el_freddo

Double check the ratio of the gearbox. They also come as 3.7 ratio. Cheers Bennie

Me too! Cheers Bennie

Yes that is true. But you’ve taken what my message way out of context. Year and model doesn’t matter in terms of kit specifics or how to set up the timing. It’s either SOHC or DOHC. Procedure to correctly the fit timing gear is specific to DOHC and SOHC, but it is the same across all models with the specific cam setup it has. Probably clear as mud now, but anyway... Cheers Bennie

Well it should be an easy short shifter kit mod then Cheers Bennie

So what shifter mechanism are you using then? Cheers Bennie

Also make sure the plastic block at the base of the gear lever is in good condition. If this is sloppy, the rest of the system will be too. Cheers Bennie

Just cut the bracket off the stick that holds the shaft that pushes/pulls out of the gearbox, remount it up higher on the stick/gear lever and hey presto, you’ve got a quick shift setup. Cheers Bennie

Not hard to create a linkd in account. It’s like business Facebook. Get it in writing from Subaru that this dude is legit and go from there. Cheers Bennie

Very nice mate! Thats some interesting routing of the intercooler plumbing. Cheers Bennie

We need pics!! Cheers Bennie

He’s there to swap the air bags - and take your wrx... I’d be highly suspicious! If SOA won’t confirm the guy is legit I’d call the police. Cheers Bennie

Year and model doesn’t really matter. A timing belt is either SOHC or DOHC on a subaru. The process is the same for any SOHC. The arrow on the LHS bank indicates which cylinder is at TDC. When lining up the cam shaft it should be at about the 1:30 mark from memory. Cheers Bennie

Awesome @Ausumm! I reckon you’ll like the Outback. Throw up some pics when you get the chance! Cheers Bennie

Rear timing covers = the black covers behind the cam wheels Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum. My advice: don’t. You’re putting a quite rare engine into your van. Parts will be hard to get! Reliability - I can’t say much about that with no experience with these engines, but if they leak oil like the EA82 that they’re based from, expect oil marks left after you park up everytime. I’d recommend dropping an EJ22 in place. Or go a H6 for more power (and fuel use). The EJ series engine is well supported and it’s a solid engine that’s Uber reliable. At the end of the day it’s your call. The EJ is done and dusted time and time again - a proven conversion. Cheers Bennie

The RELAY is under the dashboard beside the main loom power relay. The power wire to the fuel pump is usually a thick black/red stripe wire. Cheers Bennie

Well you inspired me to check it out last night. Good weather for it, mid 20’s, loads of mozzies Turned out a shim on the inner pad was rubbing the disc momentarily. I’d also fitted the inner pads the wrong way around. Double Retainer bolt was loose. Thought to myself “that was lucky!”. Went to the RHS to swap the pads and the retainer bolt was MISSING. Not happy. Found a new bolt. All is good. No noises now Cheers Bennie

Dodgy title alert!! Doesnt sound good mate - the car issue. You might have got lucky and the batt gave out before the coolant boiled. Cheers Bennie

There is no difference between the belts when using the old and new style tensioner. The ONLY belt differences is between the SOHC and the DOHC belts. You should be using the SOHC belt. As for the no start - did you disconnect or remove the cam or crank sensors? These are vital sensors for the ECU to time fuel and spark pulses with. Cheers Bennie

I thought about it yesterday when cruising into town... it has to be something like a bent edge of the dust shield but I can’t work it out with the wheel in place. I’ll definitely update this thread once I work out what it is. Not drive ability issues associated with the noise. Cheers Bennie

I reported it to a mod/admin Cheers Bennie

I wish my phone would show the pics Sounds like it was a real gem Regards Bennie

Don’t worry, I change my clutch cable when they break. Not always convenient but I get the most out of them that way Cheers Bennie

I reckon the thieves may have practiced/learned how to drive a manual in your Subi. That or they just don’t know how to and rode the clutch hard. The 4wd/clicking issue. If it’s actually in 4wd there could be an issue with a front driveshaft - possibly a broken CV joint that won’t transfer power to the wheel, selecting 4wd allows the vehicle to be driven, effectively in rear wheel drive. $1000 sounds about right for parts and labour with a clutch replacement. DIY would drop this to about $300 in parts I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Hey mate, good score on the jump seats too! Hopefully in wicked condition with the canopy on there. I too am a Montero fan. We have a Gen3 NP diesel auto in my family. Over here they’re called a Pajero... if you speak Spanish you’ll know why they’re called Montero or Shogun in other places. Cheers Bennie