GeneralDisorder

Look for rust mostly. And body damage from the top of the cab, back to the tailgate. The front end and the doors are easy to find since they are the same as the cars. 82 is an odd year - only one with chrome bumpers, antenna on the drivers side, red gauges, different grill and headlights, and the only year with the third eye. There's not a lot of info on off-road mods to be found out there - stick around here long enough, and you'll get the idea. Lift kits are availible, but unless you can do some fabrication, or know someone who can, there's not much else that can be done easily. Installation of a 5 speed D/R from a newer soob can be done - bigger tires / rims, etc. If you can fabricate, or know someone who can, the possibilities are endless. No lockers are availible - you can weld the rear, and pull an axle when you take it off-road, or LSD's can be had for a price, or sometimes at the JY - they are pretty rare tho. There's really nothing that can be done with the front diff without dissasembling the transmission (it's inside), but it's possible that a LSD could be installed - although I have yet to see or hear of one. Overheating isn't a problem with the EA81's in Brats - they are as much oil-cooled as they are water cooled, so even without coolant at all, they are difficult to overheat. If it's real hot outside, you might blow a headgasket, but that's about it. With a good working radiator, you shouldn't have any problems at all. GD

Sometimes an exhaust leak can sound like a rod knock... something to look for anyway. GD

Try another autozone man - that bytes. Either that, or replace the cup with one from another bad axle........ just a thought. GD

Answer: No - you cannot get Subaru OEM new axles - except now and then one may show up on ebay..... Many people have good luck with http://www.cvaxles.com Only $55 - good deal. GD

Don't bother - the cable is only $18 or so from the dealer, and only takes 1/2 hour to change. Most likely, the cable is starting to wear out, and fray on the pedal end where it makes a sharp bend into the engine compartment. If allowed to continue, the cable will snap sometime when you push it in. The lubricant used in the cable is a dry wax-like lubricant, and I doubt anything else will work properly. If the washing of the engine compartment made it worse, than I would hazzard a guess that the cable's outer covering has already broken either at the firewall where it makes that sharp bend, or the cable was improperly run over the steering shaft instead of under it wearing a hole in the rubber cover and allowing water and stuff into the cable. Normally a washing of the engine compartment would have no effect on a good cable, thus it should be replaced. Re-lubing isn't really possible, or worth the effort for a cheap part like that. GD

I've never seen one with this "washer" problem you speak of scooby.... maybe that's an EA82 thing? I've seen MANY bad EA81 distys, but all were bad from bushings - lots of side play, but never one that hit anything.... curious GD

You need one from the EXACT year and model to meet CA requirements I'm sure..... the main problem with rebuild kits, is they do not address throttle shaft wear. You could just get a throttle base from roobuilders for around $40 after your core, and then rebuild your existing carb yourself, or locally.... the disty shaft can be rebushed locally I'm sure - you just need to find a disty shop like this one: http://www.philbingroup.com These guys have done several for me at $35 for a rebush. Real quality work. They are in Portland OR, so a bit closer than CCR to you.... The hesitation you speak up is most likely vacuum leak from worn throttle shafts. Very common on Hitachi's GD

The shaft of the disty needs to be rebushed..... is this a 2WD or a 4WD? The 2WD disty is made by nippondenso, and these wear out much faster. Well - not really, actually they wear at about the same rate, but the ND mechanicals can't stand nearly as much wear as the Hitachi internals. The problem comes from the variation in the air gap of the rotor inside the disty. The Hitachi design can withstand a LOT of play. I've seen some that were so bad you could move the shaft side to side about 1/8"! The ND will exhibit rapid decay, and almost no noticeable shaft play. Mine went bad in the space of 1 week. It went from perfect, to jumping to 7000 RPM at idle, with a very loud buzzing noise comming from the disty itself (you could actually feel it). It was my only car at the time, and after checking into many options, I found a local shop that will rebush any disty for $35. Their site is here: http://www.philbingroup.com Thet did an awesome job for me - 24 hour turn around. Just pop the cap off your disty, and try to move the shaft - if you notice ANY (and I do mean ANY) play on a ND, then it's shot. I was very sceptical when I first took my disty apart to look, as the play was hardly noticeable, but it was there. When I got it back from the shop, it was solid as a rock - no play AT ALL. Almost 100% positive this is your problem - the disty is the only thing on your car that can cause this. A bad coil won't do this - as the tach signal (and what fires the coil), has to come from the disty. The cheapest I found rebuilt distys, was from roobuilders in Denver - $145 for a complete Hitachi setup.... not cheap. Especially when I just needed a $35 rebush. GD

I think he said .015 was ok, and the intake still bolted down. Might have to enlarge the holes if you take off more. GD

Lot's of drum brakes are self adjusting - all of the Ford Aerostars for example.... I happen to know because my parents own two of them. Most any newer car with rear drums are self adjusting - makes for a bigger pain when changing them. Your right about the easy disc swap - that is nice. Not sure if it was intentional or not, but I suspect that there was probably some japanese EA81 with rear discs from the factory.... GD

