Matty B

No worries. Now Junkie- what does it do, advance or retard under BOost?

Howdy all, as the title says... I am in the process of supercharging my EJ22 and am trying to figure out the timing. I have a distributor on this system and re-curving is my next ting on the list to do. What does it do on a turbo motor, advnce or retard? Cheers, Matt

This is the exact opposite of here! There are 6 Brumbys in my little town of 600 people! More Subarus are sold in Tasmania (per haed of population) than anywhere else in the world. Brumbys have street cred. People know they run forever, everyone has been in one at some stage, people know they will tow their own weight. And L series, and bloody imprezas and libertys. Rental companies love them, AWD helps keep the tourists on the blacktop. Its a funny world.

Who has bent moustache bars before? I have two that both have a bit of a bend, is this normal? Are they slightly offset from the factory? Who has re-inforced theirs? Its going to have to be way stronger than it is now when 6psi of boost hits it in a month or so..

East Coast Bullbars skid plate by Me.

Troy, we have a january camping trip booked on the west coast.. http://ausubaru.com/main/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=38&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Bring the Brumby! its going to be a convoy.

Thanks for the help guys, yes its posssible, yes the valves are smaller, yes I am giving it a go. From what my Gas Guru has been telling me, a 20% increase in compression will get me a 40% increase in HP. Its to do with the specific burn rate of LPG. I will post results as soon as its running. Cheers all, Matt

Hi all, as the title says, I am looking for a compression gain for a major power increase. My car runs LPG and they love high compression. Ant help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Matt

Sure Xay, when you listen to the carbs you need to balance the 'sucking sound' the fuel levels are set at the float bowls, the idles you can also adjusts by ear, but the actual air flow is either done by a meter place on the carb tops or.. with the stethiscope. You can get them so close to perfect with just a little bit of patience. My carbs ( the twins, I miss 'em ) were set up by the previous owner. I have some shots, PM me you email address and I will send them on. Cheers, Matt

Guys the best tool of all for twin carbies is a medical stethiscope. (the cold bastard of a thing that doctors use to put onyour chest to hear your heart) With this it is simple to balance the air flow through both carbies. Without it the engine rev noise makes it impossible. Make sure you check them at idle, mid throttle and WOT. Have fun with the twins, I did.

600mm wide x 10mm aluminium. Radiator support bracket to sump to gearbox. 2 bends. pick it up with one hand. How strong do you really need?

I know a couple of Albanian brothers who could help in more than one way.... Travelling expences would be a 'killer' though. You must be pissed! I would be.

I know a couple of Albanian brothers who could help in more than one way.... Travelling expences would be a 'killer' though. You must be pissed! I would be.

1986 White and Mat Black Wonder Brumby, EJ22 from a 1993 Liberty wagon, All LPG. No fuel system connected. Distributor ignition. No framerail modifications at all, 19mm Portside and 32mm clearance on the starboard side. Standard EA81 Crossmember (it dropped right in the middle of the slotted holes), L series (EA82) rectangular engine mounts, (you need 4, cut, weld and extend 4 into 2 top plates) Standard radiator with new larger nipples soldered on at radical angles. EA81 A/C fan behind radiator on thermoswitch and over-ride. Will look at forward fans as well in the summer I think. Steel adapter plate by Rising Sun RX flywheel machined by Rising Sun RX Clutch kit and pressure plate RX DR fulltime box with diff lock 3.700 LSD 3" BYB lift. I cut the header plates (my personal touch) and had the pipes bent on, around the skid plate mounts. I am also looking at the EJ18 head swap, LPG LOVES HIGH COMPRESSION MOTORS. I need every scrap of power, to run the alternator, to run the 600+ watts of lights!

Use supr glue, it is almost an invisable join with plexiglass. I have laminated plocks together with superglue before, you gan see through the glue layer easily. Its what they reccomend too.

Also. If possible, make sure you use stabalizing bars at the top. Vibration is what kills H4s, they get waaay hot and fragile, a tiny movement due to flex causes tremmers and blown bulbs. Get a 6 inch worm drive stainless hose clamp and open it up as a strap. Srew one end to the top of the light and tension them up against your bodywork.

H4s are awesome, run two individual circuits, and a relay for each. One for low and one for high. Get some 130w/90w bulbs and light up your entire zip code. DO NOT run both together. (sorry if I sounded like a mother) They blow within 5,4,3,2,.... you get the idea. I have them in my headlights and in my drivers (highbeam only) Cheers, Matt

Righto.. Outers H4 converted 130w/90w inners HI 100w Drivers (Cibie super oscar copies dremelled out to take H4s) 130w All through a new custom HD loom and 4 relays (thanks for your help, Skip) With a 100 amp HD Liberty alternator and the biggest baddest battery that fits. I can smell paint blistering.....on the car way up there! I can see you.

Sure you can Noah, the computor just runs the spark and the fuel side is bypassed. Good luck with it this week, Keep us posted. Matt

Snowman and Noah, It has given me a fine running motor as a "drop in" into my daily driver. I was off the road for nine days TOTAL! Where I live is pretty remote and I like having a Plan B up my sleeve, When I am finished the Wonder Brumby will have TWO independant ignition systems, one for the Fuel and one for the Gas. I am now running wires and looking for a computer. By the way, I just did a big road trip, 400 litres of gas for 3850 kilometres. Loaded up with 350 kilograms of camping gear and spares running big tires and AWD. Randomizer- emissions for LPG are 1/3 that of unleaded gasoline, carbon emission rates that are impossible to acheive with gasoline. This is MY BABY, I appreciate the feedback, but it is built to my specs for my life- its almost perfect. With 400kms a week rolling under the wheels I finally have the power, economy and reliability I always wanted. Noah.......hows it coming along Mate...........? Cheers Big Ears, Matt

Geoff, don't stress the little bits, get a shifter and console from a Touring wagon, they came with a switch on the gearstick to operate electric 4wd activation. Get it from the wreckers and get the vacuum solinoids to run them. Then it all looks factory. The lift will not affect anything. Give us a hoy when you get done and let us know how you went. Cheers, Matt

If you have a 5 speed L series box in there all ready... Seperate the inners off your CV shafts and put some RX turbo or libetry inners on to them. Slightly bigger stub axle sized. Your driveshaft will bolt right up, your linkages will as well. Your gear stick may be angled forward a little too much (making it impossible to put a CD in when in 1st, 3rd or 5th) Heat and bend the steel of the shifter nub back a little. Or cut and re-weld. You will LOVE it. I DO, and I have a spare in the shed just in case. After you get the CVs sorted it will be a days work. Best of luck. matt

G'day All, Can anyone point me in the right direction for a set of headlight wiring diagrams for the 4 headlight Brat/Brumby. I want to replace the original loom with a brand new heavy duty one and incorporate two new driving lights. All through individual reays. I have seen a link before but I cannot find it now. Many thanks, Matt

Thats MY BRAT! It shocks just about everyone, I highly reccomend it.

Or put a distibutor into one of the heads on an EJ motor and ditch the ECU completely. Bypass the injectors and just feed it sparks. Works a treat.