idosubaru

Yes. That’s the rear of the camshaft right? assemble and install the plastic caps that go there. Camshaft plugs they might be called.

It runs fine without a thermostat? How long was it driven without one? How do you know it ran fine before all the work? Is this someone else’s car who told you that or you’ve been driving it for years? You seem adamant it’s not, but this is the classic start of a case that ends up being headgasket.

I’d suggest getting 16” Forester turbo wheels and if you must stick with those vulnerable 17” stock wheels - If I had to guess the BFGs will be a strong candidate. Generally, for what you’re looking for - you get what you pay for. Cheaper tires tend to reduce side wall strength and chemicals that mitigate UV/oxygen degradation for longevity. average consumers aren’t good purveyors of those traits. So companies can easily cut expense there. Have you considered getting larger sidewall tires? You could use the lid time standard Outback 16” wheels. The 16” Forester turbo (and maybe some non turbos) are super sharp wheels The 2005+ trend to increase wheel diameter and lessen the tire side wall makes them more vulnerable. I live in an area where gravel roads are common. I see tons of 2005+ Subarus with busted side walls and those bumps on the side walls (do they have a name)? My 2009 legacy has a large protruding bump now. It’s so common I’m just leaving it. I’m tired of replacing them, this set will be replaced soon, these are otherwise great tires, and this car isn’t that critical. Tire companies change brands all the time for marketing purposes so it’s hard to see good quality long time reviews and consumers in aggregate aren’t great reviewers for a huge number of reasons. Example: general Altimax tires are a very common tire here that performs well and is priced well. But they have weak side walls and I see them fail all the time here. The online reviews don’t mention this. So reviews aren’t great but: Id still look at reviews to see what they say.

Check the timing belt and tensioner. Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the intake when it's stumbling and see if that smooths it out? What happens if you prop the idle open by hand or drive with partial throttle like 10 mph - does it stumble then? Or just at idle? If it's happening just at idle I'd swap in another idle control valve. Is the fuel pump aftermarket? Pressure looks good but I don't trust aftermarket subaru pumps/alternators/starters - they're routinely garbage and fail or work poorly.

I might have a 96-98 legacy cat - you want me to check?

the transmissions are $6,500

Excellent low mileage.

They’re solid vehicles. Prices seem to be subsiding. If you can wait a few more months, don’t buy now tax returns still in play. Economy will continue to stall and people will be spending on summer travel houses pools land scaping and cars are second fiddle.

If you mean “new” I’d get the extended 120k warranty and buy whatever you want. I avoid warranties generally, and haven’t priced them recently but they were a very reasonable deal a year or two ago when acquaintenances/friends were getting them Ascent for space Crosstek for resale Outback for interior space usability As others have stated the Rav 4 and Toyotas in general are impeccable for reliability.

All the 90's EJ25's are 4.44 final drive so use any AT from 2.5 equipped 98 and earlier Subaru: 1996-1998 Outback, Forester, or any 1996-1998 Legacy models with 2.5 (LSi, etc).

95-98 Legacy Forester Outback Impreza all work. Generally 2.5s are 4.44 final drive and 2.2s are 4.11. occasionally there’s an oddball. make sure the final drive matches or swap diff to match. 95-96 FWD auto trans will bolt up and plug and play work as well.

Yea. It’s 100% benign for pre 2005 models. The ECU doesn’t use that data for fuel trim. It’s not indicative of anything but emissions. the biggest issue is you can’t tell when the code trips again. It’s routinely ignored in states that don’t check the check engine light for emissions or inspections for 100s of thousands of miles. Install an extender $10 on eBay and the code will go away. It’s just a spacer - remove rear O2 sensor, install spacer and reinstall O2 sensors into the spacer. It just makes the rear O2 sensor sit a little off the exhaust stream which is enough to trick 90% of them to not trip the code. repair usually includes replacing the converter. Aftermarkets sick and can cause the same issue in 1 month or 2 years. Subaru converters are $500+. So it’s not economical to repair if it’s not needed. it can often be caused also (conflating causes with an tires converter) due to an exhaust leak, fuel trim, vacuum leak, etc. but it’s nearly impossible to track down unless you’re a signals wizard. Most of the times the repair will be installing a new converter and making sure the engines working properly.

Don’t know. Some of the Subaru sites post dimensions of orings. Maybe try looking to see if any of them list it to compare to the shaft measurements? I’ve replaced those but don’t recall number. I’ve always gotten the right one so my hunch is you probably found the right one.

