subaru360

I reverse the order. It probably doesn't matter.

There are 2 different crank gears. One has about 20 small teeth on the back where it triggers the crank sensor the other has about 5 large teeth. The difference is obvious.

None taken, if you get it, good for you, it's just a car to me, there will be more.

The engines are the same. 8 bolt pattern didn't appear on the impreza until 99. Both 97 and 98 2.2 5 speed had no egr. If this is the black Impreza coupe in Allentown on Nasioc, I have the current highest offer on it.

What engine? An older phase 1 EJ22 it doesn't really matter what brand gaskets you use, they hardly ever fail. A Phase 1 EJ25 you MUST use the latest subaru gaskets or it will fail again. The phase 2 engines I use factory gaskets in as well. Reseal the oil pump and seperator plate, do the cam and crank seals as well.

FYI Harry's hazelton has nothing old school. I was there about a week ago and all the subarus were Early 90's +

Break the cam pulley bolt loose before you take the belt off. Lots easier that way. But count the teeth on the back first, if it's the same, no need to swap them.

If the cam gear is different, the car won't start, so you need to swap it. Use the complete intake from the original engine. That will have all the connections needed for the sensor and solenoid on the strut tower.

Good luck. Hotels booked up months ago, plus they found all kinds of natural gas in the area, so the hotels are also full of drillers etc. Last year we ended up sleeping in the back of the wagon. If you got in a campground, you're doing good.

Swap the whole intake and also check the back of the cam gear on the drivers side where it triggers the sensor, count the teeth that trigger the sensor. There are two different ones.

I've seen bad 2.2 headgaskets. But they were always due to something else, usually a cooling system problem where it overheated or improper installation when the engine was apart previously. I've never seen 2.2 gaskets just go on their own. But I have read about it happening.

yes

On an 02 impreza wagon, use forester struts/springs to lift it. You'll want the forester trailing arm brackets for the rear too, to center the wheel in the wheel well.

Undo the flexplate to converter bolts. Push the converter all the way back. Undo the 4 engine to trans nuts and bolts. Seperate the engine and trans. You'll probably have to pry them apart on an older subaru. They will split a good 3-4" apart with the engine still in the car on the mounts. That will give you a good look at the flexplate. The flexplates usually crack around the bolt holes. Sometimes they crack all the way around and the car won't start.

slap a set of fender flares on that and it wouldn't be so bad.

Upstate NY. The bolts and flanges are going to be totally rotted away and will fall apart when you touch them. Plan on just replacing everything from the cat back. Or take it to a muffler place and have them weld it up.

I would do the 2.2 swap rather than risk a 3rd failure. It is extremely straightforward as long as you get the correct 2.2 engine. If you had the engine of a loyale, you can do this swap.

I use 2. I leave the one that screws into the exhaust pipe intact. I drill the second one out all the way.

I've used all of those brands, duralast (probably made by somebody else), dayco and goodyear. No problems with any of them.

I like exedy. They make the oem cluches for subaru. ACT is ok by me too.

Maybe in your area it might be worth it. Do you have U pull type junkyards? If so forget a part out. We have them here and they are loaded with gen 1 legacys. So people can buy anything they need for $20, making partouts of those cars unprofitable and pointless.

It will work fine. Engine will be interference. The older phase 1's had deeper notches for the valves in the pistons.

Dohc intake won't bolt onto sohc heads. You are thinking of a turbo clutch. This is not.

Subaru doesn't have a fuel pump reset switch of any sort. If the belt came off it bent valves. Sorry.

Just get in there and break out the remnants of the old one with a hammer and screwdriver. Then you'll be left with a tin shell. Get between that and the body of the oil pump and pry it out. Don't let anything fall in the hole. If you do, take off the timing cover and get it out before running the engine.