GeneralDisorder

Skip - on EA81's I have only seen 1 or 2 wire sending units...... on the 2 wire ones, one of them IS the ground, as it's on the mounting bolt like you say. It was my understanding that the low fuel light was lit by the guage when the resistance got in the right range..... Am I smoking my shirt?!? GD

I want scientific proof - not demostrations - write a paper and submit it to a journal - how many degrees do you have in physics and chemistry? mechanical engineering perhaps? These are the people I will believe. Maybe you and all the guys who get 100+ MPG from their special carburetors can get together and come up with some degrees in these fields..... 99.9% of all the information in the world is availible ONLY in written form - learn to love it AND use it..... Leaded fuel was availible here in the early 80's. Maybe not where you live - that I don't know.... Here's a quote from the EPA's web site to this effect: GD

Not many questions are actually "stupid" - we just get tired of answering the same ones day after day. Thanks for using the search feature - it's greatly appreciated... Welcome to the board - you have one of the best little cars Subaru ever made in my opinion. I have a friend with an 84 wagon (same engine - original too) with 320k on it.... GD

No less than 90? Good Lord! But that is completely wrong.... The descripincy of the FSM could be due to it's age. There are two ratings of octane for gasoline - research octane number (RON), and motor octane number (MON). These are placed into a simple forumla to come up with what you read at the pump. Right now, that formula is a simple average: (R+M)/2. However - it was not always this way. Back in the eary 80's when your car was produced, the availibility of leaded gasoline meant a different formula for calculating the resulting "pump" octane of the fuel..... Here's a link for ya'll: http://www.csgnetwork.com/octaneratecalc.html It explains some key points such as: Here's another good page: http://www.leeric.lsu.edu/bgbb/7/ecep/trans/b/b.htm said there: I can give you more links if you like...... and your EA81 is nowhere near 9.3:1 BTW, and 87 octane should be more than adequate. If you do as they sugest, and: I think you will come up some interesting results.... GD P.S. - Stupidru - lose the attitude - it's not neccesary here, and it looks bad for someone with a low post number such as yourself.

I would start by checking the linkage - basically if it isn't the linkage, then it's internal to the tranny, and you would have to split the tranny open to figure it out - easier to replace the tranny... GD

Gen 1's DO have a vin on the dash - drivers side - just like any other car still made today... Gen 1's also have it on the firewall stamped into the metal - passenger side. And that number your found - sounds right - sounds like a Gen 1 vin to me anyway.... GD

Why is it that everyone must run the highest octane even tho they don't need it? Can someone please explain why otherwise intelligent people *refuse* to belive that you should run the lowest octane you can without pinging? The lower the octane, the more combustible the fuel is, and therefore you will get a more complete burn, and better mileage..... just because you have been brainwashed by the fuel companies into thinking higher is better does not make it so..... run what the manufacturer recommends for your engine..... GD

Yeah - and you don't want a lifted turbo anyway - even if you replaced the tranny with a D/R (messy cause it's an auto to start with...).... turbo's are not any help off-road. And the added complexity mixed with mud and water is also not a winning combo. GD

The fog lights were almost certainly a dealer install. It's a SOA "upgrade" of sorts - much like the dealer installed CC, or A/C. That switch on the dash is the same as the Passing light (center lamp) switch, and the older style CC switch (also dealer installed). In fact - if you had an 82 with the center lamp, CC, and the fog lights, you would have all the switches filled up down there.... GD

Screw the engine swap - Kill the neighbor - sounds like more fun to me..... That's really sad - great to hear that he didn't accomplish anything tho - since your still working on it. I think if it were me, I would park a couple more ugly cars down there just to mess with the guy. I'm just vindictive that way I guess. GD

Ah! Well a Loyal is a horse of a completely different color. Do a search on here about EA82 swap into EA81 cars - lots of people have done it. And yes - it will bolt to the tranny - EA81 and EA82 are the same bell houseing. Still - for off-roading (if that's your intention), the EA81 is simpler and IMHO, the better choice. GD

Only thing I can say is that I wouldn't personally want the push button 4WD. You could always swap in a 5 speed D/R though. The push button ones are only high - no low range. And I don't like the vacuum actuated 4WD systems - I like a regular stick to shift in and out of 4WD - there's nothing like that satisfying clunk when you go in and out of 4WD - and the vacuum ones tend to have more problems with shifting in and out of 4WD. Least ways I've never heard of any problems with the manual shift style.... You should also know that the loyale's were a lot more stripped down than the older GL and GL-10 models that were around before the legacy line started. The loyale was a budget ride..... not a bad car - just lacking in some of the nicer features of the older GL's. I'm guessing they are somewhere between a DL and a GL for feature level.... GD

That's true - I guess he could be talking about a loyale.... didn't think of that. If that's the case, then your swap will be easier. You need to tell us what model the 93 is..... GD