Good to see you beast! Lots of your parts went to good use and I still have quite a few! Yes cam and crank stay with the vehicle if you swap the engine swap the original crank and cam sprockets onto the new engine. Done that’s it. The swap that person did is a mountain of headache though because the idle control differences aren’t easy to work around. The ghetto work around is to just prop the throttle plate open but that’s not a great soltiuon either. good to *see* you. drove a friend to NH for grad school and passed by Albany and northern NY, beautiful.

Never seen one. Could you ask your machine shop what they think of those?

Nonturbo EJ25 with new properly installed Subaru headgaskets, full timing kit, and 4EAT. Which should be close to: 2005--2010 Forester 2005-2011 Imp 2005 - 2012 Outback/Legacy

After flushing it'll be such a small amount I'd guess it's negligible.

Yeah they’re decent combos. Also have a 2002 H6 outback with 260k on it as well. mileage is comparable to H4s only under ideal driving conditions. Even moderate City, mountains, heavy foot and they plummet quicker than H4s…which I’ve owned a ton of too. The headgaskets don’t seem quite as bad as H4s but can be a problem. I bought the Tribeca (when they were still 5 digit vehicles) with blown headgaskets (cheap) at around 120k. Installed a JDM. The OBW is all original. I’ve owned others, been around lots of H6s and seen other headgaskets and repaired them as well. It’s a beast of a job compared to H4s. I like them personally, but they can hose someone who can’t DIY or doesn’t have a good reasonably priced mechanic or doesn’t purchase them well.

Ah I see. Yeah turbos and H6s (Outback legacy Tribeca) got the 5eat. Any Outback or legacy 5eat will work but final drive needs to match. If you find a diff gear ratio swap the matching rear diff. Not sure if Tribeca will work. The 5eat isn’t the beast like 4EATs but they’re not that bad, I’d just change the fluid and see how it does. My Tribeca has 260,000 miles on a smooth as butter original trans. I’ve changed the fluid once with Amsoil.

Determine what is in your car before thinking about swaps, which isn't likely to happen anyway. 4 ways to tell: 1. look in the cabin, does the gear selector move only straight forward and back and have a button on it and the base plate says P-N-D-1-2-3-R or some simlar combination for Park, neutral, drive..etc? That's an automatic. If it's a loan stick that has play left/rigth as much as forward/back without those demarcations then it's a manual. 2. Post a pic of the gear selector/center console, and we can tell you or compare to online photos of the same 3. plug the VIN into an online VIN decoder and it'll tell you what transmission it has. 4. Auto's have a long dipstick under the brake master cylinder on the drivers side, and a front diff gear oil cap on the passengers side. Manual only has gear oil cap on passengers side. This is too funny not to mention - I'm not sure how to own a car, see the trans fluid, and pull the engine without knowing what kind of transmission it has, the process to remove the engine is slightly different for each. A 4 speed easily installs in place of a 5 speed, they're like lego's and it bolts right up, but getting it to run is mad money or labor that's out of 99.9% of people's time or money thresholds. Wiring, TCU, cruise, cables, pedal assembly, driveshaft length differences, center console.... lots of work and parts. Yes other manual transmissions in other subaru's will fit that vehicle. if they have a different gear ratio you'll need a matching rear diff and your speedo will be off by a litlte bit.

Someone post some manual racks for sale from rust free New Mexico a few times. Can’t recall if EA81 or EA82. have you looked for used one? reman racks are still available.

14 codes!!! probably improved 0-60 times not needing to process all that extra data. Lol.

I’ve never pulled a dash. I think you have access but can you get an 04 FSM? I’m out of state now but will check.

Don’t recall year/model. I remember being surprised XT6s ran fine without an instrument cluster when I had a ton of them so I did it with later EJ (or possibly EZ) and they drove fine to work. It’s odd driving not knowing if check engine light tripped, speed and engine temp. some folks on vanagon forum mentioned sometimes it takes awhile for issues to show up with a lack of VSS so maybe I got away with it for a lone commute to work? Which I say because the Subaru vanagon conversion folks have to deal with this often maybe you could see what they say if you strike out here? Let us know what you find.

It looks like parts are available. Here’s the exploded diagram: https://www.subaruparts.com/v-2014-subaru-forester--2-5i--2-5l-h4-gas/body--rear-seat-components Is it item 10, 11, or 15?