idosubaru

when installed as far as you can get it, is the TC inside the bellhousing flange? maybe it's seated but hard to tell? when the engine is installed - the TC and flexplate will not touch - the TC bolts should draw the torque converter "back out" and towards the flexplate. Can you measure the distance between the engine bellhousing and flexplate and compare that to the distance between the TC and trans bellhousing? or take pictures of both? it's so hard for us to see what's going on....though your description is impeccable actually! it seems you've spent hours on this but it's usually beginners luck or it hasn't properly aligned to seat. with any pressure it won't seat that last bit. goal is to get it aligned without any pressure, while simultaneously spinning and holding the weight of the TC so it keep everything perpendicular while aligning/seating. sounds like you have but this can be such a tedious process that it's easy to just be missing it. damage or issues seem doubtful since it has bent valves...presumably running fine before the timing belt breaking.

i've heard of other people swapping sides or even parts from one axle to the other....it does work. like uberoo said, clicking axles aren't that big of a deal and i've put 50,000 miles on clicking/busted boot axles before. clicks in reverse, lol

read the check engine codes? front O2 sensor itself is hosed or the wiring is exposed and shorting out against something? ECU doesn't use the front O2 sensor until operating temperature...so maybe? disconnect it and see if that changes how it runs? might want to mention what kind of EJ22 you're running? 90-94, 95-98, 99-01 block...and then what ECU?

the shift and other solenoids are accessible through the transmission pan - but i don't know about the TC solenoid, not that i know of. if you're wanting to dive into this i'd look for an FSM. i just pulled up my 97 Legacy FSM but ironically the trans section was missing..>?

yes - same info JCE posted applied. 97 and 99 Legacy EJ25's are the same. 97 EJ22 bolts up and plugs in. if EJ22 doesn't have EGR then you'll have to find the work around thread here and see if that works for you. you'll need an EJ22 single port exhaust manifold (any 1996-1998 EJ22) yards often don't sell them though. hit or miss. as said -use the EJ25 flexplate.

yours will probably come off without much worries, i've only seen 3 out of many that are really bad. in those cases i kicked, rotated, kicked, pried with a 6 foot digging bar, kicked probably 50 times.....and got nothing.

others have posted a suggestion...disclaimer, i don't recommend this, don't do it. short & scary version is loosen the lug nuts and drive it. longer version would include proper considerations, safety, etc... wire brush, clean up, and smear your favorite stuff on there...antiseize, grease, etc.

I have thought about that and would do that on fluid changes, brakes, and other short jobs...but there's still an opportunity (time) cost in scheduling someone else to do it - gotta call, schedule, get an estimate, drive there, drop the car off, get rides, or wait. Granted I have air tools, quality jacks, etc but I can do many short jobs quicker than the time investment in having someone else do it. So even with a high dollar on my time short jobs aren't worth it. But I don't let anyone else work on my car so of course I'm going to look at it that way. lol 2005 post back from the dead!

right, the preconverter won't matter since it'll be tested when it's warmed up anyway. spazomatic has a good point - having removed catalytic converters on XT6's and run gutted converters, i never noticed a difference in sound or performance either. i did notice a difference with larger cat back pipe and straight through mufflers, mostly in better highway mpg's and of course it sounded different.

if a car passed emissions without a catalytic converter then wouldn't every car would pass an emissions test?

I'll look at it if you bring it to my office in Morgantown. It sounds like the front differential is going out or possibly an inner DOJ on the CV axle. If the axles have ever been replaced then the axles become more likely. If the axles are original with good boots then it's unlikely. There are places around, The Sube Shop is on the mileground in Morgantown. Subaru Country is an interesting place complete with Subaru only junk yard out route 7 west, though I wouldn't really try there. I do all my own work so I can't recommend either, i've heard good things about the Sube Shop. There's also a place called Second Hand Subaru's and a Subaru lot in Fairmont, not sure if they do work but since they do Subarus they should know someone very familiar with them.

torque converter seal not a bad idea while it's there, easy access. they rarely leak though, i've never seen it happen truth be told so that's why it's not a big deal. the side seals don't replace until they leak, they leak very slowly and are easily replaced in the vehicle. their retaining rings also set bearing preload nad backlash on the front diff, so have to be very careful removing installing.

i've fixed a bunch of wrecked Subarus. yours is minor and not a big deal, sounds like you're done. at most the front control arm is bent/damaged or you should have an alignment done. you can do at home alignments and easily measure and adjust toe using a string...and even camber if you buy a tool i believe. abs - as long as it's bolted such that the hose isn't rubbing anything when the steering is turned full lock either direction youre golden.

ah ha - more information than the previous post a 99 EJ22 is the problem. the 99 EJ22 is not a plug and play swap. a 1998 or earlier EJ22 would plug right in and run. i assume he had to swap the EJ25 engine wiring harness onto the EJ22 intake manifold? or did he try something else...cut/splice anything? i'm not sure the simplest way to remedy this off the top of my head. the Phase II EJ22 may have the wrong cam timing triggers - so you'll need Phase I DRIVERS side cam sprocket and crank sprocket. you might be able to install the EJ25 sprocket onto the Ej22 - I'm not sure if you can just bolt those on and go or not though...i assume it's possible, i know you can with later models swap those parts. the crank sprocket will install just fine. sure fire way is to bolt the EJ25 heads to the EJ22 block and then use all the original EJ25 intake, sensors, cams, etc...but you wo'nt be wanting to do that.

