GeneralDisorder

I think the EJ series had both types - but yes, at least some of the EJ's are VLSD's - great for on-road - but useless for off-road as I understand it. GD

There's no need to make them exact - in fact the Aussies often enlarge them to better protect the boots while off-roading. GD

Or some tin foil - but don't do that if you like driving without flames. On the other hand - Skip sets his passenger seat on fire for heat - so I suppose it's all relative..... GD

Dude! You gonna have John lift it for you? Portland eh? So are you gonna go play with the Hatch Patrol with me? I'm in West Linn..... Maybe we could find some local mud? Would love to have someone around here to play with. If your intention is crazy off-roading - welding the rear is the way to go. Cheaper too. LSD's are nice for a daily driver tho. GD

The Turbo and 4WD clutches are the same as I recall. It's the XT6 clutch and flywheel that is stiffer.... Should be exactly the same as what you have. GD

Friend of mine bought a car on eBay, and had it transported from wisconsin to oregon - cost was less than $700. That was last year. And it wasn't a tiny car either - about the size of a soob - 98 Audi A6 Quatro. You just have to look around - search for the best price. GD

He speaks the truth - down here there's a place - I've talked to them about it. They can rebuild just about anything. The price is on the order of $25 per lock. Probably better if you remove it for em. GD

Yes - it can pass emmisions. I know several People in WA state that have passed with Weber's. GD

No 88 GL-10 auto's do not have LSD's - at least not stock. You want to look for a GL-10 Full Time 4WD Turbo 5 speed. These and the RX have the LSD. GD

Oh yeah - my 15x6's stick out a good 2 - 3" past my fenders. Not a problem here in OR - no one cares (even tho I think it's technically illegal....). GD

Don't mess with the carb - get a Weber. GD

Man - you have to think "outside the box" we can prime our filters just fine - turn the car on it's side.... DUH! GD

I'm running 15x6 - my spare is a 15x7. Depends on what tire your running really. I would imagine a 15x8 or even 9 would probably work, but go as narrow as you can for your tire of choice - helps to keep the tire seated well, and prevents bead popping on the trail.... also keeps some rubber between your rim and the rocks.... GD

My vote goes to sloppy throttle shaft bores - common on the hitachi's, and cause them to suck air - lean out and die. Nothing to do but rebuild the carb (and bush the shaft) or get another one (Weber time). GD

All the drain plugs on my soobs are stripped - I just use a pipe wrench on em now! Works great - can't be stripped. GD

Your correct - I can't *assume* anything - but like any mechanic, I'm going with the most likely problem first. I have no reason to question the float level, and I've also heard many times here on the board from people who have this same problem - and adjusting their float did nothing to fix it. Couple that with much reading on Weber carbs noting that with our stock fuel pumps we are running the wrong pressure, and since they are 20+ years old, this is even further reduced - the fuel pump looks like a very likely target for replacement. Also add to that the fact that I have heard NO reports of incorrect float levels on factory built Weber's - I think their quality control on something like that is probably very good - considering their reputation in the market. I think we would be hearing Jeep and Toyota people screaming bloody murder if that were the case. GD

I have an air suspension trouble shooting manual... no air suspension car tho. If you like I could get it duplicated at a copy place. It's the video reference manual - has lots of diagrams and pictures..... GD

You can "mod" the carb to open mechanically. Should be in the USRM somewhere.... GD

The hatch struts should be availible through http://www.thepartsbin.com for around $20 each brand new..... GD

Well - our systems are quite different - for one I'm running a Weber and a different front fuel filter (clear type - aftermarket). And our pumps are probably different models - since your's is an EA82, and mine's an EA81. It's hard to say exactly what your problem is torxx - heck it's hard to say *exactly* what mine is - I just *feel* that it's the pump, as that's the only thing that I haven't replaced with new parts..... the chances of my float being off are extremely slim in my opinion, as the carb came directly from Weber in the kit for my exact engine model.... GD

Awesome! Lookin good. Hey - how can a man email you these days? I emailed a while ago about the SPFI swap but never got a reply - you using the same account as you have listed here? GD

Awesome - I'll be very interested to hear if this solves it. It was a big concern of mine at first, but it takes a VERY hard corner to lean out on my wagon, and after the big tires and lift, I don't take corners fast enough to notice it anymore. I suspect that eventually I'll end up replacing it anyway. GD

I have NO idea where that came from - and if you would like to ask around, I have made it VERY clear to several people (including mods) that I don't wish to EVER be a mod. sheesh.... You do NOT remember correctly - in fact - your wrong on pretty near everything in this thread.... Oh - and for the sake of not hijacking this thread further - I quit this silly conversation. GD

Sorry to say there is no quick answer anyone here can give you - you'll have to tear it apart. Just a hint - pull the engine. It's much easier than pulling the tranny if you don't have a lift. GD

Man with 45 posts shouldn't be so rude to man with nearly 2000, and other man with over 500. We are after all - only trying to help this individual. opps! my bad - OVER 2000. GD