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if you have the key....try cycling the key on and off 4 or 5 times.......(dont crank engine or start car) just between off and on/accessory.....

WOW! in all luck i will hit that mark in about 5,000 miles.....

http://www.Tirerack.com ......got my Kumhos from them......great service and great prices.....

glad to hear it was something simple.....

on this topic......the other day i got a car from a customer who complained about a horrid grinding/squealing noise......got the car in the air and wouldnt you know i found a rock between the backing plate and the rotor.....

really? JB weld can withstand that kind of heat?.....thanks for that tip rooster it may come in handy in the future......

not saying that it cant happen from a flat tire....but are you sure the noise wasnt there before you had your flat? its not like a humming sound is it? if you have the means definately do a through visual inspection of the car before anything else......how many miles are on this wrx? automatic? manual?

from what it seems all subarus have had wheel bearing problems......especially the newer legacys and outbacks....we get them all the time at work.....i think the svx was also prone to wheel bearing failures.....anyways yes i would def. check the wheel bearings.....

ive heard before that people do it every other oil change (6k-8k miles)....

how exactly was the tire fixed? they didnt put that green slime in it did they? patch/ plug? are you sure its most acurately defined as a "swish"?....

also.....take a look at your pinch welds....there are very small water drain slits that run all the way down the pinch weld.....it is pretty common that those get clogged up over time....you could just take a flat blade screwdriver and hammer and make sure they are opened up all the way.....

is this the new 09 forester?

take it for a cruise and drive it in some tight circles and make sure it feels smooth (no vibration)....not to sure if torque bind is common in this year but in my 96 it was....

my ABS diag. pins were a pain to find also.......they had them woud up in elec. tape...

i think they are excellant.i have one for my 96 Legacy L..the first time i did my clutch i went entirely by the haynes repair manual and only ran across 1 minor glitch in the steps....

just another suggestion...take a look at the pulley with the engine running and the bolt tight...does it wobble?......when i bought my 96 legacy my crank pulley was actually bent....

ah yes we just recieved that coolant were i work.....i couldnt believe they said the change interval was 11 years.......well def. loose some work there....

there was a very informative post a while ago here by a guy i believe by the name jamal......anyways according to his post your rotors should be the 260x22mm size.... also not sure if you have NAPA out there but i buy alot of parts from them and so far they have held up pretty well.....

we used 5-30 at the Subie dealer were i work for all Subarus...however i felt it was always better to use a little heavier weight when you have a high mileage car.....i put 10-30 in my legacy......PCV is only a few bucks and a few turns of a 19mm so i would throw one on (cant hurt at that mileage)

check out this http://www.streetsideauto.com/productlist.asp?brand=BBWQ&lsbYear=1998&lsbMakes=SUBARU&lsbModels=LEGACY&lsbSubModels=L&LookupType=YMM&ParentID=7&SubID=7&ptid=4555 :)

radiator is pretty simple to replace.....drain system....pop off brackets.....hoses.....fans.......it kind off just pulls right out.......it shouldnt take more than maybe and hour or two...while your doing it you might want to consider also changing the upper and lower rad. hoses......it def. cant hurt to change the gear oil at this point.....besides you will get to see how much metal from your gears is on your drain plug.......

-QUOTE-now i gotta find out why my 92 doesn't like 4th gear,almost feels like it's kicking it out of gear..to the point where i gotta hold it in gear.of course it doesn't do it with a load on trans,only if i let off gas..(gotta get under it one of these days and check trans mounts)-QUOTE- subie 94- my 96 had the exact same problem with 4th gear a few miles back....i checked all my mounts and they were all ok.....but eventually when i tried to hold it in gear it would grind its ars off...and eventually i lost 4th gear.....plus i needed a new viscous coupler....i ended up just replacing the trans with one with like 93,000 miles on it.....than again the origional held up good until like 190,000 miles.......anyways just thought i would share.....

automatic or manual trans?....sometimes it is possible for it to "repair" its self (mostly in automatics i believe) with repeated flushes or changes of the transmission fluid and using an additive/conditioner do a search on the forum or take a look down at the bottom for the "related threads" on this topic....there is tons of info out there..... by the way welcome to the forum....

wow....very informative..... thanks for the great write-up!

wow....very informative..... thanks for the great write-up!