Numbchux

AW4 and A340 are the same transmissions, sans bellhousing, and transfer case. They are mechanically, and electrically interchangeable. (AW stands for Aisin-Warner, which if you do much with toyotas is a familiar name...) The bolt pattern between the AW4/A340 and bellhousing is very different from the W series bellhousing pattern. So, no, Bill's housing will not get a RWD or true 4WD auto trans behind a subaru motor as-is He has done the work of making a divorced bellhousing with an EJ pattern at the engine. That's a HUGE start. For the record, assuming my brat reaches the point of a divorced tcase setup, I would MUCH prefer an automatic. I'm not going to say that I will be buying one, as that would be a lie, but there's a good chance. The AW4/A340 would be the perfect option too, as there is a cheap and simple rail shifter available that would allow full manual control and no need for a computer to control it. http://radesignsproducts.com/14Shiftcontrollers.aspx

That's a very well-formatted write-up, but mediocre on the information. There are SOOOO many different ways to do it, so it's hard to put together one comprehensive "how-to". But, by far the best one I've seen is this one: (this link has the discussion, but the image links are dead) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87403 (and with the new pictures) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97074 In order to use 5-lug outers, and EA81 track width, your only good option for front axles is cut-and-weld, so use what you have, measure carefully, and make it what you need. There might be an EA81 axle shaft that would work with a 5-lug CV joint, but they rarely come apart in usable shape. Also, if it's an EJ knuckle, it's shaped differently to improve dynamic toe and ackerman. But that means the CV is a bit further out (the hub offset is a bit less to keep the track width and scrub radius the same). also, just a thought: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1057378

If your brake pads are rubbing on your rotor hats....you got a bigger problem than rust!

Gas tank hung, mounts need to be beefed up, but it's hanging from the truck. Test-fitted the shock too now that the tank is there. started installing this '82 supra LSD in the front diff: and in the housing. With a little modification, the 4runner stubs clipped right into the supra carrier. And while I had it apart, I knocked the studs out of the axle flanges, still have to grind out the splines so I can re-install the studs as bolts. And, soldered a tee fitting with a reducer so I can attach one of the heater hoses to the upper radiator hose.

^a bit more than 4" of lift :-p

Looking through my collection for some clear pics of my wagons that would be good for size comparison (on flat, hard ground). This ones only 3" lift, but with 29" tires: And this one's a 4" lift with slightly smaller tires and less trimming: (not the greatest pic, but the loyale was at stock FWD height.) stock tires in the front, 28s in the back: a few minutes later: Next to a stock-height 4WD EA81: next to a stock-height 4WD EA82: Next to a lowered Loyale: And next to a YJ on 31s:

little work with a sawzall and drill, and a piece of angle-steel, and I made a holder to use the toyota throttle cable:

got the rear disc swap finished and the front hubs re-redrilled pretty soon after my last post. Then I didn't get out there for months. But, I got out there today. I re-installed the wire from the battery to the fusible link box, along with new battery terminals. I was planning on doing some POR15 work on the rust spots......but instead I went out and screwed around in the back 40. Then the guy who owns the shop came home, and decided to get out his rally car (the rally car hasn't been home for some time since it went off for paint, and then was at another guy's place for trailer modifications) and he came out to join me:

Long time without a major update. Lots of tinkering, lots of frustration. But, with winter coming, I needed an upgrade for the shelter over the truck. So...I got a nice roundtop shelter on sale at Menards. It's got a much beefier frame, thicker tarp, and the tarp is only 3 pieces instead of the 5 of the last one. Earlier this week, I started cutting the stock 4-link bracketry off the FJ axle: I was pretty sure that the distributor was not set right. So when I couldn't sleep last night, I started searching for good information on how to get it set. Suddenly I realized that every diagram I found online showing the firing order and spark plug wires was a mirror image of the one in my Chevy FSM, which I used when I installed the plug wires long ago. So, this morning, I went out and pulled the plug wires off, and re-did them. Turned the key, and the fuel pump didn't kick on. After some messing around with it, I realized that the fuel in the tank had definitely gone bad. Just a reminder of how long I've been working on this, I've already put fresh gas in the tank once since I started this swap...... So, while it was draining out, I got out the cutting tools, and went to town on the hood: Then I got a temporary fuel system setup so I could get some fresh gas to the motor: And...... Just open headers, no radiator hoses, ignition coil power wire just wedged in the positive battery terminal, etc. etc. But, there's a light at the end of the tunnel.

Yep. 100% direct swap.

raw footage from one of the runs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh1s0gJ6uhI

Good eye, no we did not use the full safety gear. Because we were not going 100%. This was to make sure our DBW software issue was resolved, and the new suspension was set up well. And for some publicity photo runs. Very much like a press stage at a national rally (fire suits not required there either). In fact, most of the runs were with the crew/photogs in the codriver seat, I don't think any of us tried to read the notes.

With the help of a very nice MN DNR officer, along with his superiors, and the local sheriff, we were able to use a small (~3miles) Dead-end road not too far away (no, I won't say where) to do some testing at-speed. And a big thanks to Angled Lines for taking some great video clips, and putting together a sweet video of the new car. Check it out! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36DEYftc__w Don't forget to bump up the video quality in YouTube, all footage was taken in 1080p!

