MorganM

That would be awsome; see what you can come up with for numbers on those parts. If they are cheaper I'll drive down and get them

For sure !_! Radiator, water pump and t-belts would be on the top of my list.

Prolly 2 reasons; one you stated and for redundancy. Belts are a weak point. Getting belts for your year/make/model is easy. Now ask the guy for a belt not by year/make/model... 9 out of 10 I get an eye roll/audible *sigh*/scowl and piss poor service from then till transaction complete. Hard to find good parts guys around here who are willing to work with you.

Yep, sure do. I've had to check the oil upto 5 times right in a row before... Whipe it off good. Pivot it 180 degrees. That helps sometimes. It doesnt have to be perfect; a hair over is better than a hair under

Not at all. Even with a warrenty you are not legaly bound to them for parts or service in any way. It would be illegal for them to force you to use their parts and service. You have the right to use any certified mechanic and certified parts available to you as a consumer. For more details youd have to look up the exact federal law/statute.

All you NEED is the belt running Alt and Water Pump off the Crank. Oil pump is ran off timing belt. I've been running one belt ever since I ditched A/C. Biggest drawback is finding the right belt... parts guys HATE looking for 'one that fits'. And heaven forbid they let you look around their belts behind the counter and spare them the trouble

Call and ask what they charge. As far as difference in tone from turnsignal and lights... that's just a Subaru thing. I have a brand new pump and when I hit the turn signals the pump changes tone every pulse of the light. I think the issue there is somewhere between the alt <-> batter <-> wiring upto ECU. Good to have a spare I'd grab it! New one is ~ $170

I would suspect top or bottom O rings leaking first. Pull it and I bet you'd find out real quick. Beyond visual inspection youd have to have it tested. I'd just replace it before wasting money having someone test it or rebuild it.

Water pump shaft is longer depending on which you have, dealer or factory A/C.

OHMs resistance test. Compare to specifications listed in FSM or other reputable source.

Bolt one on and find out Even if you buy the rims and they have too much backspacing; you could turn them around right here on the USMB.

Soobme is his USMB handle. Contact info: http://www.twbfab.20m.com/contact.html

Ah totally forgot about that, good call Seems nobody is answering their phone today. http://www.headgasket.com/contact.html http://www.paeco.com/gasket.html I'll try tomarrow I guess; they might be closed for the day

Just ready ever thread with "copper head gasket" in it. +5 ft lbs of torque was recomended by manufacture of the copper head gaskets so I'm not worried about studs. Avaialbility might be an issue; only saw EA82t guys talking abuot running them; dunno if any for the n/a heads were made. I've never compared T to N/A heads so I dunno; are they identical head gaskets? I'll find out about availability and price. Then I'll decide on what I'm buying.

I'm down with Felpro; but I wonder if copper headgaskets would be the way to go...

Those prices are from Checker Autoparts. Parts Bin was higher on all of them (oops except pilot bearing)

Sounds like they are just throwing parts at it. Maybe time for a second opinion. Tell them to do an OHMs resistance test on all the injectors. I bet injector #1 is higher than all the rest and higher than specification in their service manual. Fuel pump wouldnt cuase only one injector to missfire. They need to check some other things before tearing it down to fix a valve!

Been pricing out some new parts. Know where I can find cheaper ones? I've compared to Napa, Bumper 2 Bumper, and http://www.1stsubaru.com Checker Auto: Head gasket set by Felpro: $43 Lower-end gasket set by Felpro: $56 Throw out bearing: $25 Pilot Bearing: $14 Ball Joint: $18ea Front WHeel Bearing: $17ea Thanks !_!

Had 200k miles on my Legacy L wagon. I drove it HARD while I had it. Put 100 miles a day on it, mostly on the freeways doing 80+mph. Only things I repaired while I had it were alternator, one wheel bearing, one fuel injector, and few sets of junkyard tires. It was still a strong motor, used minimal oil, used no coolant, plenty of power and I'd say it was one solid Subaru. I'd definatly consider it one of the best built as far as reliability goes.

Correct; and you might even develop a ticking in your hydro-lifters. Higher pressure would indicate a restriction somewhere.

How about using the R180 front and rear? Then you'd have matching final drive gear ratios.

Not necessarily. Its a LONG drive out there for some of us.

Nothing some fender triming cant fix! :cool: Actually I'm just jealouse... I couldnt grow a beard or stashe if my life depended on it

Just a bit leaks out from the where you unscrew the filter. The majority of your oil is below that point in the oil pan. It will stay in there Simply swap filters and you are set. I would recomend 'priming' the new filter by poring some fresh oil in there and letting it soak in then topping off the filter and installing it. This ensures quicker oil pressure on start up with a new filter.