WJM

Spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid around all the places there could be leaks...if the engine changes tone/pitch/speed, theres the leak. How much to make me an IC setup like yours?

springs are stiffer on the front, but not by much. its the dampers that make the difference...2x the rate of anything else. My GL-10 handles like its on rails...the DL is crap.

Well ofcourse you would not leave the old shoulder there! And T response......well......there are ways around that........Anti-Lag!

I wish...I wish...I wish i had time to install that WRX IC laying around...and find an 04 STi hood scoop.......

HAHA! I didnt....I STILL have a 20mm.....from an XT6! I also have that 19mm front. Its just good that i have so many bars...many fronts, 18 is whats on there now. Rear: 12, 16 18 20. 20 is whats on there now.

true. i have not looked at them in a long long time....

Huh? HID kit?

EA82T. I have answered the email....

All i know is that ive seen a many gen one heads done with. Ive got three sets of Gen 2s...the only failure i had was a burned exh. valve....and got those engines HOT too. no cracks....except for the normal hairline between the valves. There are no differences between turbo and non turbo heads...other than an exh. valve, and the 1-3 side head has some ports to accomodate the turbo oil and coolant lines.

4 bolts, yep. Id take the engine trans mounts loose from the crossmember from under the car...then lift the engine, and use a jack to lift the trans, to get the engine mounts clear of the crossmember...then, separate the engine from the trans enough to get a screwdriver in between, and just pry the two apart. Make sure to not let the engine slam into the radiator if its still on the engine bay.....

Ive found some Nissan rear calipers that appear to bolt up to the bracket....just needs 1mm of file'in to slide in. They came from a 240SX.

ummm....how long did it sustain 8k? And, my turbo's engine wont go that far....even with no load. lol the SPFI will! And i have decided to run the turbo tomorrow....i wonder how long it will take before catastrophic failure occurs....

the stock EA82 MPFI and turbo TB is TINY compared to an XT6 TB.

Well, the dizzy adjustment is maxed out on the DL....so im guessing thats about 10 or more deg...Im about to put the stockers back in the DL, cuz I know the gain is way more on the turbo...and i am building a new turbo engine for the GL-10...sometime...lol Overall, ive only noticed that if I go past 6k, there is power, where there was none to be had before. So.....im guessing that this is not a non turbo grind fo-sho. Miles Fox had emailed me, something interesting.... "its the turbo cams. they have no overlap to make power. make the spfi open ports and you will have GOBS of bottom end, but a pipe will make it a dog i did this with a carb, spfi block, camd were a dog, but it hauled a 2 axle trailer with the car the cams came form on top. go back to an spfi cam, i bet you there is a difference" So....i think i will do that, just to see, and since i need the cams for something else anyhow.

Hey...the same thing happend to me in Germany...totaly awesome! But it was a dealership...still, they had rally cars! Awesome pics, and i wish i could have gone...

So what is the max RPM i should run at with the 3AT, SPFI, open intake and exhaust, and Delta 677-260 cams? Seemed to do well up to 7k....any more? less? what?! Th reason i ask...I am doing an autocross tomorrow, and IF i run the DL, i would like to keep it in 1st gear, and I tihnk I can, if RPMs allow me. It creates power there, at 7k....but will the engine take that abuse? Im torn....The GL-10 on 3 cyliders, run 1st until the engine lets go once and for all, a choice of 2 WRXs (not stock at all)...con an STi owner, con an EVO owner...Co drive whatever Pleiades brings, or codrive Warp 3's....so many options... So..........how many RPMs?????

ive got some Nissan calipers laying around...

nah, i just like beign able to see the belt condition at a glance, and if one breaks, it a 10 min job to replace it.... Ive NEVER had a cam sprocket come loose like that before....i hope it will never again. I will make sure of it too.

NAPA is supposed to accept whatever is in the box for a core, as long as it the the same as the axle you purchased, and as long as its all there.

Ive always used 10w30 mobil 1 synthetic....for the turbo wagon. I think the bottom end had about 60k~80k on it.... I am using the NAPA 10w-30 synthetic in the DL right now. The DL has 77.6k miles on it.

ive seen other years here in the states with the raised roof...there is one resident in mount pleasant.... Anyhow, the Euro tail lights are even more different...

i got something like that too...the DL in the sig. There is no way there is bent valves. The t belts must be off. That was the case on mine.....great score tho.

Well, the more i drive it, the more it seems to wake up...so, it cruises at 95~100 with little problem. Screaming at 5k....until the cam sprocket comes loose, and the belt walks off, and ther is a POP and no more power..... Luckily it was the passenger side belt, the little pin that is supposed to be in the cam was gone, andone bolt worked out...so antoher bolt, and it was a 5 min fix on the side of the hwy. LOL. this happend this morning on the way to work. The two bolts left had worked a groove in the cam pully/gear/sprocket/whever its called, so i had a spare cam box with me...and replaced the pin and pully right after work, and went on like nothing. No T-belt covers rock. 5 min job...instead of a 2 hr one. So anyhow, it seems to be happy now. Just needs some new front axles, tires and a few things here and there....and REALLY needs Cruise control.

Skip did that for me as well. Mucho kick butt flywheel.

Three....