ShawnW

The car is turning out pretty sweet!

The 2.2 has the long skirt pistons and no need for coating. The HLA's are a good and a bad thing. When they are right I have no problems with them and they perform well. Nice and quiet and rarely an issue with them. If they do fail, a little ticking and its easy to change them out in the van.

Just a tip, rotate the rotor so you have enough room behind it before you smack it with a hammer. Theres a spot where the EBrake parts allow just enough room to make it an advantage and much faster to get it out and the new one back in. And yes, tone ring on the actual axle-much easier on the 03's than the older ones with ABS.

Does the tach jump when you crank it?

Verify the fuel line from the filter is going to the top front most connection on the intake manifold.

Just had a phone call where someone was asking how/where the filter is. Remove the glovebox. Its pretty obvious once you open it remove the 6 or so screws and pull it and its rear surround out. Now you have the blower motor, resistor, and such exposed. The filter goes behind the plastic that the resistor block is screwed into and the panel has 4 clips that you can pop off into your eyeball with a pocket screwdriver. Clips are shown in the photo. Then the plastic can slide down 1/4" or so and you can pull on the resistor plug in to get the whole thing to come off. Now grab the lower filter followed by the upper filter. MSRP on the filter kit is $39.95. I have them here for $24.88 from an OEM supplier. These have the plastic pieces. Some people have had success in using furnace type filter media and installing it into the original plastics if your car has the filter "kit" already.

I have handled the situation here. Closing the thread. Further questions from the original poster=please start a new thread. I would recommend doing a search for feedback carb, there are many posts asking how to tell if you have one. Start there and if you do that means you are supposed to have an 02 sensor. If you don't have a feedback carb, remove the 02 sensor, put an oil drain plug or similar in its place to plug the hole and DEQ shouldn't care since its not supposed to be there in the first place.

Here's a tool I like so far and for $44.95 its hard to beat. Subaru Crank Pulley Tool C23-503 http://www.etoolcart.com/subaru-crank-pulley-tool.aspx I have also used the dealer versions they are like this one: http://www.etoolcart.com/crank-pulley-wrench-499977000a.aspx A lot more expensive but it works and its nice to be able to put your favorite breaker bar or ratchet on it.

Exhaust valves are the middle valves on the head.

His final passing thought is pretty interesting too. I wonder if it will be.

I did it and I continue to do them for customers. If you need your harness done let me know. Ive done some and have all the instructions. I am about a month out on them at the moment. The harness needs to be from the same donor vehicle as the engine intake manifold to work with as few check engine lights and problems as is possible. Cams: Remove them from your engine cylinder heads and ship them to Delta Camshaft in Tacoma Washington. Pistons-I wouldn't even bother. The stock ones are fine. Replace the Radiator and the fan sending unit on the radiator while you have it out. I prefer the Small Car conversion parts-more expensive but I think they are worth it. Do the Timing belt and if you need a kit contact me I can send you a good one that isn't expensive. Next month I am doing an 86 Syncro Weekender camper and installing a 3.0 H6 engine. We have a Vanagon conversion forum here on the site, its not very well used but we have one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=42

Side by side, I have found nothing that matches the dealer belt like the Mitsuboshi. It even feels the same during installation-some feel tougher or less pliable but this feels the same there too. I see no reason to not trust it and use them all the time.

You can bypass it from being utilized with the cable being loose and a spring to pull the fork back correctly. But that doesn't eliminate the leak.

I wouldn't even spend the money to have a gas analyzer put in the tailpipe. Its almost 100% certainty. Make sure the shop is qualified to do the repair too. Lots think they can or "need the money" but you need it fixed right.

Do you own a press and a bearing splitter? Factory repair manual? Can you remove and install the transmission/clutch?

Post a want ad in the parts wanted section. Lots of those should be available used.

Congrats! Pretty damn cool. Whats next?

Start with the ones at the bottom of the thread here. It shows a "related threads". From those look at other related ones.

Doesn't look familiar to me.

I think I would just grab a lift gate at the pull a part yard. Sounds like there might be hidden bolts but if you can't see what is holding it after breaking them? Not sure.

Tumble Generator Valves working properly?

I could do that when I was working out of my house. With a shop and its overhead, the prices become pretty typical. I fought it and thought it was pretty unfair until the profit and loss report comes up. There's no reason to cut yourself short 2 hours of labor though in my opinion. If you want to quote high and deduct because it came apart like you say-after you are done-that might be ok but if something goes wrong you are covered.

Why are you removing them? Looks?

Welcome! Glad to see another one here.

Right around September 1 I will have an order thread going.