GeneralDisorder

northguy - there ALL from redline (new kits anyway) - that's the manufacturer.... Seriously tho - the kits suck - not worth their cost in my opinion. Get a used one and rebuild it - or buy one that's already been rebuilt and grab the air filter and adaptor plate seperate. Only thing you get with the kit is really crappy instructions that are next to useless. Also - I scanned them, and they are availible on my web site if you want em anyway..... GD

Is the heat sheild in place around the cat? Otherwise - I would try another Y pipe - that sounds bad to me.... GD

Check you U-joints in the rear drive shaft first off - probably not the problem, but an easy thing to check... Next check the fuild level in t Otherwise - the front diff has nothing to do with the 4WD shift mechanism, so that's out. I would have to say if you can't find the source of the problem outside of the trans, it's probably time for another tranny. You *could* tear into it - my guess is it's a bearing failure on the 4WD auxilery shaft, or the transfer case portion of the trans.... Next check the fuild level in tranny - if it's low then you most likely have already done serious damage by the sound (smell?) in this case..... Check the rear diff out too - crawl under the car when you get that smell, and try to isolate where the smell is comming from.... GD

The 2WD to 4WD disty swap is for EA81's - and even for them it has come into question. Skip (I believe) looked it up in the FSM, and the 4WD is actually a better advance curve. But I think on your EA82 they are the same - I don't think there's a difference at all, since the 2WD and 4WD have the same brand of disty.... GD

I emailed him for some specifics a week or so ago cause I'm planning on doing this myself - haven't heard anything from him yet..... he does still lurk around on this board now and then..... GD

Yes - you can just reseal the pump - ask your parts stores for the oil pump seals..... if done right, this can often fix the problem. GD

There's supposed to be a gap?!? DOH! GD

My guess on the EA82 is yes - but without actually trying it, I don't know for sure. You may have to turn it around backwards - or use the PS from an XT4.... GD

Bad right axle - clicking while turning left means a bad right CV joint. The clunking is probably the same thing - the joint is a bit loose, and the change from acceleration, to no acceleration causes the clunking noise. Time to change out your axle. GD

ooooooh! I remember someone specifiying what that was a long time ago - control module for something - I bet skip knows! My guess is power mirror control unit.... probably wrong tho. unplug it and see what stops working? GD

Maybe you toasted the tranny input shaft or something - stripped it out? I don't know - have you pulled it apart to see? GD

Subaru calls their six an H6. And there may be an H6 forester eventually - who knows - the H6 isn't turbocharged tho, and the 2.5T in the 2004 is more powerful anyway.... GD

There's numerous places that sell them online - or any place that sells Redline equipment can order one. Just do some searches on google. Should be between $35 and $40 or so. GD

Shipping shouldn't be over $30 via UPS. GD

Too bad - if that color scheme was done well like you said, it might be pretty cool. I would drive it! But that's just me - I'm twisted that way. GD

Yeah - gonna be hard to find a used radiator in your neck of the woods that isn't a rust ball - your choice is new, or get one of us west coasters to send you a used one - I might do it for say $20 over what it cost to get one + shipping, since they are pretty easy to pull, and I'm at the junk yards fairly frequently... GD

Yes - EA71 uses the same Weber kit as the EA81, so it should work the same. GD

Yeah - there's just tons in the Junk Yards for cheap - EA82's are what you see the most in the JY these days.... Down here - water pumps are $10, Alts are $15, etc.... GD

78 should have the starter in the center - you say drivers side.... might still be it tho - hard to tell. You didn't actually move it? So must be engine related..... At that temp check to see if the water pump was frozen solid - maybe you just fried the belt.... GD

I'm considering this swap as well. The carb is either a Holley 5200, or a weber 32/36 DFAV - depending on who made it. The choke is on the other side - so it has the added benifit of not being close to the disty on the EA81. It uses the same adaptor plate, and the weber square filter is availible in both heights for about $15 online. If you get one from a ford, the throttle linkage is not removable, so you must either cut it off and weld on a regular one, or change out your throttle cable to one with the right end for that carb..... The carbs are internally identical in design - in fact the rebuild kit from weber is the same part number - the 5200 is just turned around a bit, and has a different air cleaner opening.... Apparently the 2.3L ford engines also use the exact same jets as the 32/36 kit for a soob...... not sure about the 1.6, 1.7, and 2.0 engines.... GD

Use your immagination - take a trip to home depot, and check out the plumbing isle..... GD

He'll make it - and even if he's not on time it won't be the end of the world. I've been late comming back from leave - sure they will give him a rash of sh!z, but in the end there's really not a lot they can do. Slap on the wrist at the most. Glad to hear he's back on the road - I know his service to his country means a lot to him, and getting in a spot like that with your commander isn't a good way to start off comming back on from leave - but what's a soob lover to do? It's not like he can leave it sitting somewhere.... Best of luck Jared.. GD

Yes - find an EA81 to beat up - not a historic peice like the 75. That was the first year for Subaru 4WD in case you didn't know. Lifting it would be nearly a sin (and also pretty difficult so says Mudrat79 - who's done at least one). GD

As for corrosion inhibitors - there's zinc in the anitfreeze. Anytime you have two dissimilar metals and a liquid you have a battery...... the zinc attracts the corrosive properties of the battery effect so as not to ruin the soft aluminium. For this reason, the green style stuff should be replaced every other year EVEN if it tests good with a hydrometer, as the zinc will be gone by this time - they put zinc plates on outboard motors, and large ships with steel hulls for this same reason..... GD

Actually - unless you have messed with the carb internally it's not likely to be off.... more than likely your fuel pump can't keep up, or your filters are plugged - try a new air filter too - this may help a bit. If these cheap things don't help - rip the thing off and replace it with a weber. GD