el_freddo

To remove carb unbolt the four 10mm nuts at the base of the carb. If you’re going to strip the carb down, it’s a good time to crack that screw from its hold while the carb is still fitted to the engine. Cheers Bennie

Oil is drained so for engine work such as HGs. Some engine stands make it difficult to balance an oil pan on the only bar that’s part of the structure that holds the wheels out the front of the frame. So it’s easier to drain oil in the car. If storing the engine I’d leave it in, same for swapping the engine into another car - do the oil change after you get the engine going in the new vehicle Cheers Bennie

Try this page. There’s one for the 2001 SF forester that would have the EJ20 that you’re chasing. There might be another manual that suits your needs better - have a poke around! http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/articles.php?c=93&order=desc&page=2 Cheers Bennie

You could just use the EJ251 intake manifold and ECU. From memory you guys didn’t get the NA EJ20 for long if at all. A web search should turn up what you want easy enough. There are loads of free manuals out there to download Cheers Bennie

You need to identify what that set of black plugs are then. Find a wiring schematic at go over it. I’ve only ever known one set of green, one set of black plugs. Can’t remember which ones to connect to read codes - I do know they all need to be disconnected when driving the car. In Oz we didn’t get those seatbelt thingys because we wear our seatbelts due to laws requiring us to, and it’s second nature when you grow up with wearing seatbelts. There is no doubt more wiring related to those sorts of systems that we didn’t get. Your check engine light will still do its thing, but test away anyway! Cheers Bennie

Remove the air filter housing to expose the top of the carb. You should easily identify the bowl etc from this view point. Remove the top of the carb via the screws to get into the bowl. From here blow out what you can with compressed air. Your issue is probably varnish blocking the jets from old evaporated fuel. A good last of compressed air should have it sorted. Or EJ it Welcome to the forum! Cheers Bennie

Head gasket external leakage is another thing to check. We got a 2003 forester with unknown history. Swapped HGs for the MLS units as a precaution and so we know it won’t be an issue we have to deal with in the short term. Valve stem seals were done at the same time. Well worth the effort of putting the time and effort in when the car is new to you - then the “servicing” doesn’t have to happen randomly when needed - just at the appropriate intervals for the usual oil and filter changes with a general inspection to ensure there are no other issues to attend to (eg split cv boot). Cheers Bennie

Ok, but thread digging an eleven year old thread about the EA81 probably won’t help. Post an add in the wanted sub forum Cheers Bennie

It is when it’s flashing the model designation code and has no other codes to show. Glad you got it sorted. I was going to suggest that one set of connectors are still plugged in but you found them already. Only have them plugged in without running the engine for code viewing purposes. Cheers Bennie

I used an old conveyer belt. It was a bit tight but it works well. Everything is solid, no real new noises either. Gen3 Liberty and Outback’s could be another source on the rear end. I’ll check it out next time I’m close to Basil (Sister’s Gen3 RX). Cheers Bennie

No there doesn’t as GD said. They would’ve added these devices as they became aware of crash safety. In Oz is seems like hey didn’t become a thing in our EA81s until 1984 or mid 1983 onwards. My brumby running an 82 coupe long dash does not have the fuel cut relay, but the original 1991 dash did. I’m not going to chase the rabbit down the wiring hole of retro fitting this device, but I will fit an EJ that will do that for me Cheers Bennie

A CEL when driving indicates a fault. It will only flash when you plug in the check connectors. If it’s flashing consistently while driving it could be a problem with the auto or something else I’m not familiar with. If it’s intermittently flashing, or flashing under certain conditions that usually indicates a sensor that has an issue but then clears up. It could be a stored code that will point you in the right direction. I’ve not heard of the ECU cracked soldier issues. I run a 1993 EJ22 and factory ECU in my L series off-roader. It has not suffered any ECU related issues even though it’s seen plenty of rough roads, countless corrugations, dirt, moisture etc - more than a standard road going EJ22 would ever see. So from where I’m at, I don’t think that’s your issue - but GD would see more of these than I ever will too. You could see if you can borrow an ECU to swap in and see if that’s solves your issue. Cheers Bennie

The EAs were notorious for pulling exhaust studs. I’ve not had this issue on the EJ engines. Lucky? Either way I don’t have the same angst with EJ exhaust studs like I do with EA units! Make sure you’re not over tightening the exhaust nuts as that will pull studs for sure. Tighter is not always better. Cheers Bennie

Can swap 4wd rear end in to the 2wd. Will have to drill holes and work out how to get captive nuts in there for the moustache bar mounts. 4 speed must come over to the 2wd body for the 4wd. The 5spd box is 2wd only and can’t be modified to be a 4wd box. Cheers Bennie

Been done before with some cutting and welding to fit the stock air cleaner on the Weber. It’s on the forum here somewhere. Cheers Bennie

Yes, as you read page by page you write them out on some card or paper. Works for me. Cheers Bennie

@Step-a-toe - Send us your engine management loom, I’ll cut it down for you mate It’s not that hard, you just need to know how to read a wiring diagram and know what to cut and what to keep... the first one is always the hardest. Cheers Bennie

Should be a bucket of fun once you get it back together and running! Cheers Bennie

Get the front drive shafts too. At some point in the Gen3s (or was it the foresters, I can’t remember now!) they went from diff stub axle with cotter pin to hold drive shaft on to drive shaft pushed into diff held by a C clip on the driveshaft. This changes the bearing tensioner setup and the oil seal as a result of this change. Having the matching driveshafts come with the gearbox ensures you have what you need to drop in and go. Cheers Bennie

First I’ve heard about using locktite on the crank bolt! I always use a small bit of grease to ensure I’m getting all the torque on the bolt properly. Never had an issue. Will cross reference service manual. Cheers Bennie

Hey Jarsky, What are you roughing up with scotchbrite? You said the centre diff bearings were replaced, the ones on the output shaft are separate to the centre diff bearings. These are above and behind the centre diff. And yes, if the rear output of the gearbox isn’t covered you can easily get dirt and sand in there. If the box sits around for long enough dust can be an issue too. Could be a good idea to source a second box to sit and wait for January or to throw in if something does go bang. Could even do whatever centre diff mod you did to make it RWD, then it’s a drop in setup Cheers Bennie

Here it is. Extreme long shot!! One pic still works on the last page. I assume all the others are dead too. Cheers Bennie

Could be the rear output shaft bearings whining. Or the bearing between 4th and 5th. This can lead to the gearsets moving and not lining up properly, ultimately ending in the destruction of the gearbox. You might have other signs of bearing wear of this manner - on light cruise at 60km/h or ~35mph in top gear it’ll slip out of gear. As it gets worse it’ll start happening in 4th too. This is what we experienced with my sister’s high km gearbox in her Gen3 Liberty/Legacy. We swapped it for a second hand gearbox that we took a punt on. The centre diff was shot - but you’ll be swapping that anyway for your RWD setup. There was a guy on this forum from memory that made a bellhousing adaptor to fit a dedicated RWD gearbox to the EJ engine. I think it ran a Toyota or Nissan engine - can’t remember which one. It might be worth looking into. Cheers Bennie

I’m not up with that later model stuff - so take this with whatever, I could be completely wrong! Did you take the whole immobiliser system across to the new car, including the key from the donor? You’ll need the transponder in the key to talk to the security system - and you’ll need the receiver aerial on the ignition barrel if you don’t already have one/it. Thats my limited understanding of the factory security - everything needs to be match matchy! Hope this helps. Cheers Bennie