idosubaru

t-bar type works good on the Phase II EJ's? heads are bolted to engine on engine stand - chances of doing this with heads insitu?

here's a thread with a picture detailing the difference if you can't see the painted marks any more. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2042002 part of me thinks this won't matter...part of me thinks otherise. if i pull them again i need a different valve spring compressor - i've tried two. one doesn't work and the other took hours and was nearly impossible to use, always cranked at odd angles and always interfering with some part of the head.

1999 EJ22. apparently the exhaust and intake valve springs have painted marks indicating top and bottom. but nothing looked different so i assumed it didn't matter when assembling. i don't even think the paint was visible on them all or I would have noticed. i already assembled the heads, does it matter?

really? a bad ground definitely cured an issue you had? sounds easy enough, i've just never had that help anything, start to get skeptical after awhile. LOL i'll clean the grounds in the engine bay then check connectors, then pull the passengers seat. thanks john and fairtax. i'm daily driving it, it drives fine. when the ABS light is on the ABS doesn't work so no need to pull the fuse, it just defaults to regular brakes. only work was pulling the engine and the wiring to the rear trunk (sedan). i've seen some threads where multiple codes (those same 42 and 54) are caused by a bad light bulb screwing with the circuit voltages...but lights work fine and i repaired the wiring....

an exhaust shop can weld in new pipe for not much money. pipe is cheap, it could easily be done for the $200 you were hoping for. thing is many shops aren't set up to easily do welding, etc - this is where muffler and exhuast shops shine. but you have to find one you can trust that doesn't want to charge insane rates. around here and pittsburgh, PA exhaust shops charge $40 - $50 to repair a rust section of exhaust, very common in the rust belt. O2 sensor bungs are the same - easily welded in place and exhaust shops have them on hand. used is the best option probably. some aftermarkets are fairly rusty in just a year or two in the rust belt, at least some of the $80 - $150 specials on ebay are. not sure about others, probabyl last longer but not the 10+ years of OEM.

I don't want to take away from John's offer but I'll take one of those pieces of glass if it's still available. That's awesome..if you think it'll ship okay? I'm currently using something like half that thick. Can paypal or whatever immediately. Heck I might take two, combine shipping, and just get one to John somehow, I'm driving through VA this summer....

that nut/bolt is way overtigthened, they aren't normally that compressed. nice job posting a pic, that's always helpful and would have never been able to cover that with just words. that nut and bolt looks decent, not too rusty. hose it down really good with penetrant (liquick wrench, PB Blaster, Yield, Kroil) 2 or 3 times the week prior to getting into it and you'll be able to reuse those bolts/springs. the stock stuff doesn't need anything - just bolt it up and you're golden. if you get new stuff, mail me those old springs/nuts - they're all rusted away and never reusable around here! sometimes gotta wrestle the exhaust in place, fighting the rubber hangers, etc, but no big deal or special tools. if yo'ure not using stock OEM Subaru then it just depends what you're using if it's long enough or not. the auto parts stores won't sell anything that's a direct fit/replacement, you'll have to get some standard ones off the shelf...and then they won't be metric and some of them the spring is too small and fits in the hole of the exhaust or they're too big and cover the lip of the flange..etc....i'd keep the ones on there or maybe buy new ones from Subaru if they're not too in$ane. have a wire brush attachment on a drill to get off all the rust first before treating it. it'll clean up quickly with that. I'm not sure if it matters and I'm not sure why, though i've wondered, but some rust treatments have temperature limits. like the rust converter/primer stuffs. i also don't know how hot that part of the exhaust gets but someone with a temp gun could find out. i'd do it with mine but i'll never remember. LOL

exactly, unplug the TCU and it'll be in 3rd gear with transfer clutches fully locked. splice into the Duty C circuit and you can control that one circuit - give it power so it's not locked. i unplug the transmission connector in the engine bay by the engine electrical connector, don't know if that matters or not but probably not is my guess. i drove an XT6 like that for like a year. slow on take off in 3rd, about like an EA82, perfectly usable. LOL. be a breeze in flatland. people mis-diagnose and mis-describe things so often that i wouldn't put much stock in his description, particularly if he's not willing to "explain it any further". 9 times out of 10 those people are wrong, way off, or don't want to repeat to a potential buyer how they describe it to their friends. LMAO

well, well, well. so my 210,000 front struts might not be helping? already replaced the rears and the fronts are coming this summer, guess i'll do it sooner rather than later.

