nipper

Ask yourself if you want to do this again in a month. Odds are all the seals are the same age, so very likely if they started leaking, its only a matter of time before they all do. Yes replace the pump seals. Subaru seals may last (at 60K changes) two timing belts, but rarely a third, as you can see by the leaks you have. nipper

On the positive side your engine will have one or two really clean pistons. You have a blown Head gasket. Do not over heat the car, otherwise you may end up with scrap. Also do an oil change with the HG. nipper

how many miles on it, we REALLY need to know that to help determine the noise. Remove one spark plug wire at a time with the car running (be careful of the zappy thing, or at least have a freind watch so he can laugh) The noise should change once you disconnect the wire to that cylinder. If it does its rod knock. nipper

What he said but it needs an oil change. Also a compression test before you do any real driving. nipper

No no no, the front sensor is the heart of the FI system. The rear one compares with the front one. Aftermarket sensors can be slow to react, and can cause issues from none, to constantly throwing CEL, to running issues. nbiiper

From a trucker site SHAKE AND INSPECT. Firmly shake each end of a driveshaft, trying to move it vertically and horizontally. There should be no slack. Carefully check for loose, damaged or missing parts. Also look for signs of cup movement within the retaining hardware. Nearly all these situations would require U-joint replacement.

Well check the bulbs with an ohm meter. Next check the wire in the ECU connector to make sure its good. I cant find my book, so i am not sure if the CEL light signal at startup comes from the ECU or from the ignition switch or some other circuit. Check the connector at the ECU to make sure all the pins are making contact. nipper

Replace it. This is a failure mode for these kind of sensors. Subaru sensors are fairly robust, but there is always one . The body actually works its way loose from the crimp with time ( i used to test these buggers for a living) You can go aftermarket with this one if you want, but if the original has lasted this long, i would replace it with OE. nipper

Check the replacement bulb to see if it burned out. nipper

You need an o2 sensor. They only are supposed to last 100,000 miles, but seem to last between 100 and 180K. Odds are its the front sensor, as the rear sesnor tends to have a shelterd life. This sensor needs to be a OE sensor. The 2nd one can be aftermarket. So how goes the torque bind? nipper

Compass needs a power and a memory. nipper

That looks like a factory Unit. i used a aftermarket unit from ebay. http://www.cipausa.com/Autodim%20Files/36400,%2036401,%2036500,%2036501%20Instructions.pdf I see they re wrote the instructions to make it a biit easier. I had to glue the button om my windsheild. It took me two tries to get it right. The first time i did not do prep well and it fell off. Another hint is that life gets much easier if you put the terminals out of their little plastic connectors (i used a tiny screwdriver). Mine came with the UV sensor, which i sort of find useless. nipper

There have been a lot of issues with dexcool, with failed intake manifold gaskets. http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/gm_dexcool.html Just search dexcool failures on google. nipper

You have the power feed, the memory, the temp sensor and the UV sensor. There are also the fuses for the two power feeds. There is also the ground. nipper

Ive done it in my 1997. If you go to http://www.scoobymods.com/ They have a step by step method in one of thier posts. The toghest part of the entire install for me was running the wires around the dash up to the A pillar. Its a really tight space. You need a powerful flashlight and some flexability to pass the wires. The second toughest is getting them through the firewall. nipper

well the 2000 has 4ft more of torque. The HG issue really depends upon how you like your arsnec. The internally blown HG will tell you really fast its blown. the external leak may take a while to notice. SOHC engines leak externally. One of the quirks of subarus is when they leak, they dont necassarily leak on the ground. Fluid lands on the exhaust pipes and gets burned up. Hg issue, figure about 15% of 1996-1999 2.5L engines have internal issues. I dont have a figure (nor has anyone made an educated guess) of the 1999-2003, but i think its the same number. nipper

hehe either way the head gaslet has to be replaced. nipper

Blu (97obw) has heated seats nipper

The ABS unit for traction control has that ability. The standard ABS unit does not. nipper

It was more likely the belt let go and the seal was going. If it truly was the seal that blew out, she should have the PCV valve replaced also. If the PCV valve is stuck it can build up pressure, but usually it will push out the dipstick. The price is actually not a bad price. How many miles are on the car? I would also replace the tensioner, idler and waterpump and be done with it. nipper

Got a paicture of this damage? nipper

www.cars101.com they have details on all years nipper

I'am assuming you mean the core in front of the radiator (condenser). You can replace it your self, but make sure thats what is leaking and not one of the steel lines. You may need to replace the receiver drier, as the desicent inside the drier starts to disintegrate when exposed to air after being in a sealed ac system for so long. Next you need to pull a vacume on the system and then fill it with refridgerant. I would replace the parts myself then let a shop fill it. nipper

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1836 http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041 nipper

Mopre likely the fact that everything is beant at that one wheel is causing you the drifitng. The way the tires are wearing is more dangerous then anything else. Why do i get the feeling that this car is not all that safe to operate in its present condition? Be careful. You got a pic of it by any chance, im curious to see how bad it is. nipper