el_freddo

Direct bolt in. Dual range lever is needed and rear diff must match as mentioned already. Cheers Bennie

@Geoff F - what marks did you use for each cam? Cheers Bennie

That stuff is known to block up radiators! Cheers Bennie

Someone recently posted a link to MY/EA81 rear shafts. Can’t remember where I saw it though. Cheers Bennie

It won’t be a throw out bearing. More likely either third gear is worn out. Cheers Bennie

@Monacle-Pete - and use factory MLS HGs. Cheers Bennie

Good! I doubt the auto would be up to an EJ. You’ll love the EJ with the manual. Watch out in wet weather when putting the pedal down! Cheers Bennie

Would this be the correct part number for the STi oil pump? 15010AA360 Cheers Bennie

If it’s the EA81 turbo then no. You need the 4wd Leone from ‘85 onwards. 4wd/AWD coupes will also work basically anything 4wd L series/Leone from ‘85-94 Cheers Bennie

Nice. When mine gave up I resoldered several of the factory solder joints and it’s good as gold. Pulling it out and refitting it took longer than the fix once the iron was hot! Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate. Now to hunt for a good pump at a decent price! Cheers Bennie

I’m finally putting together my EJ20G for my AUDM RS liberty wagon. (Those rims are dead now) It’s not going to be an all out attack vehicle, more so closer to stock just to enjoy the drive. My question, mainly asked of @GeneralDisorder, is this. Would this 12mm oil pump do a good job to avoid oil starvation at some point in its life? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-91-11-Subaru-2-0L-2-2L-2-5L-SOHC-High-Performance-Oil-Pump-EJ20T-EJ25T-EJ22T/400782310472?hash=item5d507cbc48:g:17UAAOSwxH1ULDJz If not, what would you recommend? I remember someone saying somewhere that the EJ22 oil pump isn’t great (first I’ve heard), but I can’t find the reference to this. This build will have wrx heads with the hydraulic buckets over valve setup. I don’t need solids, shim over or shim under as I’m not for all out high rev gear changes everyday, maybe occasionally. Cheers Bennie

Tried replacing the coolant temp sensor? This could be a bit left field, check the cam belt timing marks are still aligned correctly. And check for vacuum leaks. Cheers Bennie

That’s a fair effort mate! Don’t worry, I spent six months trying to work out why my old EA82 would only run on one cylinder bank or the other. We had all the timing marks lined up “correctly” when putting the belts on. But you must have one cam 180 degrees out in relation to the other one. 6 MONTHS of on and off work between uni before we cracked that nut! The main thing to take away is the spirit of giving it a go, and when the chips are down, continue giving it a go while keeping an open mind and reaching out for help. Many will not give something new a go, because the risk of failure is “too high”. Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Also, do you still have the air dam section under the engine that mounts to the bottom of the radiator support panel? Not having this can effect the airflow through the radiator at high speeds. For those that still have factory radiators that are getting old, replace them! I learned this the hard way with a freshly rebuilt EA82 cooked when the side of the (looked good internally) radiator blew out. That was in 2007. I don’t trust plastic end tank radiators for long anymore. Cheers Bennie

Replaced radiator? Cheers Bennie

I think Saab also did a restyles legacy too. I rode in one in 2009 when I was in the states and we visited a friend that had it. That was when I became aware that Subaru and Saab did this. Later I found out about the chev forester. This probably happened as a result of GM owning Subaru for a while there (or at least having a decent stake in it!). Cheers Bennie

What Imdew said. Also investigate your fuel pump if that IACV hose is properly connected. Cheers Bennie

Also check the contacts in the combination switch. If they’re anything like the L series they will need cleaning/filing flat much like the old points in distributors. I hope it’s an easy fix Jonno. Another thing, have you tried a regular globe to eliminate the LED setup as the real issue. You could be chasing a red herring if the LED system doesn't check out in the first place. Cheers Bennie

Unless your tyres are directional. I usually just do front to rear on the same side these days. Cheers Bennie

Goes to show I don’t read that language! Cheers Bennie

What you need is to drop the rear swing arm mount the same amount as your strut lift has. This will put the wheel back in more of a central position. So odd to see a rebadged and styled subaru like that. It’s never happened over here. Cheers Bennie

Jack up the front end of the car and run it in 1st (very carefully letting the clutch out). Get out with it idling in gear and watch each wheel rotate. You could have a tyre with a bubble in it or it’s out of round, or you could have a bent hub (been there done that). Or it could be something like the hub not being completely centred on the hub and studs. Are they factory rims (less likely to be the issue)? The drift shafts to the front wheels could cause problems with vibrations, but not through the steering, you’ll feel that throughout the whole vehicle. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

Electronic tuning radio? What is that anyway? ECU is what I know it as in that listing. Cheers Bennie

That a serious boat anchor! Move on. Either replace the EA81 or drop an EJ in its place and smile from ear to ear whenever you fire it up Cheers Bennie