czny

IIRC, some one on this board "talked well" of Fenco axles long ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fenco-CV2531-reman-CV-Axle-Assembly-85-94-Subaru-GSP-Powerline-CV66011-/291618631556?fits=Year%3A1989%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL%7CSubmodel%3ATurbo%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.8L&hash=item43e5d32f84:g:~t4AAOSwXeJXfWp8&vxp=mtr#shpCntId Edit: also made in China.....oooppss!

It's really not that complicated. Looking for a short between circuits or to ground directly you move the meter along the harness until the meter stops. Putting the flasher/lamp assembly in the powered circuit allows you to see the meter swing when the circuit makes & breaks. Its figuring which circuit wiring to open up for the flasher/lamp. Having worked with old British & American wiring when the insulation becomes faulty causing shorts is where I learned this trick. Included some diagrams to help you grossgary. Here's a vintage meter for you........http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Vintag-Sears-Starter-Current-DC-Amperes-Meter-Guage-Nice-Condition-Original-/152213203453?hash=item23709d29fd:g:ugAAAOSwIgNXuQeE&vxp=mtr Here's the new version of that tester: http://www.gearwrench.com/auto-specialty/battery-ignition-electrical/gearwrench-2524d-short-circuit-detector.html Alternate product: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-25300-Circuit-Detector/dp/B000RFOP1I/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk/161-9069080-3861028 Short tester.pdf

If its a short in the circuit buried in a taped loom an ammeter like this together with a signal flasher & small lamp in series works for finding the short between wires. The meter needle will stop swinging back & forth when you've passed the short in the wire pair. Interrupt the circuit between the control switch(reverse light switch for instance) with the flasher relay/lamp then move the ammeter along the harness until you find the short. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321985103947?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Helps diagnose a failing starter too.

If you wait for the discounts you could get that 20 ton for $160 & use the difference toward some nice press plates like from SWAG offroad: http://www.swagoffroad.com/ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES_p_7.html Those arbor plates supplied with HF presses just aren't what I would call safe at any speed. And for fabbing brackets & skid plates: http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Press-Brake-DIY-Builder-Kit_p_40.html

Here's your hood ornament: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Texas-Bull-Horn-Truck-Hood-Ornament-Bullhorn/121093244190?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D34883%26meid%3De540d2a68dae465fa54f7684d832b86a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D121817739034 Just add some chrome airhorns to the roof & call it done.

Scott, I RE-read your post. Seems you already have everything you need.

They sold you turbo axles. Return them for the correct ones. If reman they should have 3 bands in the outer end next to the CV boot & 23 splines in the female inner end. Read...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73071-ed-rachs-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/

Had an issue with my 87 spfi bogging about 6 months ago. No codes at all. Went from slight to cutting out under any load but would rev freely in neutral. Got so bad that I had to rev the engine while slipping the clutch to move. Limped home that way. The ignition module had failed in the distributor. Replaced the crank angle distributor with a used one. Later on this killed my cat converter so that had to be replaced too before I could pass smog. Here's the TPS switch adj procedure from the Haynes manual.

Could hybrid axles be built using OB inner cups & SVX axles to work with the OB 4.44 rear diff? I'm asking this as a courtesy to the buyer of my 4.44 VLSD, who also has an SVX.

5628K332 is a tougher material & $10.91/ft.

Did you look at the duct hoses? May be something there less pricey. http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=z9lgrc http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=z9ljt4

"Anyone know where to get long, large diameter shock / driveshaft boots? It looks like there are about a half dozen brands, none have sizes listed, and the ones I've tried are too small for these struts. Something at least 2.5" inside diameter and 12" long would be nice." http://www.mcmaster.com/#protective-bellows/=z9kbsa "Anybody know where to get M12x1.25, M14x1.5, and M16x1.5 castle nuts?" McMaster-Carr has nyloc nuts in metric fine thread, don't know if they can special order fine castle nuts(slotted nuts).

Stumbled on this pic of the VIN plate of the 4.44 VLSD donor. It was a wrecked 2000 OB with a EJ251 engine rather than the H6! Perhaps there's some clue to this option on the VIN plate that would help the LSD hunters?

Its been at least 2 yrs since I pulled that VLSD so perhaps it was a 2000 OB. Diffs & axles will swap as needed.

No. I have 2 4.44 ratio R160 diffs from Lego OBs & only one has the VLSD inside. The VLSD came out of an H6 engine OB, the open diff came out of an EJ H4 engine OB. Both were 4EAT trans of course.

I have a 99 lego OB 4.44 R160 VLSD here I'd like to sell. My zip is 91010. PM if interested. Edit 10.05.15: Sorry gang. This VLSD has sold!

tanner93loyale I have a slightly used 90 loyale radiator to sell. PM sent. For anyone else, here's some pics. Bottom mounting pins are 22 inches apart. It is a brass single core radiator.

Yup. The dash wiring harness has more connectors proprietary to the digidash cluster & trip computer, etc. You'd have to kluge two harnesses together to include heater/fan, lights & dimmer, etc to function. I sure wasn't going to tear apart my only econo car dash just to make up a harness for someone else. Too much like work.....think I'll watch the show.

Translation: Hi, I'm a Chilean & I would like it very much if someone could help me with green digidash electrical schematics & the 1993 Loyale analog electrical schematic. (Eyesroll) If you really want help start your own thread.........sans sarcasm. Then again there's this gem from Marlin Crawler for the newbies.......... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6112.0 Have a NICE day.

Karhu, Your digidash is at the shipping company & you have a PM. czny

Sorry Crazyeights. Many unfortunate things have happened since I last posted in this thread. I have boxed up the digidash & harness for shipping to Karhu. I won't unpack it, sorry. Its gone as far as I'm concerned. There is another new member from Chile asking questions on this conversion, but I just don't have time for it now. Good luck to you all.

I've got a pair off my 87 EA82 I'd be willing to let go of. PM your mailing address & I'll figure out the shipping. Make an offer for them in the PM too.

Did you check out your kitchen for a new cutting board. Like under the toaster oven maybe?

If you had them they should look like these. They are 15.3mm ID x 33.7 mm OD x 3.0 mm thick. Find some hardened washers and open up the ID to 15.3 mm if you can't find them. These washers must be in between the top hat & the strut mount otherwise the steering will bind up. After you get your caster & struts figured out, the toe-in ought to be about 1/8-3/16"(3 to 5 mm) toe out. At least that was what worked best for my 87 GL wagon.

Max temperature for HDPE is 180*F: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hdpe/=tvp66t You might find something better at McMaster-Carr for material. Multipurpose Garolite(G-10) is expensive but has the tensile strength & impact resistance you'd want. Glass-filled plastics have the impact resistance but you have to machine them with carbide tools, adding to the expense.