i've never installed bushings before so i wouldn't know. these are definitely hard to remove, folks have spent inordinate amounts of time hogging them out, i think i'd aim for having press if that's possible. or torch them out and clean up the rest. i've torched bushings out before when remove rear diffs with rusted bolts. installing i have no idea. sounds like these whitelines might be a good fit for you, they sounds like an in between...you could probably find some reviews on them, search google via the part number or something. if i were installing new bushings i'd go with these.

Reply from Whiteline on the bushings mentioned and linked to above, looks like these might be a better option than the prothane used by Luckytexan. But there isn't really much point since there isn't much cost savings...$50 per bushing if you install it yourself, if you have to get a shop to do it the price is about a wash from buying from Subaru. My time or hassle with a shop wasn't worth saving $30.

often times the parking brakes are dragging inside the rotor. adjust it as he said. sometimes the inside of the rotors are so rusty that they really need pulled off and wire brushed. if the rotors sat for awhile unused then this starts sounding more likely. dust shields also rub. wheel bearing.

sensors probably won't matter as you suspect. you need to count and compare the trigger marks on the back of the cam sprockets...unless you run into some other thing to check.

You're on it, well done - start grabbing/pushing and pulling under there on sway bars and tie rods - if they're loose you'll know it. Clunking I would be is the sway bar bushing. Can you move the sway bar around by hand, slide it inside the bushings? Struts clunk too but I've never been able to test one...they're just usually obvious...or so i think anyway...being very outer in their location and wheel dependent. I've never heard a Subaru ball joint make noise before but obviously it's possible. Ball joints are funny - they are really easy to do....unless you have rust/seized bits to work with. then they become a serious problem. there are three problem areas: 1. getting it out of the control arm 2. getting it out of the knuckle 3. removing the pinch bolt without shearing it off Solutions: 1. pickle fork - that's the one tool that works every time to get the joint out of the control arm. 3. soak it in good penetrant (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Yield) for many days prior. If #3 goes okay, #2 is the problem child. I haven't found a tool that gets all the insanely bad ones out...there's a trick involving putting a socket between the hub and control arm...find one of those threads and be prepared to do that. Folks in non-rust areas will make it seem easy....maybe you'll get lucky but make sure you're aware how quickly this can turn into a debacle if serious rust is a possibility where you live.

great, thanks. i've done some rebuilds/wrecks/measuring before so i can do that.

Got these three ABS codes, 42, 52, 54. Cleared codes and they come back in a few minutes of driving. 1999 Subaru legacy sedan automatic 159,000 miles. I'll clean ground wires close to ABS pump and start there. My guess is that won't fix it though. Brake lights work fine, I checked since bulbs/light issues can cause voltage problems and incidentally trip mulitple codes. The reverse lights weren't working due to a broken wire where the harness pirvots for the trunk opening. But I repaired that last year and the lights all work as they should.

excellent! the EZ30 engines are awesome. they're nearly bullet proof and hardly a need for a rebuild, they easily clock 300,000 miles without issues. one of Subaru's best engines, that's why my daily drivers have them. valve covers, spark plugs, spark plug tube seals, oil cooler gasket, are common leak points. PCV valve good to replace, that's easy. reseal timing chain cover, replace timing tensioners/warn timing guides, oil pan, and headgaskets if you're really amped to get into it. but those are rarely issues. water pump replacement would be simple with timing cover/chain removed.