They are simple because they are not self adjusting - and thus, a pain in the butt. Swap out to rear discs - you'll be happy you did. GD

The Weber is easy, and good for probably another 25 HP along with a free flow exhaust. After that, it's time to open up the engine - higher cam being the biggest benifit along with decked heads. The EA71 (1600) pistons will also increase the compression slightly. Everything together, can yeild around 150 HP or so. The EA82 is a lot of work, and will only give you another 15 HP, and considerable complexity besides. Also has the disadvantage of requireing timing belt changes every 60k miles, and they have problems with cracking heads, and blowing head gaskets. Not a good choice for an off-roader. GD

Gen 2 brats were 82-87 EA81 Hatch was 80-89 (US only) GD

It's not just the lift blocks - there's the strut towers, and the steering linkage to think about too. Plus with 6", some reinforcing is generally put between the blocks.... With 6" you'll want to be running 31's. I'm running 28's with 3"...... Otherwise - sounds good. Try to get like an 88 or 89 if you get a hatch.... newer is always better. And 85+ will have the hydro engines. GD

Late 80's EA81 Hatch that's already a 4 speed 4WD. These have better departure angles, and the shortest wheel base of any of the EA81 series cars. Haveing almost no sheet metal behind the rear wheel is nice for deparure angle. The covered cargo is also nice... Second best, or possibly just as good, and a bit cooler, is a Gen 2 brat that's been bobbed - same deal here with the departure angle. Lift it, put in either an 81/82 4 speed D/R, or a 5 spd D/R, and drive it like you stole it..... Parts are plentiful, and the cars are very capable off-road when properly outfitted. Won't take much investent besides lift and tires to get going off-roading. Makeing it streetable with the big tires requires the 81/82 4 speed, or the 5 speed, but those are direct bolt-ups. GD

If it's a 1980, then it has the 1600 - that's got to go if you want big tires, so number 1 will be to pull the whole drivetrain (single range tranny is useless too), and put in at least an 1800, and a D/R. That in itself is no small task, as the engine cross-member has to be modified to fit the larger engine, or a cross-member from an 81 GL has to be found.... easier to modify yours. Biggest lift I've seen on a Gen 1 is 3" - contact Mudrat79 for details - he's lifted at least one of them. Anything higher than that has not been done to my knowledge... probably has, but I just haven't seen it. Well - without using a toyota frame anyway..... You should really start with a Gen 2 Brat. The Gen 1's aren't well suited to this sort of thing. You'll end up spending more money and time than if you just got a Gen 2 for a bit more money, and started with an 1800 D/R, and just added a lift. The Gen 1 is cool, but it's harder to lift, and the drivetrain isn't powerfull enough, or capable enough to put big tires under without major modifications. I'm not saying it can't be done, but the investment of time and money isn't worth it, when Gen 2's can be found on the cheap. And since the intention is to beat it up off-road anyway..... doing that to a Gen 1 is not looked upon highly. Even doing that to a Gen 2 isn't highly regarded, but it's done sometimes. GD

For one - if it's a 1980, it can't be D/R, as they didn't come out till 81. It could be an 81 with a late 80 build date...... Lifting a Gen 1 is difficult - the rear end is rather problematic as I understand it.... also, if it does turn out to be an 81 GL D/R, then that is a rather rare vehicle, and you should endevour to keep it stock, and restore it. No one has done the divorced transfer case on a Gen 1. While it could probably be done, all of the R&D would have to be done. It's not a simple copy operation, since the Gen 1 is quite different. GD

When you can sell them, they generally go for around $150 to $300 depending on condition, etc. For $300, I might be convinced to pull mine and all the sending units for it...... GD

I'll be up for something soon. Probably in March sometime. Looks like the 29th of this month I'm headed down to Medford to get my new bumpers and visit the southern OR crew. So in March I'll have to show off all my latest work on the wagon. Eric, Mike - a HP meet would be great! I'm in if the date doesn't overlap my ARMY obligations. GD

When I get back to the shop to finish up the 78, I'll take a look. Hard to tell - maybe I'll get lucky. GD

Yeah - you have to pull the whole thing. The tranny can't be dissasembled without pulling it first. Don't bother dissasembling it either - just get another. That's a headache you don't want to go through. GD

Yep - put it on straight. GD

My Brat does that sometimes - just slip the clutch and get it rolling a few feet. Should be able to get it to come out. The gears are worn, and are binding a bit inside the tranny. Don't force it too hard or you could break off the shift fork inside the tranny. GD

Your going to ruin a perfectly good turbo Brat with a freakin carb? Shame on you. Find another non turbo Brat to carve up with your crazy ideas. GD

Sure - it will fit. But the problem is not the dash. ALL of the sending units are different - even the one IN the gas tank. The wireing harness is completely different, and besides all that, the digi's from 83/84 are notoriously bad juju. They will blow up if you even look at them funny. Seriously - don't bother. GD