GeneralDisorder

A simple search for "code 35" would have yielded many, many threads on this subject. You did enough research to find out what the code meant.... then just stopped?? That seemed strange to me. One would think you would try to figure out what a "purge solenoid" is and where it's located. You claimed you didn't know where to start but stated EXACTLY where to start.... it's right there in the description of the code GD

Lucas is crap. Personally, my opinion is that if it was meant to be in the oil then they would have included it in the additive package. Only OIL goes in my crankcase. I will occasionally consider flushing an engine with ATF, but that's generally just a idle run up to temp, and then drain again. ATF is extremely high in detergents and will eat away a lot of deposits in abused engines. I have NEVER had to do this with properly maintained engines that have had regular oil changes. My 94 EJ22 has 138k. Just hit 3,200 and I'm about to change the oil. Before I drove back from Reno to Portland on Friday (550 miles) I checked the oil and it hadn't used more than 1/4 of a quart if that. It's all about proper maintenance. And I think the short trips are causing some serious engine deposits in Ed's case. Perhaps why the seafoam is making some difference. Try a flush with ATF and get that seafoam out of there. Doesn't belong in your crankcase long term. Willy-nilly adding of additives change the properties of the oil - usually for the worse. You should see what Lucas does at high speeds . Talk about milkshake! GD

Call one of the dealers out here on the west coast. You won't get the wrong part, and last time I priced a clutch it was only $20 more than Autozone from my local dealer.... GD

Not if you have the ability to make axles for nearly free And shipping from down under.... not cool. GD

The Purge solenoid is bad or the circuit is not complete.... how is this not clear? The solenoid is located on the left (passenger) side of the manifold. Trace the vacuum lines from the carbon cannister back to the manifold. One will lead to one of the two solenoids (EVAP purge, and EGR). Whichever one it leads to is the purge solenoid, and either the connector is bad or the solenoid has failed. Replace it, or R&R the connector. GD

You have to MAKE the axles. There are no off the shelf axles that will fit this combination. You have to cut two axles, and weld them together with a sleeve. Basically you lathe the axle shaft to within a few thousandths of the ID of your tubing and then heat expand the tubing and fit the two halves together. You can perforate the sleeve with holes and weld each one to bond the sleeve to the axle shaft as well as welding the end. But the whole thing must be done carefully to avoid warpage. It's best to turn and balance the shaft once it's setup. Running it through a lathe once it's bonded will do the job too. GD

Those instructions are for EA82's and won't work for EA81's. There's LOTS more work involved with making a 5 lug Brat. Custom axles must be used for instance (EA82/XT6/Impreza are too long), and the strut tops are different as are the ball joint interface for the lower control arms. It is NOT a bolt on for the EA81's, and very few people have done it at all. It is possible, but requires fabrication, and not a small amount of it. GD

Exedy or OEM are what most people use. Both are excelent. GD

One should mention however, that this fact alone has not in any way assisted you in evicting the communist gnomes making weapons in your engine bay.... The EA82T remains a black stain on the golden reputation of Subaru engines. Though the non-turbo's are alright in most respects. I've had excelent results on all my non-turbo EA series HG's by using the Fel-Pro's installed dry. I do take the liberty (as many here do) of increaseing the torque to 65 ft/lbs instead of 57. GD

Yep - they made plows for the EA81's - they were even hydraulic and ran off the power steering pump. Pretty cool - I can't remember who, but there's a member here that found one. Perhaps he can take some pictures for you. GD

There's two bolts that come up from underneath The Carter/Weber is JUNK. Even harder to find parts for than the Hitachi. And no, it's not the same as the Weber DGV. The Carter/Weber is an abomination of a carb. Scrap it, and the manifold too. GD

According to my official Subaru parts quick reference manual, those are definately XT6 2WD front axles Which explains the weird Impreza/XT connection as the XT6 hub accepts the 5 lug style axle... but according to the part number it's an XT6 part. But it very well may have cross-referenced to the Impreza somewhere down the line. Still - an extrodinarily odd thing to have 4 of ...... hope you can figure out what Imp. they fit cause good luck finding anyone in need of 2WD XT6 shafts. LOL. GD

None of those indicate electrical "gremlins" to me. Most of those items are failed components and aren't related. Follow some of the excelent sugestions above and treat each problem as a seperate item. None of those should be ground related but you may need to clean a few connectors - IE: the horns and the SPFI sensors. The clock is the easiest to fix. Pop it out and pop the cover off. Remelt the solder on all the circuit board connections (there's only a few). Clock will work perfectly again. They used poor flux or not enough heat to burn it off when those clocks were made (by a contractor, not by Fuji). GD

We can't diagnose your problem by psychic power.... The car needs air, fuel and spark. Start there and give us some information to work with. TEST something. Obviously you have spark, and air probably isn't a problem so start checking the fuel system. GD

