Numbchux

85 and 86 EA82s had the adjustables. I put them in my '88, adjusted all the way down they seemed about the same as with the stock struts. and then I went up an inch from there.

I've done the rislone thing too. It actually resurrected the synchros in my dad's old '94 LGT (couldn't shift it into 2nd when we first got the car). But, transmission bearing failure is what finally killed that car last summer, and I think the additive was a factor in that. Granted, we got almost 100k miles on it after that original trouble. If were to do it again, I'd just run straight ATF for a bit, and then switch to a nice gear oil (I'm partial to Castrol HypoyC).

nothing wrong with the axles. And with a basic 5-lug swap, the suspension is pretty easy to fix. I really don't understand the reason to go to the trouble of swapping the whole EJ rear suspension under an EA8x car. A whole lot of work, that has to be very accurately done, for....what?

That's pretty normal. When the gear oil is cold, the synchros will be sluggish to engage, especially as they age. There are options for gear oil that will help that, BUT all they are is thinner oil, which means the bearings won't be properly lubricated once the oil is warm. Subaru makes a great gear oil called Extra-S that will improve shifter feel without sacrificing lubrication. Unfortunately, it's only available by the drum. One of the dealers in the cities will transfer it into used ATF bottles and sell it by the quart, but that's pretty rare. If it bothers you, you can run ATF for a bit (500 miles or so) to clean it out, and then swap back to regular gear oil. But it's not a sign of failure. The RX trans that was in my wagon used to do that pretty badly in the winter because I ran 80w90 gear oil. I had to start it with the clutch in on really cold days, because the transmission would create enough friction to prevent the engine from starting.

Finally made some more progress on it today. Even with shelter, the cold made it difficult to get out there and work on it. Since my last post. I bought a marine oil-drain kit since the blazer was driver's side drop, the drain plug was right over the toyota front diff. Also got AA headers, monroe long travel shocks, and U-bolt flip. Today I dropped the gas tank, and removed the stock fuel lines and the vent line. got the headers in (had to pound a bit on one of the primaries to clear the steering shaft). I also got the hood on.....yea, going to need a little extra clearance over the IAC valve. I've been looking at some generic cowls and such, but haven't found anything that looks decent, especially considering how far forward it will have to be.

not necessarily, not too difficult to put EJ brakes on EA trailing arms. But, I do believe it was running the EJ suspension anyway. Considering the amount of fabrication required to mount the EJ crossmember and fabbing strut towers, making the track narrower while you're at it would not be difficult at all.

What front axles did you use? and how sure are you that the front and rear axle ratios match? Yes, the only way you have a transmission that matches that rear end, but is Part-time 4WD, is the '85-'86 RX (technically an option on GL-10s of the same year, but rare). But that would have 25-spline axles. that loyale would have 23 (assuming it wasn't turbo, I guess there were a handful of turbo '90 loyales). Anyway, yea. for street use, EA drivetrains leave a LOT to be desired. Although some of that is also the stock alignment setup too. Low caster angle, high camber angle.....yuck. If you're EJ swapping it, I would very much recommend an EJ transmission to go with it. The rear diff, however, is something special! Definitely hang onto that, and swap it to match whatever transmission you use.

RX is turbo. so 25 spline axle stubs and 3.7 axle ratios. I would highly recommend getting an EJ trans if you're going the street route. the RX gearing is awful, for every use (3.7 axle ratios means taller first gear than the 3.9 trans, but the .871 5th gear makes for awful freeway gears compared to the standard .780), as is the center diff. the axles will be the hardest part, either way. Might as well cut 2" out of your driveshaft and fab up a crossmember for a much better AND more common transmission.

I'm really not sure what you're looking for..... You said in your first post that you're considering using Fuel Injection. FI means ECU, period. There are options for a carbed setup for most subie engines before 1997 or so that wouldn't require an ECU. But with a little wiring, the fuel-injection will be a turnkey setup with great torque and mileage. If you're unsure of the wiring, there are many people (myself included, check out the link in my signature) that can strip your donor harness down to a standalone harness that wouldn't be much harder to wire up than a carb setup (couple power wires, and a few signal wires for gauges/lights if you like), and run perfect from the get-go.

