el_freddo

You have small GST over there! Ours is 10%... Over here at a dealer it’s $30AU!! It seems all genuine parts are at a premium at the dealers - captive audience for most consumers! Cheers Bennie

My thoughts too until mdjdc said it still has compression - hopefully established through an actual compression test and not from listening while cranking. Any valves that aren’t bent (if that’s even possible) will build compression, or may build enough to sound like it’s got compression - or still be smashing valves. Only it’ll sound different to how it normally does. Cheers Bennie

Not in the Loyale. The EA82 has a myriad of problems with it. The EA81 found in the brat is the reliable as the EJ22 unit. @Ravenwoods - NLA = no longer available The EA engines above are 1.8L. EA81 is pushrod, can under crank, bullet proof if you keep the oil and coolant where it should be. The EA82 is OHC with small cam belts and always have oil leaks and the tick of death from hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) that don’t pressure up properly. If it’s running studded tyres I’d bet that it’s got serious rust issues if it’s seen salt on the roads. Lastly, this would be posted in the EA/80’s subforum, even though it’s a 90’s year build. Cheers Bennie

If you took a photo of the six pin relay diagram and visited an auto electrical store I’m sure they’ll have what you need - and the service assistant should know what you’re after or at the very least how to track it down. The pin setup may be different to the factory unit. Cheers Bennie

Self tappers used in the slot and bolt trick? I’ve not heard of that. What I did is probably what’s documented in the threads above: remove the tube piece with the ~45* angle bar on it that goes to the lever pivot. Grind/cut a good slot in the tube, perpendicular to the bolt holes so that the slot goes beyond where the holes are. I cut my slot to be about 3mm wide. Replace on the vehicle then drill the hole out to a larger size, this includes drilling the gear selector rod. Have a bolt that matches the hole size. Place the bolt in the hole then do up the nut as tight as all buggery! A lock nut will work well for this job. You’ll feel like you’ve got a sports shifter once this is done! Cheers Bennie

Got some pics to share? Welcome to the forum Cheers Bennie

Fair enough. I love it. Less work. Car not on jacks, coolant lines remain sealed. And with the gearbox strapped onto the motor cycle jack I find it a safe operation. That’s odd. Unless you’re going from and up-spec Gen1 to a budget/low-spec Gen2. Cheers Bennie

Whoa, @GeneralDisorder will have something to say about this! He must be sick of reading this stuff! @JohnCT - have you also thought about a local exhaust shop to build a replacement piece? I tend not to trust off the shelf aftermarket stuff from the net, especially fleabay! Cheers Bennie Edit: it could be worth getting the injectors flow tested and serviced - this will insure injector 4 is working properly and not leaning out due to blockage or some other injector related issue

There’s no need to pop the ball joints with the gearbox on a jack. Pull backwards until clear of the engine. Either push box one way, remove one shaft, move the other and remove second shaft. Or slowly drop box out, removing the shafts as you go. Do the reverse as you put the box back in. Make sure you’ve got the cotter pin hole line up correctly. The cotter pin can be knocked in before you go any further so you know it’s all sorted. For me, if it’s gearbox/clutch or rear main related, it’s box out. Much less to deal with and I don’t have to split the cooling system - which means I don’t have to catch and possibly replace the coolant. And yeah, if you suspect the car is stolen, walk away. Or you could try offering $200 if they have the title - that extra $50 could be that little bit of an incentive to get their A into G. Cheers Bennie

Looking and sounding good mate. It’s a big project you’ve undertaken. Remember the end goal! and keep up the good work! Thise chrome trim pieces in the windscreen/windshield rubbers - I’ve found them to be much easier to install with the rubber on the glass prior to fitting the glass to the vehicle Cheers Bennie

@idosubaru - what are you using the 32mm twelve point socket for?? A 22mm is needed for the crank pulley, but I’ve never used a 32mm other than on EJ castellated nuts on their driveshafts. Curious... Bennie

Possibly. Shafts you don’t suff around with. As soon as you find a split boot, change it! Replace shafts with genuine. As for replacing outter joint, it could be worth a try. I’m guessing this is the joint that went bad on the original shaft. Cheers Bennie

I’d have to check but I’m pretty sure the EJ20 and EJ22 heads have the same combustion chamber dimensions. Valves might be smaller in the EJ20 but that’s really no issue. Cheers Bennie

Once you’ve got your new thread/topic up and running, just copy the web address and paste it in here. The forum will do the rest Cheers Bennie

Shift rod as in the pitch stopper rod that goes between the firewall and gearbox? Its probably best to collate a list of what you need and find someone wrecking a vehicle in your area or visit a you pull it parts yard. engine/gearbox bolts are common across many models. The pitch stopper rod I believe is the same but there my be slight differences between some models. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Mark. Top shelf on the left Did you pull your legacy apart or did you buy it in pieces? You guys seem to have a few good online parts sites that will sell what ever parts you need and post them in your direction Cheers Bennie

I’d want to walk in there already known some codes. It could be a simple fix that’ll be an expensive exercise at a dealership. Who knows, the code could point at something for you to investigate that gets you started on some self maintenance if you’re into that sort of thing. Cheers Bennie

It’s exactly the same as the 2.5 kit/setup if both are SOHC or DOHC. The tensioner setup can be different but a) this doesn’t ultimately change the belt setup and b) the tensioners are interchangable using their corresponding mount plates Is this your first timing belt job? Cheers Bennie

If you’re worried about exhaust restriction, get some larger cars designed for larger capacity engines. Keep cats, get “better” exhaust flow, probably not get a check light, winning. Whats wrong with your current cats? Cheers Bennie

I loved this line! as for axles, I reckon the brumby is on par for axle strength. The issue is that the brat runs in front wheel drive all the time so “power” is only pushed through two shafts as opposed to some real power using all four shafts. Many wrx conversions are done to the brat so the shafts must be doing alright in the strength department. Cheers Bennie

Well that’s one opinion. Many Brumbys over here are daily driven. We’ve got a family bus and my brumby. Laws allow me to travel with one of my children in the front seat once of a certain age and height to fit into a booster seat. Where Subaru ultimately went wrong was leaving the rear axle forward of the load area, it should’ve been centralised for better ride handling and load carrying ability. My 20c. Cheers Bennie

If the crank pulley shot oil everywhere I’d be looking that the crank seal. You might find that it’ll leak at a certain rev range too. Been there done that. If you’ve not touched the oil pump you could suspect that too. If you didn’t do the internal seals, that could be part of the issue. I hope you get it sorted sooner rather than later! Cheers Bennie

@Subasaurus why aren’t there many old subi’s in Texas? No dealers in that era? I didn’t think they’d rust out too much in Texas from what I know of its climate (hot/dry most of the time?). Cheers Bennie

Or use a set of car ramps and a motorcycle jack. Works a treat for me. One difficulty depending on the vehicle is that you may need to drop the gearbox off the jack once it’s at the lowest setting - otherwise you won’t be able to get the gearbox out from under the car. But if your just doing the clutch you’ll have enough room to do what you need then slip the gearbox back on. Cheers Bennie