Numbchux

I'm really not sure what you're looking for..... You said in your first post that you're considering using Fuel Injection. FI means ECU, period. There are options for a carbed setup for most subie engines before 1997 or so that wouldn't require an ECU. But with a little wiring, the fuel-injection will be a turnkey setup with great torque and mileage. If you're unsure of the wiring, there are many people (myself included, check out the link in my signature) that can strip your donor harness down to a standalone harness that wouldn't be much harder to wire up than a carb setup (couple power wires, and a few signal wires for gauges/lights if you like), and run perfect from the get-go.

Welcome! I definitely like to hear people using Subie engines in other applications (I've helped with a number of porsche/vw based projects). I would highly recommend choosing something other than an Ea82. If you're going for light and simple, go with an EA81. They might be kind of hard to find in texas, but they're a much simpler engine. Otherwise, I'd suggest going EJ series. Not much more complex than the Ea82s, but much more reliable, and more common. Whatever you do, if you're going fuel-injected, you'll need much of the wiring from the car. In which case, I always recommend getting a whole donor car (crashed, or with some other failure.....transmission or something). This way you know you have everything, and the condition of the engine.

All 6MTs listed on this chart (only through 2007), regardless of market, use a 3.9 rear diff. The 4.111 and 4.444 STi options where with 5MTs, which AFAIK, still used an r160.

read the thread. it's already been discussed here.

My money is on a rear axle broken.

The rear suspension changed drastically in 2000. Look at the picture on that ebay ad, rears are completely different. you're looking for '96-'99 outbacks.

I believe the struts alone are about 1.5" taller. You don't need to use the springs, but you'll gain a bit more from them.

maybe in a nissan. AFAIK, all subaru r180s are 3.9. at least through 2007 I know all r160 internals swap. I would assume the same would be true with the r180

I know. The post I was responding to just said Z-cars. and I don't know them very well, so I was trying to get some clarification. I could have access to a Z31 diff and an STi diff. so if I was mistaken and the Z31 was an r180, I could possibly make a comparison.

There are studs in the engine block for the bottom 2 holes. The 4 in the middle are just for dowels. Re-use the stockers. The top 4 should have bolts, they have to be a pretty precise length to get full engagement but not bottom out. You'll have to drill out the threads on the engine bellhousing so you can bolt the plate to the engine block, and then install like normal. My MRose adapter plates used fairly standard threads, so the hardware could easily bought at a hardware store. I would assume SJR did the same, but I'm not sure. I do know a couple guys with unused SJR plates....I could see if they have any more info.

hmmmm....interesting. I knew the Ea81s had a smaller trans tunnel....but I figured the vacuum diaphragm would be close enough to the engine bay that it wouldn't be an issue. good to know!

hmmm....interesting. Pretty sure my dad's Z31 is an r200.

what are you putting it in that you don't have room for the stock vacuum diaphragm? depending on what exactly your space problems are, you might be able to just un-bolt it from the trans and relocate it. Other than that, it'll have to be custom. A cable directly to the lever on the center diff housing will definitely be the simplest. Get creative with the zzz and

There are a TON of different ways to go with that. Just have to decide what you want, how much you want to spend, and how you'll use them. If you're wheeling in the trees, roof lights have a pretty good chance of getting damaged. so I'd err on the cheap side. Hella 500s are a pretty common option, seems to be a pretty good compromise of cost and quality. Personally I'd just go to wal-mart/northern tool/harbor freight/local auto parts store and grab a set of generic off-road flood lights. That's what I had on the roof of the PoopenVagon. Worked great for lighting up the trails at night. I plan to do the same on the 4runner. If you're mounting them on the roof, you probably won't be able to use them on the street without getting hassled by the popo, so no need for pencil/driving beams. I'd suggest looking for a fog/flood pattern. As for wiring, I tucked the wires under the B-pillar trim, and then out at the upper-front corner of the rear door. Kept them out of harms way, and pretty close to the roof rack too.

Zs are an r200, though, aren't they? USDM STis had a 3.9 too. But they're not cheap. in theory the R&P should intherchange

clutch disc on backwards?

Anything will fit.....zzz Consider the body will be higher up Re the frame because you'll have 2 frames. So you'll have more vertical clearance. Also, due to how far forward the transmission is with the subaru drivetrain. By using a divorced tcase and front axle, you'll be able to move the whole drivetrain back quite a bit. Yea, you'll have to get creative with the radiator and stuff, but I'm sure it could be done.

yea, get the axle to move, or sometimes a flathead screwdriver in the notch to force it to expand. Also, a torch pointed right at the washer will usually get it to pop out too. also, the rotor is bolted to the hub, so either unbolt the rotor (EDIT: I see you already did this), or remove the caliper.

Bump. Just got back from Sno*Drift. Got a couple other projects lined up. Since I don't know what's going on with this one, I don't dare start it, so I guess it's going down to the basement. Whoever you are, please contact me!!

The factory foglights are great for the factory application. But for something that's going to be custom anyway, you can do a lot better for a fraction of the price!

I had 5" extensions on my '88, and with only 1" drop on the diff, I blew up 2 rear axles in about a half a day worth of wheeling. swapped to a 2" diff drop and 4" extensions, and never had a problem again. So there definitely is a limit. Only way to re-center the wheel is to lower the whole suspension crossmember. Which is not a good idea if you actually plan on wheeling it, as it'll make a major hangup point and weak link. Good news is, due to the trailing arm being where it is, the tire will never get any closer to the body in front of the tire. So if it's not touching now, it won't be a problem.

I don't think he had rod failure. He blew the piston ringlands apart a couple times due to a lean condition.

reddevil milling Phase 2 EJ251 rods to accept STi pistons: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17334554&postcount=784 He was running 20+ psi, twin-charged, through it about 50 miles later.

Check out my post in your other thread....

lol. Yea. Still gets out to Gilbert about once a year. Definitely not road-worthy anymore