GeneralDisorder

It is - I drove it up there, and just as I pulled into the driveway, it died! As if to protest what was about to occur. The rock I had jamed in the choke, which had stayed put for at least 50 miles, had decided to fall out. I relpaced it with another from the driveway, and drove it on in. But look how many other cars will benifit from it's parts! At least three that I can count - maybe more. It was a pretty good sport about the drive out there. Was about a 45 minute drive, and I decided to open it up on the freeway and see what it would do. I hit 95 on the speedo. Todd - I payed closer attention this time to the tranny, and how it was shifting - sounded good, felt real smooth - downshifts like it's supposed to. I did not notice a single thing wrong with it. GD

Got the 78 moved to it's final resting place in my friends garage, and dissasembly began today. These are just a couple pics from earlier in the session. It's actually much more torn apart right now. Windshield is out - interior except the dash is out. Engine is almost out. All doors are removed, etc. http://usmb.net/gallery/album143 GD

Don't forget the trailer bearing...... GD

The difference is not just the size of the joints - the 4WD shaft is 2mm larger in diameter. Joint is also bigger as noted above. GD

Sounds like an exhaust leak if it comes and goes like that - check for holes in the header, and for bad gaskets at the heads. GD

EA81 heads won't crack from just going into the red. He's probably correct, although I haven't seen the technical bullitin myself. I have run my EA81's up to the red before with no problems. GD

Yeah - disty's go quick at the junk yards. The funny thing is that the only thing that really ever needs replacing in them is the ign module - and that's not even very common. The bushings in them can be rebuilt. You should call CCR - they sell rebuilt disty's, and you could probably get just the ign module from them. The whole disty from them is only like $150 or so, so the module should be considerably less than that. GD

Yep - I noted that swaybar difference when I did my 4WD conversion. My 2WD 5 speed wagon had the "small hump" bar, and the 4WD has the "large hump". They appear to be the same diameter otherwise. Interesting that you note that the auto's also have the small hump - I think it's actually due to the exhuast used on those models, and not 2WD vs. 4WD or anything like that. Really conveinient in this case tho eh? Glad you got it put together. Ah! I see you noticed the paint like I did. They seem to have used one color paint for 4WD, and another color for 2WD, and Auto. I noticed this as well. Also - you will find paint on the strut springs too - same colors. Purple seems to indicate a 4WD part, while yellow indicates a 2WD or Automatic part.... very interesting. GD

Awesome find on the carb. Alts are usually $15 around these parts, but hey - as long as it worked, it's worth 20. You think his sounds beefy.... ya ought to hear mine... hehe GD

I would love to see your piston pin pulller garner - I'm going to be doing this soon. GD

Just wait - you'll be getting pics from him soon with my new rear bumper - swing out tire rack, reciever, etc.... GD

Ah! - good to know Ken. Seriously tho - the 2WD swaybar is a different shape around the exhaust - might just solve your problem, or at least help a bit..... GD

Looks like your hanging up on the swaybar there - try a 2WD EA81 swaybar - they have a smaller "hoop" for the exhaust. Might just solve your problem. I don't think they are any thinner..... You are correct that the tranny tunnel is smaller. I believe this is the same problem I ran into when attempting my 4WD swap in my wagon, and the same problem that Matt ran into when swapping the 5 spd into his EA81T wagon. The sheet metal is a different part number - specific to the year AND the trans. GD

Try running redline gear oil in it. It may help it a bit. Good stuff. As for rebuilding it - well it's not a small job. There's many special tools needed, and the amount of parts in there is just insane. Many hundreds of parts - all need to be inspected and guaged. Leave that to a pro unless you are certifiable like me. GD

Vacuum routing is very specific to model and year - if you want to get it right, I'm afraid you'll have to find an FSM for that. Mostly you can rip out everything - just make sure you don't have to have an under-hood inspection. Even the AIS can be removed or blocked off. I was just at the emmisions place - without the AIS, cruise HC's were 150 - with it, they were 80. 220 is allowed, and my engine has 130k on it - so I can remove them and still pass. GD

