've probably done 20+ 2.5s with this combo and more 2.2's (minus the HG's).

I believe they used to also have 1stvwparts. I never had luck buying VW or Subaru parts from them. They were the only online Subaru OEM vendor that I had tried. If you do enough Suby work your dealer parts dept will treat you decent. And with no shipping and getting the parts quicker.

Lost my reply. But please post what the problem ends up being. I have the same problem and have never had troubles with the wireing before. Originally I could clear the CEL. Now it just blinks one time when I clear it and stays on. When I get the car dug out I'll be poking around, but I'm electrically challanged so any pointers would be appreciated.

Yea. The O rings are easy. The large headed bracket bolt can be tough.

Well, first of all you're actually working with a 95 knock sensor. And IIR the 95 2.2 and the 98 2.5 are different. I'm about to go through the same process with a 97 2.5 that I just had the HG's done in since my garage is tied up. I think I only have 3-4 knock sensors in the drawer (probably more on parts engines) and I believe they are all for the later model 2.5's and are different than the 95 2.2. Infact I think the connector is different. Could be wrong. If you find a weird problem please post it. When I dig out from the snow I'll be playing with the same issue myself.