Numbchux

Good eye, no we did not use the full safety gear. Because we were not going 100%. This was to make sure our DBW software issue was resolved, and the new suspension was set up well. And for some publicity photo runs. Very much like a press stage at a national rally (fire suits not required there either). In fact, most of the runs were with the crew/photogs in the codriver seat, I don't think any of us tried to read the notes.

With the help of a very nice MN DNR officer, along with his superiors, and the local sheriff, we were able to use a small (~3miles) Dead-end road not too far away (no, I won't say where) to do some testing at-speed. And a big thanks to Angled Lines for taking some great video clips, and putting together a sweet video of the new car. Check it out! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36DEYftc__w Don't forget to bump up the video quality in YouTube, all footage was taken in 1080p!

Yep, your best bet is a wrecked car. Anything else will have quite a bit of value as a repairable. Watch ebay, copart (be aware of the fees added onto the list price), craigslist, etc. etc.

sort of....problem is, the EA81 and EA82 body styles overlapped for a few years. The EA82 versions are referred to as a coupe, and the EA81 version is referred to as a hatch When you say "hatchback", we think of this:

This happened on the '86 wagon I had a few years ago after the EJ22 swap. I noticed that when it was happening, that the fuel tank was VERY pressurized, and if I left the filler loose it stopped. I came to the conclusion that the vapor separator was gummed up. Oddly enough, by leaving the cap loose for a couple weeks, and capping off the vent line where the gas was coming from. The problem resolved itself....

I would not consider a 4-cylinder, as the 6-cylinders are much better in just about every way, except they don't fit in most subarus. The cool thing about the XT6, is it has the longer engine bay for the 6-cylinder, so the EG33 (3.3l H6 from the SVX) fits like a glove. Granted....a tighter glove than it was with the ER27, but the radiator still fits where it should be, which is not possible in other subaru models. The SVXs were made from '92-'97, and in fairly small numbers. but they were plagued with transmission problems, so parts cars can be had for a decent price if you're willing to go pick it up. And parts are valuable. A friend of mine bought a rusty SVX with transmission problems, kept the wiring and engine, and paid for a build Cusco WRX 5-speed with the profits from the partout. Now he has one of the fastest GCs I've ever ridden in. IMO the EZ series engines are even better, but they are only 10 years old....which of course means more expensive. And since they were just Outbacks, the parts are not that valuable. I'm not a big fan of the FT4WD drivetrain in the XT6s. But what is cool, is your transmission mount and front axles are a perfect fit for the new-gen 5-speeds. Get a version with a 3.9 axle ratio, and you won't even have to swap the rear diff. You'll have to modify the shift linkage a bit, and have the driveshaft shortened 2". But that's cheaper than an adapter plate, and you'll get a better clutch and true AWD.

I mis-spoke......yea, '85 only. I was thinking it was part of the other changes that happened in '87 (trim, bumpers, grill, dash, etc.). But yea, the '86 I had for a year had the newer style.

'85s and '86s were like that. '87+ (possibly '87.5) had the other style.

I was under the impression that swapping bellhousing is no small project. I've never been able to get one off a transmission that I wasn't trying to save (tried it twice....). Automatic transmissions are the one thing on a car that I don't freakin understand, or work on, so I'm no expert. But I think I'd still go with the adapter plate....

Haha, thanks. But I am just one of about 10 people who donated a lot of time and knowledge to make these projects happen.

Friend of mine is finishing up his swap. it's an '87 GL-10, '92 EJ22 with '97 ECU/wiring/intake manifold. Got it all hooked up, and everything works as it should.....EXCEPT the tach. It worked fine with the EA82t. I double checked the signal wire, it is connected to the correct pin at the cluster and the ECU. Now, the signal for the EA82s come straight from the coil, regardless of whether it's a digital or analog cluster, so it seems to me that they should both work with the EJ signal....but I could be wrong. thoughts?

(too many pictures for one post.....) back from stickers, and out in the daylight... Full gallery....353 pictures :blackeye: http://www.sieglerphoto.com/Cars/171-V20-build/17244598_5RjBZH#1308953210_mMCq3Lp Better pictures of the damage to the old chassis: http://www.sieglerphoto.com/Car-events/rally/RallyMN-2011/17244462_sTbp6W#1308943386_9wgxxdX At the same event, #858 had a slow roll It now looks like this:

