AKghandi

drive shaft or C/V axle? drive shaft is super easy 4 12mm and 2 14mm. see above post for C/V

that would be the sound of a small block chevy. lol.. i would know ive been hearing it alot lately working on my camaro

it has a filter in the air box on top the carb

sounds good. I flexed the car pretty seriously and the tire didnt touch. though i am going to tie it up a little higher. I'll have to look into cutting the snout off and welding a pipe on there. i have a welder but my skills are not that good.

that is so nice.. I would be afraid to drive it.

it's called the " virgin switch" because it has brought more people to this site than broken timing belts lol Welcome to the forum, you will find every possible thing you could ever need to know about subaru's here.

I'm open to pointers on how to better waterproof it. this was just a quick and dirty way of getting it to work.

its a temporary way of attaching the hose to the carb air box. i have to figure out something more.. air tight. like a carb hat or something I used the hose clamps to mount it. i screwed them on with self taping screws and clamped the hosed down. I put it together in about an hr including the trip to lowes, at about 6 am before i went out wheeling.

2.5" shop vac hose $29, 3" hole saw $16, roll of ductape $8.99, various hose clamps, free. being able to do this; priceless. I'll get a pic of how its routed and hooked up tomorrow. still need to finish water proofing it but its a good start... i think water actually went into the intake side of the snorkle lol.

ea82 stock exhaust, no muffler.

So the final stage of this build has been completed!! full stock exhaust with new gaskets from the up pipe back. new brake pads, front hoses, and a new master cylinder from a legacy. BEST BRAKES EVER. no more squishy! A new drive shaft and 2 new front axles. plus I did an oil change. Now I just need to clean it and its up for sale!.

AHA! i saw that 14 mm but i did not see the 36 mm lock nut. makes sense thank you sir!

its just irritating more than anything because everything else is tight and feels like new except the dang steering. I'm going to look into the linkage in a while and make sure I didn't mess anything up there. I could have sworn i read there was a slack adjuster on these racks. i could be wrong though. I do frequent quite a few auto forums...

like the title says, where is it whats it look like? I converted to a manual rack in my lifted 87 gl-10 and there is about 3-4 degrees movement in the steering wheel, the tie rod ends are good, and were recently replaced. the rack mount bushings are also in good shape. the rack itself looks like it was replaced fairly recently, I wiped it off and it looks almost new. I'm sure theres something about it in my haynes or chilton but I haven't seen either book in quite sometime. I did a search but I came up empty handed.. Thanks for the help, if it matters the rack is from an 85/86. If someone has the info floating around( which I'm sure they do). I'll see about getting it added to the USRM.

well great... now i have to wait around for the progress on 2 awesome build threads.... sooo epic.... the h6 thats going in that rs.. would it perhaps be getting a remote mount turbo?...

I went through this very thing on my 85 wagon. No the rod is not threaded. I remember i spent 10 minutes trying to get it off by turning it. The whole process was a real pain. It actually splits and has a little latch that keeps it closed.. I spent the better part of an hour fighting the one on my parts car till i just broke stuff to get it out. Hopefully i saved you some time laying on your back.

it should be pretty straight forward, theres a roll pin on both ends of the axle, and you may need to lower the rear diff mustache bar. you my run into problems with the axle coming off the stub shaft and the diff stub they tend to be pretty comfy where they are and not happy about moving.

ive even seen someone put a small block ford in one of these cars before..

come to think of it the ea81's I've had haven't had overflows.... well one did but it was a vodka bottle.

yeah they are redrilled toyotas, and as far as the clearance cutting i didnt cut any metal off. i cut a bunch of slits and hammered them inward. if you cut the fenders out it takes away some rigidity. those are also 215/75/r15/ i had to pound the firewall in and the pinch weld over.

Here's a pic of one of my wagons 2" lift blocks no Xmember drop and 29" mud terrains. at a stand still the front has almost perfect camber. though when i accelerate i get camber like yours. \ / been wearing the outside edge of the tires pretty badly.

once the front cross member blocks are in it will ride and handle like stock. though it will hold to the road alot better with the bigger tires... plus have you ever been in a parking lot and had one of those pesky medians look at you funny? happens to me all the time.. so i just run them over. people look at you funny but its good fun. that looks like more than a 2" lift but that may just be the pics.

depends on your area though they are usually pretty cheap,the install wouldnt be that hard, might need a trans to go with it. i wouldnt go putting nos on these engines, an ea81 might hold it not sure about the ea71.

if you want more power go for an ea81, with ea82 spfi pistons delta cams and a webber carb. all in all it would be about 30 hp and cost about the same, maybe a little more.