impostor

Don't be cheap. Buy the Aisin kit with water pump or piece together your own with Japanese made components. Replace, at a bare minimum, the cogged idler that bolts to the water pump. When (not if) it fails, there is a high probability you'll bend valves. Is this a job you're willing to go back and do again just to save a few bucks right now?

+1 on them being AWFUL cars, possibly the worst car Subaru has ever built. I hate when they come in and being the 'last one to touch it.' We have a saying at our shop: "Friends don't let friends buy Legacy GTs" I recently told someone in the local FB group that I could rewrite the lyrics to "We Didn't Start the Fire" with all the common problems these cars have.

13089AA010

I'm pretty sure I used your drawings when I wired mine on my 85 brat a couple years ago. Crude, but functional. Thank you!

Are you positive the ground on the intake manifold is clean and tight? It's the ground for the ecm. I've seen people (unnecessarily) remove the wiring harness from the intake manifold, so overlooking that ground can cause your problem. Do you smell raw fuel from the tailpipe after cranking it for a while?

Well that escalated quickly. Now I'm gonna spend the next two hours lost in the world of Wikipedia, starting with what the hell a Faraday cage is!

I remember when this was on CL before a dealer bought it and put it on BAT. I think the original asking price was like $3k. I'd have been all over it at that time but I had just purchased my 73 GL coupe like a month before for $5k.

I appreciate your efforts and everything I've received so far. I am one of those people that hasn't left feedback, but I'll get on that!

I'm definitely interested in the NOS ring gear if it ends up being for an ea71.

Wait, it caught fire somewhere!? There's a decent chance that a fuel hose clamp has loosened somewhere, and if someone before you messed with any of the hoses, there's a decent chance they didn't use the more expensive hose that's designed for the higher pressure that fuel injection requires.

Something as simple as worn spark plugs can cause a difficult/no start. Easiest thing to check first, assuming battery voltage is 'good' and it cranks over at a normal speed. Make sure it has NGK brand plugs in it.

Did you get the IAC bypass hose hooked back up to the intake duct just after the MAF? For some reason I always forgot that when I used to see these all the time.

I can't get over the commercial for the XT turbo back in the day. There's a quick shot of the cluster and if you look close the temp is one bar below the red.

My ea82t runs hot, but I''m pretty sure it left the factory that way.

There are quite a few parts still available for ea71s and 81s if you have the part number. I just replaced the shifter bushings in my 80 brat with new OE stuff.

ummm, here in the US the gasket can be purchased new from the dealer for $1.28 retail. Part number 803935010

What brand of spark plugs did you use? (NGK are the ONLY ones to use in Subarus)

+1 on the Nachi bearings

Oh Lord baby Jesus. Not the op, but what the shop said. I've never heard that one before. I still see one or two ej era cars that went to a quick lube place and it quit moving shortly after the oil change. Trans is empty and the engine has 8 quarts of oil in it.

Along the same concept as what gloyale said, make sure your battery connections are clean and tight, and make sure the large ground wire at the starter is tight.

^^^ yup

Option 1 will likely take care of it, hone probably not needed. Option 2 is a complete toss up.

Make 100% sure all the air is bled out of the system. These newer ones with the vertical intake runners after the throttle body seem to be a little bit more difficult to bleed than the earlier ones. Make sure the overflow bottle hose is not clogged and the bottle isn't full of crud at the bottom. I also make it a habit to trim the bottom of the hose at a 45 degree angle so the hose can't suck itself to the bottom of the bottle (there was a tsb about this and at some point Subaru changed the hose to have the angle in it) Also verify that the coolant level in it is rising and falling as the coolant heats up and cools back down. Jim

Wow, someone else from Omaha on here!? Give me a call at my shop, Russ' Garage, if you need us to take a look at it. 402-681-5128. I won't be able to offer much help this week though as we're a 1 man show (me) due to a family emergency.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1992_Legacy-WAGON-4-L-GRADE--LRHD/UNIVERSAL-JOINT-ASSEMBLY-STEERING/49245120/34160AA020.html