GLCraig

It probably could be done, you would just need the right adapter to bolt the weber to your intake manifold and get the right jetting. The carb base of the justy is similar or possibly the same as the EA82. Another option that would take more work is to find the pieces to convert your Justy to fuel injection.

it should be around 750-850 rpm

That would be to the right (clock wise) It may not need to got that far in, turn it until the engine begins to run a bit rough then turn the screw back until is smooths out. Since you said you're only getting around 12mpg, changing the idle mixture may not help a whole lot.

I don't remember ever having to swap them when I was working at a Subaru shop so if they aren't exactly the same, they are atleast compatible.

Outside tire wear can also be cause by too much toe-in. But then again It's an early subaru so the amount of wear you have maybe normal.

The SPFI long block has higher compression pistons and a different camshafts.

here It's hidden down in the throttle base casting. There maybe a pin in the way but it can be cut or drilled out.

That's only on later turbos with the hotwire MAF.

If I'm reading my diagram right, Yellow ==> coil - Blk/wht==> coil + blk/red==> Knock control unit Blk/yel==> knock control unit

I would have gone with Silver wheels

Pugs don't require the conversion.

The crack that's the big issue with the EA82T heads it the one that forms where the exhaust runners converge. When you get a crack there, coolant will begin to start dripping from the crack. The only N/A heads that come close to turbo heads are the ones from a MPFI engine. The Left head is the same except some didn't have the hole tapped for the EGR tube. The Right head would need to be modified to accept the oil return line from the turbo. Besides the non-turbo XTs, the MPFI engine could also be found in a 2wd GL10

A link you want a link you get http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25958&highlight=wedding

Did you ever try using the 84 throwout bearing with a 84 throwout bearing holder?

So who's going to show up for Flowmasters Wedding?

note to self, If I ever build a rally car, excede the minimum requirements for the roll cage.

Well I pulled my struts out tonight and the bearings in the tops are shot, I can barely turn them by hand. I price out some from a few of the major parts stores and I can get them cheaper from the dealer so It looks like I'll be getting some OEs here in a couple of days.

I wouldn't use the struts from a wagon because it will raise your ride height. You should find some from another XT.

If you have the climate control set to defrost, the A/C compressor will cycle on and off but not a frequently as it would if it was set on A/C. This actually helps to suck some of the moisture out of the air.

1800 miles without knowing the state of the timing belts. That's brave....

The big thing is that you need to get a transmission that has the same final drive ratio as the one you have or get a different rear diff that matches the ratio of the tranmission that you end up with. Some 5-speed came with 3.90 and some came with 4.11

when you checked your timing did you remember to connect the test mode connectors?

I'm going to probably get some KYB struts for my GL and I was thinking that I should get some replacement strut tops for it too. But this is the hard part, I can get the ones from KYB for $67.80 each or I can get OE from the dealer at $46.90 each. Are the ones from KYB that buch better to justify the price difference?

Here's a thought. Try compressing one of the front struts to the point where you would want to stop the up travel. Measure the length of the piston rod from where it meets the strut top to where the piston rod exits the strut assembly. Find some urethane bar stock that about 3" diameter, cut the rod about a 1/4" longer then the measurement you took, then bore a hole that's a little bit bigger then the piston rod, in the piece of urethane. Disassemble the strut assembly, slide the pieces of urethane over the piston rod then reassemble.

You should replace the oil pump seals