NoahDL88

I have a DL, the loyale transmission, and i swapped in a dual range, there really is nothing to not like, just keep the coolant and oil full, and you shouldn't have any problems. If its carby that can be a bear in the winter when starting compared to the SPFI, and the fact that it only has 3 mains is an issue.

nice rig

Let em know, that i work on fords, and drive a Subie for a reason, at ford i have job security, and with a Subaru, i always get there. with SSR's, locked rear and an EJ22, my car is limited most by the driver, more than the car itself.

I paid less than 75 bucks. although, i don't know what your project is, i'd urge caution that you're not gonna find a better cam for a turbo motor than the stock cam.

I'm also in the middle of the 5 lug swap, just the XT-6 right now, but in secret plans i'll be using the Legacy Turbo front calipers and hubs. I think an aftermarket proportioning valve would be a great idea. Also, if you have the rear discs, which i'm assuming if you are doing the 5 lug then you do, you can use any newer subaru braided steel brakeline kit, just taylor it to your app, forester for the lifted rigs, and impreza for the stock bits.

No dice, those have 5 mains, he wouldn't want that

Is it at part throttle? it could be the torque converter lockup solenoid disengaging and reengaging repeatedly.

This should be in the marketplace, possibly the vendor forum

basically, thats what you need, engine to ECU wiring, a bunch of powers for relays, and a bunch of grounds for everything. You have a wiring diagram right?

You'd have to get and adapter plate, and change the rear end, as i don't think there 3.9 ratio, but at that point, if you're gonna put in a 6 speed, the stock RX motor is a bit, umm, inadequate. so while your at it, EJ25T swap would make it

My 96 imp with the 2.2 has the single port.

Could always leave the hub caps off the winter wheels

But its not the last 4, it's actually based on subaru's first four.

you should be driving with the connectors unplugged.

I've heard good things about DHL

Advancing your timing to 30, i hope you are running 100 octane, knock is gonna kill your motor

You're also gonna want the interior trim bits, or for like 75 bucks you can send the stuff to Bratsrus in Idaho and he'll make the conversion so that you can use your EA-81 controls on the EA-82 tranny, so that it will look stock from the inside.

If you made it rigid, i'd worry about having something that could give when you hit something, at least with the rubber bushing you have some give, with a heim joint if you bump something a little bit too hard its gonna break, and not flex.

Its less a subaru thing, and more of a short piston skirt thing, which, all current subaru's have

At 135-140 you are really at the reliability limit of the 5mt D/R and pushing it further up to over 150 hp you may be getting into replacing syncro's and gears at a rapid rate. Sure, some probably have run higher horse on a EA tranny, but if you want to keep it for a while, i wouldn't reccomend it.

This must be on the 93 leg There is a post on www.Legacycentral.org that has exactly what you want by Laurelthequeen. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=739&highlight=headlight+cloudy

It would probably be easier to get the legacy control arms to work than to fab up a complete new set. I'm trying to figure this out on the wagon, as with the 5 lug swap there gonna be the weak link.

If there not side specific, i usually put them on the inside, as the outside is easier to see, so putting them on the inside, i can be lazy, and not have to check them as often.

You know, i think you're right, what i was thinking was that they are now usually torqued in steps, as opposed to getting to the main torque all in one shot. clearly not retorque.

Its interesting to note, that most new vehicles require retorque of head bolts.