It can and has been done - lots of custom fab work involved. You will have to use the EJ tranny, or have an adaptor made for it..... driveline will have to be made the right size for that..... custom engine and tranny mounts. Custom axles are one of the biggest things you'll have to do if you use the EJ trans. Big wiring mess too... GD

Hhhmmm - niether have I that I can recall - but CC was a dealer option too - I believe there was a kit floating around on the board a while back - SOA dealer CC kit for any EA81.... So it's possible for one to have it I think. I suppose that you can't count that since it's not a factory install..... but then neither were the fog lights I dont' think.... Yeah - seen a number of disty sheilds myself - what I find often times is that the clips on the air box are busted, and that's why they are gone..... GD

The double pulley alt is likely from an EA82 - all the later EA81's (83+), and the EA82's (turbo and non), use the same alt. Depending on where the AC is on the EA82, it will have double or single pulley's. If someone got one from a JY, then that would explain it - or if they bought a rebuilt, and it came that way.... It doesn't have every option - in fact it's missing quite a few..... CC being the most obvious that was most definately an option - either dealer or factory - both styles were possible on EA81's. There's other options that it may have missed out on because it's an 89, and that's the last year they made hatches. Nice looking hatch tho - and looks like the rust is repairable too. POR15 time..... GD

There isn't one if you want to do the job right. That was my point I think..... Maybe you could put a bigger screw in the adjuster to get more adjustment for the lights. It's not that hard to dissasemble the front end and fix it the right way tho - just pull all that stuff off, and bend the metal back to where it's supposed to be..... check on those adjustment screws first tho - they may have been pushed through as previously mentioned. GD

Huh - wonder what I did right? Mine starts right up and idles fine in cold weather - I pump it twice, start, hold it at about 1500 RPM's for 10 seconds, and it will never die after that..... I think it's all in the choke adjustment and the idle mixture.... You guys running used ones or rebuilt ones? Mine was brand new - so maybe that accounts for it? BTW - we have SOOOOO much snow here - haven't seen this much for 10 years probably! GD

Yeah - what Ken said - I get about 210 miles to a tank ON the odometer. My tires are 215/75r15 - up from 175/70r13's (car was 2WD...). Which yeilds a 26.7% slower speedo. So 210x.267=56.07. So my actual mileage is something like 265 to 270 miles to a tank..... not horrible considering the big tires. Works out to something like 23 to 25 MPG or so.... GD

Awsome - I'll file that one away for future reference. Sounds like it could be the switch like I thought. I remembered when I addressed a similar issue with my Brat that all the diagrams I could find showed an extremely simple start circuit. I think if I were to do this, and was going to be wireing anyway, I would also figure out a starter lockout circuit into the system to keep people (or myself!) from running the starter while the engine was running. Probably could hook it to the oil-pressure idiot light if so equipped.... GD

Dissasemble the whole front end, and straighten it back out - sounds like you've bent the underlying sheet metal holding all that stuff in place. Since all that metal is covered up with plastic and lights and such, a BFH, or a tree and a come-along is probably the best way to get all that stuff re-aligned. I can't tell you exactly how to remove all that stuff, since I am an EA81 guy myself, but if you got the grill off, and a new one on, I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out. Get the bumper off, and the headlights and the grill etc, and I'm sure the problem will present itself right away.... GD

About the only way to get the thing out in one peice is to cut all around it with a utility knife. Take your time, and don't force it or you WILL break it - they are pretty fragile. For installation, you'll have to either get a new gasket ($55 from jc whitney last time I looked), or have it installed by a glass place that can do the "liquid" type. Personally - I like the real gasket myself. Don't even try to get it out without destroying the gasket - it's impossible as far as I can tell. GD

All the wiring diagrams I've looked at show pretty much nothing between the ign. switch and the starter.... should be pretty easy to trace down with a MM - you have a manual with wiring diagrams? Start tracing that wiring..... could be the switch itself. GD

Yep - temp won't change till you start leaking and lose enough coolant to change it. However - the bearing can fail totally and lock up - if that were to happen the belt would slip and cause an awful ruckess - probably would overheat at that point. Get one from a JY - they take about 5 minutes to remove - 10mm socket, and a screwdriver and pliers for the hose clamps..... you can get new gaskets but I just use RTV - seems to work fine. Look for some at the JY that don't have any perceptible shaft play. You can get em for about $5 probably, and I would get a couple - that way you have a backup. Make sure upon installation to have the belt at the proper tension - too tight will cause bearing failure - too loose will cause belt slippage, and possible overheating. Oh - and before you go changing water pumps - check out that belt. The way you worded it "every few seconds" sounds beltish. I've had belts that sqeak because of fraying in one spot... GD

WOW! Don't try that with an interferance engine! At least the soob was forgiving enough to allow you to try again. Nice work - glad to hear it's running. GD