The "passing light", "cyclops eye", "center lamp" whatever you call it is a light that is under the emblem in the center of the grill. GL models had them.. I don't think it was specific to 4WD or anything - just GL's in general. I have a blue 1980 or 81 one in the garage if you want one for your car - you would have to find a grill for it tho. Your car may have a check engine light - or it may not. Depending on weather you have a feedback carburetor or a standard. If you have a feedback style, then you would have a little "ECS" in the gauge cluster somewhere that would illuminate to indicate a fualt. A good way to see if you have a feedback system or not is to look at the exhaust - if you have an 02 sensor where the y pipe joins at the cat, then you probably have a feedback system. However - a cursory inspection of an 80 or 81 guage cluster I happen to have sitting here didn't show me an obvious ECS light.... GD

Yes - but you don't need the "big" breaker bar, or the cheater pipe. You could even use a socket wrench to put the pressure on it, and I always carry a hammer. I carry everything but the kitchen sink when I go into the yard. Most yards I go to have wheel barrows, or they have "yard cars" that can transport my big stuff for me. GD

There is no need to swap the clutch at all - the 4WD clutch will work fine with the 2WD tranny. As I said before - no mods are required AT ALL - no clutch changes - no cable differences. You will be running with the larger 4WD clutch, but that's just fine - better actually. Also - if you were to swap the clutch, you would want to swap the flywheel with it - the 4WD and 2WD flywheel's have different mating surface sizes.... I have done this swap - 2WD into a 4WD..... it's still driving to this day. But you have already said you weren't going to do this..... mute point I should think. GD

Passing lights were on GL models - came on 80 - 82. They were called "passing lights" early on, but by 82, were renamed "center lamp's" go figure. His 81 DL shouldn't have one..... GD

Well - glad to hear your not gonna make it 2WD! The Hitachi is the better of the two carbs, and you also would have to swap the manifold.... and the carter weber is potentially computer controlled, so you might have to swap that too. The carter webers are more difficult to get parts for, and being a single barrel, they aren't a very good choice. You can get a rebuild kit for the Hitachi at Napa for around $35 - if your adventurous you might fo that route. The best thing to do with the hitachi, is send it to the scap heap, and get a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb. If you don't have to pass an under hood inspection, this is really the way to go. A brand new Weber 32/36 goes for about $325 for the complete kit, but if your mechnically minded, you can save two third of this by getting a used or rebuilt carb, and buying the adaptor and air filter seperate. This conversion has been covered many times - do a search on Weber DGEV, or 32/36 I'm sure you will come back with a number of good resources. GD

Could be the ign. module in the disty. Test it. GD

Yeah - I noticed that. Nowing nothing about VW busses, I looked at your sig, and clicked on a link that would take me to the 78 model year stuff - and there I saw the 46mm one. Figured that wouldn't work, and that you must be talking about older or newer - so I looked around, and got the 36mm one by clicking on a link to the older bus parts.... Thanks for the link - I probably could get one local for cheaper, but that would mean I would have to drive somewhere, etc. I'm lazy. GD

That was my thought - I'm tired of carrying such heavy tools. That little guy looks a lot lighter than my huge breaker bar. I'll just use my socket wrench to put pressure on it. Also, it will provide a better angle on the nut - my socket can slip off sometimes. Doesn't seem as likely with one of these. GD

Actually - sounds like both the bearings and the ball joints. The ball joint will cause you to be able to "steer" the car with the go pedal. Gas steers one way, brake steers the other. But a bad ball joint alone would not make a whining noise. That's front wheel bearings when you say "it stops whining when I steer one direction" Napa has front bearings for $12 or so - ask for the "other brand" their premium ones are like $22. You need 2 per side - inner and outer, so 4 total for the front. They are pressed in, and are supposed to be installed with a press. You can do it with a punch if your careful - it's not fun tho. GD

Yeah - I've seen the pics of that one Mick - pretty cool. Wish I could find one. Seems rather useless tho - as the hauling capacity of the Brat is pretty small. Towing capacity isn't great either. I suppose they did it just to say it was a 5 speed. GD