Yep, your best bet is a wrecked car. Anything else will have quite a bit of value as a repairable. Watch ebay, copart (be aware of the fees added onto the list price), craigslist, etc. etc.

sort of....problem is, the EA81 and EA82 body styles overlapped for a few years. The EA82 versions are referred to as a coupe, and the EA81 version is referred to as a hatch When you say "hatchback", we think of this:

This happened on the '86 wagon I had a few years ago after the EJ22 swap. I noticed that when it was happening, that the fuel tank was VERY pressurized, and if I left the filler loose it stopped. I came to the conclusion that the vapor separator was gummed up. Oddly enough, by leaving the cap loose for a couple weeks, and capping off the vent line where the gas was coming from. The problem resolved itself....

I would not consider a 4-cylinder, as the 6-cylinders are much better in just about every way, except they don't fit in most subarus. The cool thing about the XT6, is it has the longer engine bay for the 6-cylinder, so the EG33 (3.3l H6 from the SVX) fits like a glove. Granted....a tighter glove than it was with the ER27, but the radiator still fits where it should be, which is not possible in other subaru models. The SVXs were made from '92-'97, and in fairly small numbers. but they were plagued with transmission problems, so parts cars can be had for a decent price if you're willing to go pick it up. And parts are valuable. A friend of mine bought a rusty SVX with transmission problems, kept the wiring and engine, and paid for a build Cusco WRX 5-speed with the profits from the partout. Now he has one of the fastest GCs I've ever ridden in. IMO the EZ series engines are even better, but they are only 10 years old....which of course means more expensive. And since they were just Outbacks, the parts are not that valuable. I'm not a big fan of the FT4WD drivetrain in the XT6s. But what is cool, is your transmission mount and front axles are a perfect fit for the new-gen 5-speeds. Get a version with a 3.9 axle ratio, and you won't even have to swap the rear diff. You'll have to modify the shift linkage a bit, and have the driveshaft shortened 2". But that's cheaper than an adapter plate, and you'll get a better clutch and true AWD.

I mis-spoke......yea, '85 only. I was thinking it was part of the other changes that happened in '87 (trim, bumpers, grill, dash, etc.). But yea, the '86 I had for a year had the newer style.

'85s and '86s were like that. '87+ (possibly '87.5) had the other style.

I was under the impression that swapping bellhousing is no small project. I've never been able to get one off a transmission that I wasn't trying to save (tried it twice....). Automatic transmissions are the one thing on a car that I don't freakin understand, or work on, so I'm no expert. But I think I'd still go with the adapter plate....

Haha, thanks. But I am just one of about 10 people who donated a lot of time and knowledge to make these projects happen.

Friend of mine is finishing up his swap. it's an '87 GL-10, '92 EJ22 with '97 ECU/wiring/intake manifold. Got it all hooked up, and everything works as it should.....EXCEPT the tach. It worked fine with the EA82t. I double checked the signal wire, it is connected to the correct pin at the cluster and the ECU. Now, the signal for the EA82s come straight from the coil, regardless of whether it's a digital or analog cluster, so it seems to me that they should both work with the EJ signal....but I could be wrong. thoughts?

(too many pictures for one post.....) back from stickers, and out in the daylight... Full gallery....353 pictures :blackeye: http://www.sieglerphoto.com/Cars/171-V20-build/17244598_5RjBZH#1308953210_mMCq3Lp Better pictures of the damage to the old chassis: http://www.sieglerphoto.com/Car-events/rally/RallyMN-2011/17244462_sTbp6W#1308943386_9wgxxdX At the same event, #858 had a slow roll It now looks like this:

So, last May we had a rally based out of Park Rapids, MN. Carl entered a corner too fast, threw the car sideways to bleed off speed, but still hit the outer embankment at close to 100mph. They wound up a ways down the road facing the wrong direction.....and sore. They both walked away, the roll cage did it's job, but the whole unibody was tweaked. We got home, and the car entered the garage like this: Couple weeks later, it was on the trailer, looking like this, and ready to head off to the farm: And, this arrived (actually, it arrived a couple weeks before the shell was stripped....but whatever) Before too long: Stitch welding all the seams for rigidity: Add a wagon-load of DOM: And a fairly sketchy tubing-notcher (I'm the blurry one....): gussets and seat brackets: off for powdercoat: back from powdercoat, green parts are rear suspension crossmember and diff hanger: wiring, dash, switches, trip computer, etc. body panels. AIT fiberglass widebody fenders, jdm STi aluminum hood, 2.5RS front bumper Engine (2011 STi shortblock with manley 11:1 pistons, 2004 STi heads with mild porting and stock cams. GT2871 turbo. GEMS engine management tuned for anti-lag and launch control): Rear diff and suspension installed (crossmembers and adjustable links by tssfab) TSSFab tubular engine crossmember and custom equal-length header: light pods and fog light covers back from paint: Lexan, removable rear quarter windows and STi wing Light pods (HID bulbs, and ballasts mounted in the pods) Startup, idle, and anti-lag video (click the pic!)