it's all plug and play - there's nothing special about it (well unless there's something we don't know, i have to assume some things since you don't tell us what kind of EJ22). there's nothing "swap related" that should be causing this - there is something wrong with the installation (don't tell him that, i just can't think of a better way to say it on the fly) - like a bad ground or plug disconnected, etc. any Check engine light? read the check engine codes with a scanner - what comes up? was the timing belt/engine tested or is this a used/unknown engine? check all plugs, MAF, cam sensor, crank sensor, igniter, and ground wires. exactly which EJ22 did he use - year, make model?

most of us don't have the tool and have done dozens of these. line the timing marks up and remove the bolts before removing the belt so it holds the cam for you. use an impact gun - of course stop if the belt slips, but i've never had that happen yet but it could vary by equipment/tools? you can also use rubber strap wrenches to hold the pulley once the belt is removed. they are nice to get because you can use them for other things too. here's a cheap one to give you an idea, probably don't want this one but just in case you don't know what they are: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200306401_200306401?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Hand%20Tools-_-Wrenches-_-1501539&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=1501539&gclid=CLTp36HporkCFcue4AodX2IAPw there's a flatspot for a wrench on the cam. remove valve cover and put a wrench on it to hold the cam. no extra work since you're disassembling the engine anway.

pic of this tool? 3 followers fell out of my XT6 after a headgasket job

you get a better end product by picking the parts yourself. here's a list of what you need and the best parts to use for the heads up, i don't do short block rebuilds: 1.) check into using the Subaru EJ25 turbo headgaskets - those don't leak like the original non-turbo EJ25 headgaskets. folks have been using Turbo headgaskets on certain year non turbo EJ25's. be sure to resurface the heads and add Subaru's coolant conditioner too. there's an excellent thread by General Disorder on this forum about resurfacing the heads yourself, it's unbelievably easy once you source one easy to find piece. EJ25's are prone to headgasket failure this is not a good part to ignore brand on. 2.) the ebay timing belt kits are great - theimportexperts kits are good quality. get a complete kit with timing belt, tensioner, 3 pulleys, and water pump. 3.) 2 cams seals, crank seal and oil pump oring. theimportexperts will even add them to your kit if you call. tighten the oil pump backing plate screws with locktite on the threads, more than one are likely to be loose, common. 4.) Use Subaru water pump gaskets (aftermarkets are flimsy cheap cardboard, subaru's are metal and require no sealant), and thermostats - though the new XACTA thermostats look identical to Subaru's, as well as Subaru's coolant conditioner. 5.) valve cover gasket sets (which include valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets) 6.) Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and thermostat gasket (if the thermo doesn't come with it, i forget) that is everything you need for a complete reseal (short block not included) unless you're doing valve stem seals, then add those. and simple ancillary stuff like hoses, spark plugs, etc. adjust the valves when assembling. never heard of someone rebuilding a Subaru transmission. if it currently has no issues i'd change the fluids and expect another 100,000 miles out of it.

LOL shakes head...

LOL! it also helped a guy that didn't have a job...who is now doing well, working, and full time employed with benefits and married, but yeah. Now - forgetting the plates and the jackleg goes and uses those old plates...who does that!?!? now that, i do feel like a tool about. fewer gas hose connections under the hood, less chance of fuel spraying/leaking, so safety? as rare as that may seem - so are fuel filter issues, basically unheard of or outliers. in conjunction with fuel pump = easier assembly line, bypass functionality would be easier like in an oil filter but i don't know that is has that capability nor would it rarely be needed. i doubt those are the reasons, just tossing them out..

sea foam would work. fuel filters on modern vehicles easily make 100,000 miles without issue. it is silly to move it, but it's still easy at least. remove 2 12mm bolts and the rear bottom seat cushion comes out. remove 3 hoses remove 8 or so 10mm bolts for the cover plate it's not easy like the old ones but still simple and only 30 minutes.

they're only like $3 - $7 each from Mizpah so if you're not worried about cost then that's your call. as said - they're good for the life of the car if you change oil properly and when you have issues: 1. reseal the oil pump 2. replace the oil pump once you reseal the engine you'll have new cam carrier orings too, make sure you get the metal reinforced variety for the two lower corner orings. they are not regular orings as is installed in some early 85/86 EA82's. if the car has a long unknown history or questions maybe it's a good replacement time. if you've put a ton of well maintained and quiet miles on it then they're unlikely to have issues. totally doable but i dislike replacing the HLAs, cleaning up the cam carriers and reinstalling them with the rocker arms, i hate that job. so i can see erring towards doing it now while it's apart too!

starting 2006 looks like all went to in-tank filters: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/attachments/f88/15082d1228161303-fuel-filter-location-fuel-filters.jpg there's some information suggesting 2009+ have no replacement interval....not sure how true this is: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-filteri-212781.html

can't recall and since it's gotten much worse over the years i wouldn't know what it did years ago when it started. if that's all yours is doing then maybe you're lucky and it's just the switch itself? guess i should check but enough folks have had timer problems i'm sort of assuming that's it since it randomly locks itself. i'd love for it to be a switch since the timer is impossible to get to.

fairtax - mine does that too - flipping the lock doesn't unlock the others...doing it multiple times may eventually unlock them, but it's gotten much worse over the years. y'all take pix please because i couldn't get to it - i've never even bolted the bits back in place so it's ready as soon as i figure out how.