yep, wheel bearings. i'm surprised it got this bad, having noticeable play and you never noticing or commenting on prior issues before. but i guess the loud music was a key player we didn't know. LOL a temp gun will verify it if you're still doubtful. but i'm not. this isn't your issue but ordering the right year/make/model for a Subaru doesn't guarantee getting the right caliper/rotor/pad. there's a comprehensive list detailing the vast array of brake combinations and it's mind numbing and convoluted, leading to confusion. i bought 2002 OBW brake pads for my friends OBW and they were not the right pads...hers were different and i had to order some odd ball year Subaru to get the right ones, match them up visually. I own two of the same vehicle and a close friend has one as well - all 2002 and 2003 with the same brakes....hers were different for some reason. I have a thread on here about it. But here's the thing - that story is not rare or anecdotal, happens fairly often with Subaru brakes.

excellent, glad you figured it out and cheap too and no down time. lucky texan was on it when he said to rotate the tires front to back!!

any check engine light/code - have you read the code yet? all sensors plugged in - cam and crank? igniter plugged in and working? some EJ engines around the 2001 era have different cam sprockets and you have to switch them to get it to fire correctly. the trigger marks are different. compare the trigger marks on back side of the cam associated with the cam sensor on the new engine to that of the old engine. shouldn't be that though, there is another guy that stopped one of these DOHC JDM engines in his and it ran.....

good points. i think if they all didn't rust away out here it would be far more appealing. my last two XT6's came from texas and california. the litany of cheap parts i've amassed over the years has the possibility of many inexpensive miles. got a mpg reading yet? i have an XT and FWD EJ trans and EJ18 i'd like to drop in it.....

excellent, nice leg work. as i suspected i didn't think this would turn out to be a seized or failing caliper. is it possible you have a different caliper than the original, slightly different size? Subaru was quite freaky about brake changes, they made them all the time and there are a few different dual piston caliper pad varieties from 99-02 that get confusing....wonder if one caliper could be slightly different than another...or rotor for that matter?

yes, i did it years ago to the legacy LSi in my sig and it's far easier than swapping wiring harnesses. simply bolt the EJ22 intake manifold right on top of the EJ18 and install a knock sensor, done. the EJ18 manifolds are ugly and convoluted anyway. some have an exhaust port i think on the passengers side head that needs covered up but that's cake and takes 5 minutes for someone doing an engine swap.

Did the vehicle sit for an extended period of time? Someone just recently had a 1991 subaru legacy on this forum that had issues and when he pulled the pan the screen was all crudded up with debris. This is rare and those screens are basically never dirty, they are pointless to replace even on 200,000 miles Subaru's, i've never seen a spec in them. But...apparently this one sat for awhile and got some kind of debris in it - time, corrosion, animal, bugs...who knows but it picked up something. May want to check the internal screen (it's hardly to be considered a filter though it is called that), particularly so if this car sat for any length of time. How many miles? Any check engine light? Is the AT or transmission light blinking 16 times at start up? Is the transmission pan dented (starving fluid flow - there is very little clearance between the pan and internal filter)? I've seen folks have cut solenoid wires too - inspect the wiring when the pan is off. Pulling hte transmission electrical harness apart will force it into completely mechanical mode - which means 3rd gear only....not sure if that's worth a shot on a trans that has current issues, up to you as a test or to get around in. i drove one for a year with only 3rd gear. it also locks the transfer clutches though but you can work around that but make it FWD or installing a switch on one wire to turn the Duty C on or off as needed.

i didn't, that was for bushings, sorry for the confusing title, it won't let me edit it. $110 for whiteline bushings, divided by two = $50 per side roughly. control arms are like $100 or something and do NOT come with those rear bushings and the front bushings which do come with the control arms are apparently not prone to fail or cause issues like the rears so i'm ignoring those for the moment. you have to buy aftermarket bushings and press them in/out or buy the linkage with bushings already in it for $80+ each from Subaru or aftermarket. i stumbled across transverse linkage assembly for $22 but they only had 4 and i bought all 4, maybe they're not the right part or made from chinese toy plastic, but they appear to be right at this point. i haven't installed them yet. you can probably try to find some good used ones - from a much newer model and lower mileage maybe. www.car-part.com should have them for like $15 or less.....shipping would be nearly nothing if you can get them to sell you just that rear bushing if you can't find one locally.