ShawnW

A photo...maybe we can guess what the edge of the hood matches it?

If yours is an ea81 body your in the same boat I am. If its an ea82 body run the xt bracket on the trans and the legacy pitch stopper up to the existing mount.

Sorry but you won't make it that many miles with the engine in this state. If you fix it now you probably can avoid having to replace the shortblock...keep driving it in this condition and you will warp the block and I am certain you probably already have warped heads.

I think it would eventually give out.

I found this photo (stole from Webshots thanks to Subarino for it). How did you get it to mount to the trans? Im running an RX trans with an xt type bracket mounted on the tranny. The trans mount end is dead center on the car but the pitch stopper is off to the left. I was thinking I would drill out the existing bolt and run one off to the other side so it would like up.

Yes.

1 vote here for the 1 piece. It costs some $ cuz they replace the entire pipe that runs between the yokes, replace the u joints with greasable serviceable ones usually, and of course the labor to do the work. I think I paid $150 or so for the shaft last time.

Damn those are cool shots!

That sounds like the updated gasket. Failure could be warped gasket surfaces, clogged radiator, bad water pump, aftermarket thermostat, blown hose.......cant blame the gasket 100%.

Imprezas have their place in the lineup for sure and you grow to not miss some of those options you listed. Heck, drive an old hatchback (80-89) for a while and then get back in your legacy.

Almost sure its going to be the big elect connectors on the bell housing area that are a problem here. Unplug, vaseline, and reconnect listening for a click. Also make sure the ground wire on the starter is connected and solid.

Ironic that the base model 90/91's had them and the people that bought the top of the line got the CD player installed below the factory radio and that wasn't included...cuz what would you ever plug into it now that you have a HIGH TECH doohikie for CD SPINNING IN THE DASH! Techology is so great. Short answer, none of the factory radios built to date have any sort of input into the back of the head unit for AUX input. Get an aftermarket radio that reads MP3 discs, burn the MP3's to cheap blank CD's and lose the mess of having your ipod run everywhere you go, subjected to theft, heat, vibration, etc.

You need to contact CCR directly by phone for a quote but CCR will not warranty a shortblock for 3yr/36K....only 1yr/12k. This is because too many factors involved with final assembly of the engine come into play. You will also find that the cost savings is not worth it and at times CCR won't even sell a shortblock because of parts availability along with other reasons..at times they have to reserve available parts to be allocated for longblocks. The full longblock is a MUCH better deal as you get triple the warranty, all the new timing belt components, rebuilt and surfaced heads, timing belt plastic, genuine oil filter, metal breather plate for the back of the engine, platinum spark plugs, oil pan, tedious valve adjustment is done, piston slap is virtually if not 100% eliminated, etc along with the time savings compared to assembly yourself. Buying all the parts yourself to do the engine build right will probably meet or exceed the cost CCR charges for it already built and includes a warranty. Its a very expensive engine to build. If you do order a shortblock make sure your cyl heads are absolutely 100 percent flat and if theres any doubt take them to a shop and have them decked flat. Also be sure to order only Genuine Subaru head gaskets and if its a 96-99 DOHC engine make sure they provide you the updated multi layer gaskets.

Replace with EJ18. Thats the ultimate for a Subaru 1.8 IMO.

Its not every day you get to drive a 75 coupe across Denver. Even with 50 HP on its finest day, and auto trans, bad brakes, the volt light on solid, voltage so low the turn signals dont want to Flash, etc...that car is fun to drive around cuz everybody looks at it in awe. Dare I say "chicks dig it" but we all know better...somewhere theres one that will dig it though...KEEPER!!! Especially if shes younger than the car. The guy that towed it from where it died to S-Wings was a total nut but he towed it safely on a flatbed no less. That car was strapped down tight and snug and he really thought it was cool. He looked the other way on the expired tags and the fact that it isnt mine...and why wouldnt he...he gets paid to tow it either way. Mike at S-Wings hung around his shop till 7:00 just to be around for the coupes arrival and to lock it inside his shop for safe keeping...above and beyond again. Hes seen a lot of oldies before but was still impressed by it. As for the engine the hard part will be finding the cyl head gasket rings along with all the rest of the genuine parts that unfortunately have probably been tossed by every dealership in the country. The water pump has a weephole leak. We fixed the oil pressure problem and the engine sounded consideribly happer at idle. The mid section of the exhaust has had 3 different resonators installed on it which makes me laugh a little...at the thought of somebody thinking THIS little car was too loud. The carb is also in need of some work but these are all little things.

Spend a little more and get your parts from somebody that has a clue what they fit. Next time try a MWE axle. www.ccrengines.com/mwe Marshall builds them RIGHT the first time and alot tougher build so less likely to click down the road.

If all else fails split the block, tilt the halves as wide as they can on each side and remove 2 rods at a time. Then remove the pistons with the rod halves disconnected from the crank.

Power steering fluid leak?

Ive been talking to my friend and axle builder Marshall who runs MWE axles and we think we have the recipe for making 5 lug swap axles...legacy outers and 23 or 25 spline inner joints. We also think it would be OK to receive Ea81 cores for them as to save the PITA factor for the customer. They'd be time consuming but hes willing if theres a demand. So: If you have an ea81 car.... And you lifted it...... Then the strut tops are taken care of by a X" spacer that has the ea81 top and the 5 lug strut type bottom. From there you need a customized Control arm and what else? -----Do the tie rod ends work with the 5 lug knuckles? -----Brake line ends same?

90-94 2.2 legacy cars..... you can use something called B10Scan. Google that and Subaru together and you ought to come up with it. On top of that you need to take a printer parallel cable, modify 3-4 wires and crimp them into a legacy stereo male plug according to the B10 instructions. Its free (software) and if you have a cars wiring harness lying around you can get a plug off it instead of the radio plug (free again). I bought a 20 dollar laptop off craigslist just for running the B10 but any laptop (PC type) will boot off the CD pretty much and work. 95 and up use OBDII scanner. Harbor freight sells a $35 one that will get you the code number and from there you can compare it to the FSM list....splurge for the $100-300 scanner and you can get fuel injector %'s, O2 sensor info, etc as well.

Might be okay for taking it apart but for re-torquing I would use the real tool.

Yes, that indicates ring wear. Id also say if you have an older battery by the time you test the 4th cyl the battery does contribute to the amt of indicated compression...if the 152 came from the last cylinder you tested then don't worry about it as that'd be 3% allocated to battery and really within 10 percent. So your numbers aren't bad was there a reason for testing the engine...I.E. poor performance lately or something?

Place socket on breaker bar, take prybar and pry against socket. Watch for shifting.

The intake gasket surface isnt compatible, the wiring is different, etc.

Should work. Same differential and such so why not.