GLCraig

try looking under the drivers seat where the height control computer is.

I beleve that yakima has a rack system that will work with your sedan. http://www.yakima.com/

You know from looking at the diagrams it looks like the stub axle is held in with the newer style clips. If you are lucky, you might be able to drain the transmission and find the old clip stuck on the drain plug magnet. If that's the case, remove the stub axle from the DOJ put the clip in the grove and see if you can get the stub axle to go back into the diff. You may need to tap it with a dead blow hammer.

Except for the Justy and WRX STI All 4wd and AWD Subaru's in the US market use the Hitach R160 rear differintal. Also I have torn down several 4wd transmission including Gen1s and the transfer case ratio is 1:1 except the automatic. Also a former co worker of mine had a 78 brat and it had a 3.9 rear diff.

Oh that ain't good at all. I have some bad news for ya. On the other end of that stub axle there should be a snap ring that holes the stub axle to the side gear of the front diff. Somehow the ring slipped off or broke. At this point i see your options as, opening the transmission up check for other damage, replace the span ring and put back together. Or you could just replace the transmission.

Using SI units would be good but I just don't see many torque wrenches out there with N*m as there unit of measurement. Then again I may not be looking in the right places.

too big of a throttle body is going to give you poor throttle responce.

I know they do propane injection on diesel engines but I have never heard of it being done gas engine. The hardest part I think would be the pluming and the controls. Also you need to make sure that the liquid propane from the tank is 100% vapor before goes in the engine.

One thing to watch out for is that early Gen1s used U-joints instead of DOJs for the rear shafts. You would need to replace the stub axles in the LSD diff the Yokes from the open diff. I can't remember if this change took place before or after the Brat went into production.

I buy my filters from the dealer.

Here's a story for you. While I was working at a Subaru shop, they had a EA82 wagon in that they planned to sell. The engine did have a pretty bad lifter tick and an oilpump reseal didn't completely fix it. So the next day they replace the oil with ATF and let it idle all day hoping that would clean thing out. Well that didn't work. So they decited to part the thing out instead. Now when they part one out that has an engine they don't want to keep, they will sometimes run the engine with the Tac pegged untill it throws a rod or has some other critical failure. Well after letting it run at 8k+ a for a while of the Cat started to melt down and before the engine could come apart there was to much backpress for it to run at WOT.

I would call DeltaCam and talk to them about it. Depending on your needs they should be able to help pick out the right grind for you and answer your lifter questions. http://www.deltacam.com/

Today I bought a used rear sway bar for a 96 Outback and used it to replace the rear sway bar on my 94 Legacy. The Outback sway bar is 18mm and the old one from my legacy is a 14mm; and yes it did make a noticeable difference. Now I can't wait until I upgrade from 14 inch to 16 inch wheels. It shouldn't be too long until I do that because I just won some on EBay the other day. 16inch WRX wheels with tires $305 best of all there are from a local seller so shipping is just $5 in gas money.

Read your VIN number You should find a similar sequence. For example my 94 legacy is a BF6.

I've been told that the Gen3 heads have more material in the exhaust port area by a former Regional Service manager of SOA

I've read somewhere that the 2inch scorpion lifts have the Ausi equivalent to DOT approval in New South Wales.

I'll just tell you, your subaru has an EA82

Hmm maybe you should check out this message board http://www.ausubaru.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl

When you get the new sway bars you should get some upgraded sway bar end links.

Yes there was an optional CD player in 92

Can you hear the pump run when you power it???

Are you getting spark? If i've read my diagrams correctly the +13.5vDC for the coil is suppiled by the Fuel pump control unit too and so is the power for the choke heater.

I'm with GD about getting some kind of a safety cutoff switch. The last thing you want is a running fuel pump if you get into a wreck.

Yes the Fuel pump on an EA81T is switched on by the ECU also there is a Fuel Pump Relay in the circuit. On A Carbed EA81 the fuel pump is controled by the Fuel Pump Control Unit AKA the Rev Sensor

Becareful taking the oil pump out. Part# 10 in the picture is know to brake when taking the pump out of the block.