You shouldn't need it - they just end up failing and sucking plastic into the carb. If you are concerned about emissions police.... don't worry it will pass without it. I've ran numbers with and without and the difference is negligable. GD

Good luck finding a manual rack - would have to be from a STRIPPED DL. Even most DL's had power steering. But really you won't notice any difference as the power steering pump has almost no drag. You can gain more power by having a switch to turn off your alternator. Add to it that you have a turbo car with a turbo engine cross-member. Fitting the manual EA82 rack isn't a simple bolt in because the rack is smaller in diameter and uses different mounts and brackets. To get a manual rack you WILL have to pull the entire engine cross member from a donor as on manuals the rack only slides out through the end rather than dropping out the bottom as the skid plate mount is welded in place. Once you modify your turbo cross-member to accept the manual rack (I suspect welding might be involved here, so removal of you cross-member will be required) you will need to have the car aligned For the cost involved, and the labor needed to make it work it's just not worth it. The power steering system is an insignificant load on the engine - you won't even notice it's not there. I've run with the pump disconnected on my lifted wagon many times and there's no difference - even with the EA81's HUGE pump. Just makes it harder to steer. GD

I read all the threads on Legacycentral I could find, and lots more on Nasioc. Not a single report of any problems. And there's lots of modified turbo guys over there so if anyone was going to find it they would. Even lots of WRX owners are using it as they find that after only 20k or 30k they start to get grinds on fast shifting. 135k, and 14 years on my Legacy's MT - it was grinding when shifting fast from 1 to 2. Not bad, but I could feel it. And I couldn't get into 1st without being very careful while rolling. Maybe in the end it will shave a fews tens of thousands of miles off the life of the front diff, but really what's smooth shifting worth to you? And frankly is grinding the syncros to dust any better of a failure than having the front diff grenade at 300k? I know these things will last for 500k if you baby them but I don't own an AWD 5 speed so I can baby it! Screw that - I want it to shift awesome and feel amazing right up till it blows the ring & pinion right out the side of the case! When I'm done with the car I want it to be "all used up". Used tranny's aren't that expensive anyway. GD

None up here either - bought the stuff in Reno while visiting. But he's in New York so I thought I would mention it.... :-p GD

I'm out in West Linn (Oregon City) about 20 miles south of Portland. I have a 90/91 stock Panasonic 80 watt with the front AUX port that's currently in my 94 wagon. I'll let it go for $40 if you like. It's in good cosmetic shape although it does need some of the bulbs replaced that light up the buttons. Works great though and will drop right in. I also have the DIN pocket that replaces the CD player and gives you some storage space under the deck (has a flip-up door, and came on models without a CD player). With this setup you don't have to do any wireing (direct plug compatible), and you don't need a CD player as you can just plug in your MP3 player or portable CD player directly to the deck. Also gives you a storage pocket and looks stock so no one will want to steal it GD

When I say they are worth something, I only mean "more than they would cost at a yard". I got a complete set (retractors, and male-bits) from a fellow board member for a very reasonable price. Although this was a few years ago.... I won't say how much other than to note that it was under a "bill" if you know what I mean. They still reside comfortably in their cardboard packing box as I have not got my Brat to a state of "finish" where I deam it worthy of them. Same with the jump seats..... someday As far as the radiator - if it's an EA81 then it's an '82 or older by the size of the radiator cap.... and it looks too short to be an EA81 unit.... my guy feeling is that it's an EA71 radiator from the late 70's Gen 1 era. Is it a dual core? All EA81 radiators are dual core so if it's single then we know it's for a Gen 1 (I have no idea if Gen 1's were dual also). GD

They can go from annoying to REALLY bad in a very short time. I had one lock up and wear through the pressure plate diaphram.... not good. You might want to learn how to drive without a clutch now if you plan on not replacing it for a while. Subaru clutches are easy. I would just do the whole thing and not have to worry about it. GD

Pep-Boys had the Pennzoil, and the Castrol... Any Redline retailer can order the shockproof. Baxters Auto Parts here carries it, and there's a few other places the carry Redline and could get it if I asked. But yeah - this isn't a one-stop shopping experience trying to find this stuff unless you don't mind paying an assload in shipping It's WORTH IT though. Trust me. You won't beleive it's the same tranny. A guy at Legacy central actually had his father ask him if he swapped the tranny or had it rebuilt.... that's how different it feels. Feels like a new car every time I drive mine GD

It's entirely possible that I understand more than you think Jack. It's also entirely possible that I have rebuilt injectors and bench tested them. I was a diesel mechanic in the Army. There are mechanical injectors, and there are electro-mechanical injectors. Both have moving parts that wear, and both will develop leakage and spray pattern problems from said wear. GD

VERY, VERY carefully with very expensive drill bits. That's hardened tool steel my friend. Good luck. PS: I am soooo happy I'm not you right now. GD

No - go back and read your FSM's young-un! GD