Welcome! I definitely like to hear people using Subie engines in other applications (I've helped with a number of porsche/vw based projects). I would highly recommend choosing something other than an Ea82. If you're going for light and simple, go with an EA81. They might be kind of hard to find in texas, but they're a much simpler engine. Otherwise, I'd suggest going EJ series. Not much more complex than the Ea82s, but much more reliable, and more common. Whatever you do, if you're going fuel-injected, you'll need much of the wiring from the car. In which case, I always recommend getting a whole donor car (crashed, or with some other failure.....transmission or something). This way you know you have everything, and the condition of the engine.

All 6MTs listed on this chart (only through 2007), regardless of market, use a 3.9 rear diff. The 4.111 and 4.444 STi options where with 5MTs, which AFAIK, still used an r160.

read the thread. it's already been discussed here.

My money is on a rear axle broken.

The rear suspension changed drastically in 2000. Look at the picture on that ebay ad, rears are completely different. you're looking for '96-'99 outbacks.

I believe the struts alone are about 1.5" taller. You don't need to use the springs, but you'll gain a bit more from them.

maybe in a nissan. AFAIK, all subaru r180s are 3.9. at least through 2007 I know all r160 internals swap. I would assume the same would be true with the r180

I know. The post I was responding to just said Z-cars. and I don't know them very well, so I was trying to get some clarification. I could have access to a Z31 diff and an STi diff. so if I was mistaken and the Z31 was an r180, I could possibly make a comparison.

There are studs in the engine block for the bottom 2 holes. The 4 in the middle are just for dowels. Re-use the stockers. The top 4 should have bolts, they have to be a pretty precise length to get full engagement but not bottom out. You'll have to drill out the threads on the engine bellhousing so you can bolt the plate to the engine block, and then install like normal. My MRose adapter plates used fairly standard threads, so the hardware could easily bought at a hardware store. I would assume SJR did the same, but I'm not sure. I do know a couple guys with unused SJR plates....I could see if they have any more info.

hmmmm....interesting. I knew the Ea81s had a smaller trans tunnel....but I figured the vacuum diaphragm would be close enough to the engine bay that it wouldn't be an issue. good to know!

hmmm....interesting. Pretty sure my dad's Z31 is an r200.

what are you putting it in that you don't have room for the stock vacuum diaphragm? depending on what exactly your space problems are, you might be able to just un-bolt it from the trans and relocate it. Other than that, it'll have to be custom. A cable directly to the lever on the center diff housing will definitely be the simplest. Get creative with the zzz and

There are a TON of different ways to go with that. Just have to decide what you want, how much you want to spend, and how you'll use them. If you're wheeling in the trees, roof lights have a pretty good chance of getting damaged. so I'd err on the cheap side. Hella 500s are a pretty common option, seems to be a pretty good compromise of cost and quality. Personally I'd just go to wal-mart/northern tool/harbor freight/local auto parts store and grab a set of generic off-road flood lights. That's what I had on the roof of the PoopenVagon. Worked great for lighting up the trails at night. I plan to do the same on the 4runner. If you're mounting them on the roof, you probably won't be able to use them on the street without getting hassled by the popo, so no need for pencil/driving beams. I'd suggest looking for a fog/flood pattern. As for wiring, I tucked the wires under the B-pillar trim, and then out at the upper-front corner of the rear door. Kept them out of harms way, and pretty close to the roof rack too.

Zs are an r200, though, aren't they? USDM STis had a 3.9 too. But they're not cheap. in theory the R&P should intherchange

clutch disc on backwards?

Anything will fit.....zzz Consider the body will be higher up Re the frame because you'll have 2 frames. So you'll have more vertical clearance. Also, due to how far forward the transmission is with the subaru drivetrain. By using a divorced tcase and front axle, you'll be able to move the whole drivetrain back quite a bit. Yea, you'll have to get creative with the radiator and stuff, but I'm sure it could be done.