AKghandi

yeah on both my wagos the worst that has happens is the boots split, after i replaced them with good quality new ones i havent had an issue. i have noticed the tire wear on my mud tires but on the street tires i havent noticed any wear in the 4000 or so miles its had the lift.

I have always liked manual steering, in fact most of my cars have been that way. I don't mind the exercise. I'm young I can afford to put a little more effort into turning. and no i have Never been at 100% in a turn, have never had the need. but i can see where you're coming from. but, almost all race cars are manual steering... and cmon you never shift in a turn.

with a manual rack and 215/75/r15 tires i can turn them with one hand, its hard but i can do it. so with stock 13s it would be pretty easy

i will say one thing about manual steering off road, keep your thumbs outside the wheel, if you hit a rock with a tire it will spin the steering wheel and will slap the bejeabus out of your thumbs... just from my experience.. not a fun situation.

AWWWW YEAHHH!!!.. for wheels find some 6 lugs off an isuzu or mazda, they have good offset and just redrill them. I think you'll find the crossmember drop is unnecessary. if you slide the small end of the boots on the inner joint towards the trans so they arent stretched as far you shouldnt have a problem. also I (and many others) reccomend heavy duty zip ties instead of boot clamps. much easier and much cheaper.... i got 30 250lb breaking zip ties for like $4 from habor freight here's a perfect set in your area( i think) http://kalispell.craigslist.org/pts/3967813066.html

i have a 85 wagon with 29" mud tires. it has manual steering and its not bad at all. only time its even slightly difficult to turn is when I am at a standstill. and even then its not bad. I use two hands but im sure someone with a little more arm strength could do it with one I also just switched over to manual on my 87 gl-10 also lifted with 27" tires, I could not remove the ps pump because the bracket goes under the intake mani. so i just routed the pump in a loop with itself. If you can find a manual rack its well worth it, just make sure you bring a lot of rags, its pretty greasy down there.

wellllll its pretty easy but dont expect it to last long these trans are not meant to be rwd. take one of the front axles out, then take it apart, take the stub shaft and put it back in the hub. then lock the center diff. bingo rwd. if you want to make it last longer you'll need a better rear diff and a better transmission. I circled the stub shaft, the res of the axle can be removed.

You'll get that a lot here, there are people who ask the same questions over and over. nothing personal. the D/R swap is straight swap no mods or anything, just make sure you have ever part from the donor car. mounts, interior pieces etc. good time to put a new clutch in also. front and rear axles will be the same, unless the trans is going in, or coming from a turbo. rear diff axles are all the same

"what I really wanted to do was paint the top half white like the bumper skin and bottom half black to mask it in there, i bet from 20 feet away it would have look super stock" I thought that same thing.. a while after I posted lol

how come, you have a rusty legacy ss, and a CLEAN 2wd gl wagon.....and the little voice in the back of your head isn't screaming...EJ22t IT!! seriously, if you can find a 2wd legacy or imp trans thats what i would be doing.. I'm usually against the EJ IT voice but cmon.. you have most of the parts and a sweet car to put it in.

are you planning on painting the IC black?... kinda ruins the sleeper aspect of it.. but then again your car is 10000x better than my car so I you can just ignore me lol

the tire is wearing more on the outside edge?.. jack up that side and shake the tire. I bet its the drivers side. especially if it gets louder on left turns, all the weight goes to the drivers side. Also if the bearings are that bad, the tire will camber out on left turns causing wear on the outside of the tire I went through the same thing I thought it was the passenger side so I replaced it... turns out it was the drivers side. its something to do with the double bearings in the knuckles. Also check the hub on the drivers side, it may be the culprit. if the axle nut is loose, or the flat washer is gone it will strip the hub and make noises and tire wear like you describe. make sure the cone washer is in good shape and the hub splines are straight and even. there is some shop here in AK that has been doing axles replacements on subarus and completely screwing things up. i got a loyale with 2 brand new axles and both front axle nuts were loose. and one was missing the flat washer..

pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator.. if gas comes out bingo. if gas doesnt come out, put a vac line on and suck on it, gas may come out then so be careful. if it holds vacuum and doesn't leak move on. my theory is when driving it it creates more vacuum and sucks some gas through the vacuum line and causes it to run rich and stall.

I'm curious about this too, if I cant find some I may just remove the sway bar on my ea82.. the clunking is getting on my nerves. the only bushings I can find(and I have exhausted the internet's resources) is the sway bar mount bushings, no one has the endlink bushings, and I am not buying an entire $152 swaybar just for the bushings..

looks awesome! as far as the seafoam is concerned it will soak in and will lose that gloss but if you apply it again it soak in some more and will bring it to a nice black color. it really does work amazingly well. still thinking about lifting it?

too bad you aren't up here in AK there are cheap subies everywhere.. i just got a 90 loyale runs and drives with tags for 150.. leaks alot but drives good. I hope you find something!

push the tensioner firmly. that should be enough pressure. run it for a while and see where the belt rides, if its towards to outside of the cogs, add some pressure. if its riding towards the inside of the cogs loosen it some. you want the belt to ride near the center. you do not need the inner or outer covers. many many people run without them, without issue. the timing marks that are on the inside cover can be substituted with the seam where the valve cover meets the head.

sweet!

dam!.. that blue wagon for 8300 is my dream car... its even got a winch.. needs lift and tires.

the maf on these doesn't get dirty, its a hot wire system so it cleans itself.

two things, I have never had a good expirience cleaning mafs on these, two you have to lift up on the outside handle when you close the door with it locked to lock it. its harder to lock these cars than it is to break in lol

it still works http://www.sandersford .com/_autocheck?VIN=1FMYU03125KC74982&DealerId=5016134 put your vin where the bold is and remove the spaces between sandersford and .com worked for me, my rigs have been all over the country, no accidents either! and my turbo sat from 91 to 96, it has been constantly registered since then. my 86 drove from ak to FL twice! with some history in WA and MN

how about the cubby under the ash tray? not sure if it would be the right angle but it would be a good spot.. if your car has one that is.

Thanks for the info! I guess i'm on the lookout for an ea81 hub

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enviro-Safe-R12-R-12-Replacement-AC-Quick-Charge-Refrigerant-Kit-with-Dye-Tap-/330924960923