So, last May we had a rally based out of Park Rapids, MN. Carl entered a corner too fast, threw the car sideways to bleed off speed, but still hit the outer embankment at close to 100mph. They wound up a ways down the road facing the wrong direction.....and sore. They both walked away, the roll cage did it's job, but the whole unibody was tweaked. We got home, and the car entered the garage like this: Couple weeks later, it was on the trailer, looking like this, and ready to head off to the farm: And, this arrived (actually, it arrived a couple weeks before the shell was stripped....but whatever) Before too long: Stitch welding all the seams for rigidity: Add a wagon-load of DOM: And a fairly sketchy tubing-notcher (I'm the blurry one....): gussets and seat brackets: off for powdercoat: back from powdercoat, green parts are rear suspension crossmember and diff hanger: wiring, dash, switches, trip computer, etc. body panels. AIT fiberglass widebody fenders, jdm STi aluminum hood, 2.5RS front bumper Engine (2011 STi shortblock with manley 11:1 pistons, 2004 STi heads with mild porting and stock cams. GT2871 turbo. GEMS engine management tuned for anti-lag and launch control): Rear diff and suspension installed (crossmembers and adjustable links by tssfab) TSSFab tubular engine crossmember and custom equal-length header: light pods and fog light covers back from paint: Lexan, removable rear quarter windows and STi wing Light pods (HID bulbs, and ballasts mounted in the pods) Startup, idle, and anti-lag video (click the pic!)

struts are "dampers" for a macpherson setup. EJ subarus use struts at all 4 corners.....springs are not part of the struts. Air suspension doesn't have springs. It has a strut assembly with airbags in place of springs. So you'll need struts and springs (and spring perches, and possibly top hats) to convert to conventional suspension. If your air struts are blown and riding on the bump stops, stock suspension for a standard legacy will give you an inch or 2, easily. But you can mix and match standard legacy parts and outback parts. OB struts will gain you a couple inches, springs will probably get another.

Really? You get all butthurt when he criticizes your "rig", and then you go out of your way to instigate something? Wow, you're a special one. On the topic....I'm curious to see if this one makes it to trail-ready

heh heh heh.....Cool!

There's a few different torque converters that were used over the years....so there might be some combination of flexplate/TC that would work. But modifying a flywheel is not hard, and a flex plate is about a tenth the thickness.....I wouldn't even bother beyond a quick test-fit of parts already in arms-reach.

What did you use for wheel bearing seals? I know the EJ inner seal has completely different dimensions than XT6 ones. We're working on this right now with the loyale formerly known as the FrankenWagon. It's been 4-lug since I put a non-turbo transmission and such in it 2 years ago when I sold it. Current owner is re-5-lug swapping it, but keeping the non-turbo trans. With 3 XT6 axles, 5 non-turbo EA82 axles, and a bunch of other random parts, we managed to make one 23-spline XT6 axle. The one 23-spline inner cup that worked came off a remanufactured axle that had a larger shaft than any of the other EA82 axles we have. Also, the 3 complete XT6 axles are not the same, and the broken XT6 shaft that came out of my '89 after the accident is different still. I'm not sure exactly what cars they all came off of, but they were definitely all AWD. I know with about 99% certainty that FWD Legacies got beefier front axles (DOJs and shafts), but they are completely interchangeable with AWD axles. I suspect the same is true of EA82 FWD axles, and since they are interchangeable, aftermarket companies superseded them with the same part number. Meaning, when he went in a bought a remanufactured axle for his 4WD subaru, they gave him a FWD axle. It worked completely but is actually slightly different. *breath* This means a few things. While there are only 2 different outer splines (4-lug and 5-lug), and 2 different inner splines (23 and 25), there are a whole lot more combinations of joints, races, and shafts. This means that there are many axles that are different, but interchangeable, so, who knows what you might find. At the end of the day, we made one axle with the parts we had, but I have no clue what those parts are originally off of, since they were obviously different than the other axles that were on the same donor cars.

Yep, they are being imported...still very expensive though. I've been on the hunt for a FSM that covers the diesels, haven't found one. I'm VERY curious how the fuel controls and such work, and how hard it would be to transplant one. I WILL have a diesel subaru.

Hehe, AWESOME!! I absolutely love those Pinzgauers!! An OM617 would be sweet, but a VW TDi would be amazing!

Yea, if the boot is torn, stuff a bunch of chassis grease in there.....if the problem goes away, get that axle re-booted while it's a $10 fix instead of a $100 fix.

both probably stiffer than you'll need, but might work out OK. 2.5" springs are easy to come by if you want to change it up.

Yes, because magazine automatically = awesome. I've had my 4" lifted '88 wagon in 2 different magazines (SubiSport and 4WD And Sport Utility). I might have had a grand into it. We know the COG is too high to be useful because those tires are completely, 100% below the body work. You could fiberglass over the wheel wells entirely and still not have any tire clearance issues. You're obviously just building this thing to put a mod list on the windshield and park it on flat ground at a car show and impress people with how much money you spent on it. And if that's what you want, than cool. knock yourself out. I could build 5 or 6 dream rigs for the money you've put into this. And it's probably not any more capable than it was when you bought it. It would look good on some Thornbirds!

To any future members that search for the 5-lug swap and find this thread. Thank you so much for searching, you're on the right track!!!! But this comment is entirely false, continue your search for correct information elsewhere.